327rwhp 350rwtq, full bolt-on's , with the 1.7's

Problems
1.Bends pushrods like toothpicks
2.Cracks stock spring retainers(four have cracked so far)
3.HP falls of hard at high rpm's,(maybe valve float)

96SilverRam- stock pushrod lenght is fine
Bolt-on record Fbody LT1-
-M6 is 12.29 at 112mph,held by Roadtrip120
-Auto is 11.94 at 110mph held by Sar2k

 

What do you consider high RPM ? I turn mine 6100 usually..

 

Sounds to me like you are getting into COIL BIND if breaking the stock retainers, and bending pushrods. 1.7's alone, won't cause that if geometry is ok, and coil bind is non existent.. You should take a MIC and check things out.

I'm now running 1.7's on my new 383 with a Comp 503, 224/230 @.050. I'm running a total of .570"/.575" lift. For springs I went with the 918 Beehives, and set them up at 1.790" intake, and 1.800" exhaust.. I shift at 6,500 rpm.. No float and pulls stong till it shifts. Only 500 miles on the combo to date, so maye raise the shift points even more. I'll find out more at the track.

BTW, I sold the 3/8" scorpions and went with some 7/16" Comp stainless rockers.

 

How do you guys expect to use guide plates on stock rocker studs? The stock studs are press in style I was under the impression that guide plates can only be used on screw style. Can someone enlighten me?

 

My 96 WS6 car was factory screw in studs (3/8). I upgraded to the ARP 7/16 screw in stud. Hope that helps

 

The stock studs are screw in. BTW, I have scorpion rockers and I put down the numbers in sig. I don't have a dyno tune, throttle body or a pulley on the car either. Now if I only I could get the car to run good numbers at the track.

 

I don't have the 1.7's, actually still have the 1.6 RR comp cams and with all the bolt-ons ( NO PCM tune or cut-out ) I put down 323 rwhp / 343 rwtq.

I'm pretty sure with the cut-out open, Ed Wright Dyno-tune & 1.7 RR the car should make 330 rwhp / 350 rwtq no problem...

 

wow, did not know that thanks guys. Hey BTW will 7/16 studs screw in without machining?

 

Yes, the screw in part is already 7/16 on the stock studs.

 

wow talk about digging up an old thread lol

 

Let's dig this old thread up and see how many more people have decided to go with 1.7 roller rockers on a LT1.

 

I didnt use the 1.7 rr on my LT1 with a hotcam i used harland sharp 1.65 rr and i had to go with .50 shorter pushrods when i checked the wear pattern on my valve tip and could have went with .100 shorter ideal would have been .75 i fudged .25,I would assume going with the 1.7 ratio you would atleast need a .100 shorter i know with the stock pushrods i was wayyy to the exhaust side of the valve tip.I also have a set of hardend push rods one piece stock length for 50 bucks shipped whoever is interested

 

I'm still on the 1.7 rr. for over a year now, and i am abot to be running a custom cam from BRE with the 1.7..

Stage II LE heads
Custom BRE cam for 1.7 rr

dyno numbers next week, I will repost then

 

So, what your saying is the pushrod length should be 7.120" with 1.7's and the stock cam, instead of the 7.200" length.

 

Anybody wanna straight up trade my 3/8" 1.7 scorpions for comp 1.6 pro magnums?

Getting ready to step up cam sizes a LOT and don't wanna have to swap springs. Shoot me a PM.