Just finished my 1.7 RR install
#31
Originally posted by SAR2K
Good deal Matt, I'm glad you've got the 1.7's working!!! I know the 1.7's helped my Bolt-On combo out a good bit. Enjoy buddy!
Steve...
Good deal Matt, I'm glad you've got the 1.7's working!!! I know the 1.7's helped my Bolt-On combo out a good bit. Enjoy buddy!
Steve...
#32
Originally posted by drewstealth
How much more stress do these put on the engine from the 1.6rr's. I was thinking of getting the 221/227xe cam and with 1.6rr's the lift is .542"/.560" what would it be with 1.7rr's? Would it be to high? I was gonna install the rr's before i put in the cam because i won't have enough time to do the cam. So now i gotta try to decide on 1.7 or 1.6.
How much more stress do these put on the engine from the 1.6rr's. I was thinking of getting the 221/227xe cam and with 1.6rr's the lift is .542"/.560" what would it be with 1.7rr's? Would it be to high? I was gonna install the rr's before i put in the cam because i won't have enough time to do the cam. So now i gotta try to decide on 1.7 or 1.6.
.576in .595 ex
I think your heads might need machine work hitting numbers that high but im not sure. Someone else will probably chime in with an answer on that one......
Me, im going to keep going with the bolt ons till there is none left. im leaving the cam change at the end with the plans for the new motor.......
#33
Originally posted by 94GrayV6
See his post on the first page. He gives the rundown on everything you need. BTW the part # that reads 102128210 should be 10212810.
I just went through and totalled it all out and with shipping and tax it ends up being b/w $450-470. Plus you have to either buy or borrow a valve spring compressor. They are like 24 bucks from a parts store.
Not as cheap as everyone thinks, but still pretty cheap for ~30 rwhp.
See his post on the first page. He gives the rundown on everything you need. BTW the part # that reads 102128210 should be 10212810.
I just went through and totalled it all out and with shipping and tax it ends up being b/w $450-470. Plus you have to either buy or borrow a valve spring compressor. They are like 24 bucks from a parts store.
Not as cheap as everyone thinks, but still pretty cheap for ~30 rwhp.
Thanks, i must have been typing too fast.....
#34
Originally posted by MattysTA
you can get the rockers from here:flatlander racing
you will also need to get springs that will handle atleast 550 of lift. hardened pushrods and gm performance guideplates(the ones they use on the zz4 motor) i have the part number here somewhere......
you can get the rockers from here:flatlander racing
you will also need to get springs that will handle atleast 550 of lift. hardened pushrods and gm performance guideplates(the ones they use on the zz4 motor) i have the part number here somewhere......
where do you get those springs? and how do you know the specs on them?
where do you get hardened pushrods?
#36
Taken from thunderracing.com:
"The 7/16" stud will allow less flex in the valvetrain than the 3/8" stud, which will allow you to obtain maximum performance from your camshaft."
Matty, I would also like to know which pushrods you used.
cndctrdj, thunder racing has those springs for 89.99.
"The 7/16" stud will allow less flex in the valvetrain than the 3/8" stud, which will allow you to obtain maximum performance from your camshaft."
Matty, I would also like to know which pushrods you used.
cndctrdj, thunder racing has those springs for 89.99.
#37
When you get a cam are you gonna keep the 1.7rr's or go to 1.6rr? Because i'm just gonna do the rr upgrade untill i have time to do the cam swap. But i don't really wanna have to get new 1.6rr's when i swap my cam again. So if your gonna keep those rr's which cam are you gonna go with?
#38
Originally posted by drewstealth
When you get a cam are you gonna keep the 1.7rr's or go to 1.6rr? Because i'm just gonna do the rr upgrade untill i have time to do the cam swap. But i don't really wanna have to get new 1.6rr's when i swap my cam again. So if your gonna keep those rr's which cam are you gonna go with?
When you get a cam are you gonna keep the 1.7rr's or go to 1.6rr? Because i'm just gonna do the rr upgrade untill i have time to do the cam swap. But i don't really wanna have to get new 1.6rr's when i swap my cam again. So if your gonna keep those rr's which cam are you gonna go with?
As for me, I'm pretty happy with the lift on XE 221/227 cam and I'll be doing the cam and 1.6 RRs in a couple of months
Does anybody know the max lift stock heads can take without machining
#39
matt, i know you recommend getting the 7/16 studs, but since im on a really tight budget, im wondering if the stock studs will work as long as you dont over do anything... im wondering if it would be possible to keep the stock studs and pushrods (i have the hardened 94 stock rods, not that it would help too much), and upgrade the springs to the combination motorsports (forget the prt#, but they can handle up to .600 lift without machining) and upgrade the rest of the valvetrain where it needs to be touched? is this setup possible and if so, can i expect it to last awhile until i can afford to upgrade anything else (if i even need to upgrade)?
#40
also i plan on keeping the stock cam for as long as i can... again i just dont have the money to do everything i want. so im just gonna do the cheapest and easiest mod(s) that will give the most gain. thanks again.
#41
Stock 94-95 lt1 cams lift is .450 .460 with 1.5 rockers.
1.7 rockers makes the lift on stock cam .510 .521
I don't know much about this, but would the new 1.7's mean that my motor would rev higher? Would I need a custom PCM tune?
I know that with the hotcam you raise your shift points to 6100-6400ish. Would you do the same with this?
1.7 rockers makes the lift on stock cam .510 .521
I don't know much about this, but would the new 1.7's mean that my motor would rev higher? Would I need a custom PCM tune?
I know that with the hotcam you raise your shift points to 6100-6400ish. Would you do the same with this?
#43
Originally posted by RallyRed701/2
matt, i know you recommend getting the 7/16 studs, but since im on a really tight budget, im wondering if the stock studs will work as long as you dont over do anything... im wondering if it would be possible to keep the stock studs and pushrods (i have the hardened 94 stock rods, not that it would help too much), and upgrade the springs to the combination motorsports (forget the prt#, but they can handle up to .600 lift without machining) and upgrade the rest of the valvetrain where it needs to be touched? is this setup possible and if so, can i expect it to last awhile until i can afford to upgrade anything else (if i even need to upgrade)?
matt, i know you recommend getting the 7/16 studs, but since im on a really tight budget, im wondering if the stock studs will work as long as you dont over do anything... im wondering if it would be possible to keep the stock studs and pushrods (i have the hardened 94 stock rods, not that it would help too much), and upgrade the springs to the combination motorsports (forget the prt#, but they can handle up to .600 lift without machining) and upgrade the rest of the valvetrain where it needs to be touched? is this setup possible and if so, can i expect it to last awhile until i can afford to upgrade anything else (if i even need to upgrade)?
Intake .542" / 1.6 * 1.7 = .576"
Exhaust .560 / 1.6 * 1.7 = .595"
Should be able to barely squeeze by
#45
Hmm.... is there any reason why I couldn't do 1.8 RR? COMPCAMS has one for the SBC. Can our stock engine and stock heads handle 1.8 or would the piston say howdy to the valve? And can stock heads handle that much lift? Just thinking about my next bolt on as soon as I get these freaking headers installed.
1118-16 A,B Chevrolet V8 265-400 7/16" 1.8
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Pr...hStainless.asp
1118-16 A,B Chevrolet V8 265-400 7/16" 1.8
http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Pr...hStainless.asp