Did ya get the rockers?

 

Yeah thanks for the info. I keep that in consideration when i do mine.

 

Got the rockers!!!

They look really nice, and I must say that the build quality seems to be outstanding. A very nicely done piece. Now all I have to do is get my stinking **** POS to run right so I can finish tuning and slap these puppies on!!! I use that term loosely though. Maybe I should say carefully assemble them on the car and check proper valvetrain geometry first??

 

You just got them now! You should have got them last week?

 

I actually got them......I think it was on Monday. I was gone (again) from Sunday through Wednesday, and I believe Monday is when they got here.

 

Everyone is talking about checking valvetrain geometry, which sounds like an excellent idea. However, to those of us that only have experience swapping rockers and setting valve lash, is there a good tutorial on changing springs, retainers, valve seals, aligning guide plates, and most importantly checking geometry? Im sure all of this can be done by someone with some mechanical know how, but I need the info. Thanks yall.

 

Hmm, I really like this thread. Since my car is now parked for winter I'm going to order some 1.7's and a K&N FIPK kit. What do you guys think I will be at for rwhp? Current mods are:

Jet-hot LTs into 2.5" I-pipe to a fallen apart dynomax superturbo muffler, and a pulley on the crank.

I have no problems beating pre-2000 LS1s, and 02 transams I pull in 1st and 2nd gear, but 3rd, 4th, and 5th are dead even.

Adding 1.7s, K&N FIPK, and a 3" X-pipe with 2 dynomax bullets should be a nice increase in power? Is looking for 30rwhp with those mods asking too much?

 

How noisy are these 1.7 RRs?

 

Yeah i think it would be safe to say you would get 30rwhp with those mods. The 1.7's are estimated to get you around 15-20rwhp. The k&n fipk should get you around 7-10 and the true dual should add around 7rwhp. But that also could go up or down depending on how good your current catback is.

 

ANY NEW UPDATES?

 

The last issue of Car Craft magazine I recieved had a 4 page article on how to check and set your geometry.... There is also a tutorial on this on wither Cranes or Comps website.

YES, it is important to have your geometry set properly... Mine was out earlier in the year and caused premature valve float because it was pushing the valves down on the outsides of the stems, flexing the valves. Not good on the valve guides.

simple method is to remove a rocker arm, paint the tip of the valve, reinstall rocker arm and crank the engine over several times. Remove rocker arm, and note the wear patter on the valve tip.. You want to be almost centered on the tip of the valve with the wear pattern just slightly towards the intake manifold..

If wear pattern is to far towards the intake manifold, your pushrods are too short... It wear pattern is out towards the headers then your pushrods are too long.

Good luck.

 

by wear pattern, what exactly do you mean, what would it look like? if you painted the tip, wouldnt it probably look like a thin line through the center of the tip all the way around? im very new at this but very interested also. thanks.

 

Yes, it would be a thin line from one side of the tip to the other.


in the picture you can see that I need shorter pushrods.

 

shorter pushrods, so the wear pattern is closer to the middle? if you need shorter pushrods, how do you know how much shorter to go?

could you use a magic marker for the valve tip?

 

Best way is to get an adjustable pushrod from a place like Comp Cams and find out how short you need to go. Otherwise, there are typically pushrods available off the shelf in .050" increments.