any new info?

 

has any1 dynoed these on a full bolt on lt1 yet to get actual #s???

 

curious as well.

 

Should be soon, I am putting LT's on the car as we speak.

 

A stock lt1 doesnt have enough stroke in the crank for a valve to fall in the cylinder, promise.

 

Even if it doesnt,putting each cylinder at TDC will make things easier. some of the valves will slip down and trying to keep it up and put the spring on at the same time is harder if it were to drop alot more that the 1-1/2 it does with each cyl at TDC.

oh and BTW ill be going to the track this wensday and now that my misfire problem is solved(still need wires though) ill post up my numbers. of course i havent had time to put the new trans in yet and that isnt going to be until next spring but ill post up the numbers anyway. my best times so far are in
my sig and its an all bolt on car. i just recently added the random tech dual cat y-pipe so we'll see how it goes..........

 

I love this thread... no drama just good info. So anyways for the guys who used checked geometry, what size of pushrods did you end up with? where did you get them from?

Ohh and when are we all gunna get some real track number comparisons?? I read the whole thing but I dont think I saw one who has a track comparison.


I could just buy the adjustable pushrod and get my own but here in Hawaii everything is slower than granpa trying to figure out my Harman Kardons Remote control.... even if I get the right lenght it may take two weeks to have them delivered.... since I can not really count on the speed shops here to have everything I need on the spot. Even the GM dealer once ago insisted my car didnt have rear shocks.... My last stop at the autoparts stored involved a girl calling her manager to find out how to spell "Valve Stem Seals"

I am not ashamed to say I know nothing when it comes to valtrain, springs and all.. but thanks to you guys I am learning.

I was thinking of using the Beehive springs with the 1.7 Scorpions.. the GM guide Plates... etc etc etc... logic tells me I will need a diff lenght pushrods. I am the guy who likes to take care of the details first and buy the parts later...

Can anyone give me an idea of what a good pushrod lengh would be?? Ohh I am using the larger studs too... whats the best kind?

My car is in serious need of tender care and I do have cash now... I will even get new paint on her...

any help greatly appreciated.


Marvin

 

Hey guys, after running my Scorpions for less than 1,000 miles (Maybe even 500 miles) I have them for sale. These are 1.7 ratio, 3/8" stud. I ran into some valve float issues in the upper Rpm's, so I removed them back in April I think it was.... I'm going with a new engine this winter, and will be sticking with my Comp 1.6's.

Email me if interested. I'll take $185 SHIPPED to your door to the continental 48 states...

 

Spartus, sorry to hear about your disapointing high RPMs valve float. why didnt you continue using the Scorpions after a good valve spring replacement??

I am curios as for what the Scorpions Shortcomings maybe. Since I am not gunna race my car I ask out of curiosity only. Obviously the Scorpions were not damaged else you wouldnt be offering for sale but I am curios as for why you decided not to continue using them.


Marvin

 

So i went to the track that day like i said i was and still ran a 13.3@103 on a 20. 60ft
of course i decided to run my nirtous the follwing friday and here are the results with the spray. all runs were with the fuel jet being 2 steps rich and without tuning

50 shot: 1.9 60ft 1/4 12.98 @ 107 mph

100 shot: 2.0 60ft 1/4 12.74@ 110 mph< ran out of nitrous around the 1/8th mile and spun after the 60 ft

found out the next weekend with a fresh bottle i decided to go somewhere with a friend of mine to do some tuning. turns out at the track on the spray the car was running lean and had 5* knock retard. i hope to make it back there with a fresh bottle,my et streets(that should drop those 60fts into the 1.7s) and see if i can pull a high 11...on a 100 shot....

 

Marvin, I'm running the Dual Comp 987 springs with damper, set at 1.750" installed height. I was running really close to coil bind too, after adding the 1.7's. I purchased some Beehives and was going to swap over to those but I cannot get the locks to release from the retainers. They appear to be welded together by some unknown force. I used tried a socket and a 5 lb dead blow hammer, and cannot break them loose. So when I remove the heads in the spring to put onto my 383 I'll have to put them under a press, and snap the locks loose. What a PITA!

And NO, there is no damage to the rockers. They look brand new still. The roller tips still don't even show any witness marks from rolling on the valve tips.

$185 shipped and they can be yours!


EDIT: Just received a PM, they may be sold.

 

ttt. Any new info on this topic.

 

Has anyone else had any issues with pushrod length. That seems to be the only real concern with doing 1.7RR's on stock cam. The rest of the 1.7rr's install should be exactly like doing a 1.6 RR install. Someone speak-up.


I'm goin after that all stock 6 spd bolt-ons record ! I thought the record for a 6spd bolt on car was 11.90's ???

 

The only problems I know of are:

Pushrod length
Proper guide plates
valvecover clearance

For the bolton record, we have Several B-bodies (Impala SS's) running 12.3X's with stock heads & cam, just bolt-ons...... So for F-bodies I'd think it would be even lower than 11.9X's, since they weigh in about 600lbs less.

 

Last time I checked I don't think the 6spd record was much better than 11.80's at best, but if were talkin about automatic's your right I believe that is somewhere in the mid 11.50's I could be wrong but I don't think those numbers are too far off...?