LT1 Based Engine Tech 1993-1997 LT1/LT4 Engine Related

Just finished my 1.7 RR install

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Old Nov 9, 2003 | 07:21 PM
  #136  
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NICE!!!! Very nice with that slipping trans. I just got my rich condition figured out (PCM) and once I get a new computer in and the car tuned in, I'm going to swap the rockers in and do some more tuning so I'll have a good gain shown on paper.
Old Nov 9, 2003 | 08:35 PM
  #137  
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Exclamation

Can you use NSA 1.7 rr's with an XE 230/236?

Thanks!
Old Nov 10, 2003 | 06:58 AM
  #138  
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Originally posted by FacelessZ
Can you use NSA 1.7 rr's with an XE 230/236?

Thanks!
Yup.
Old Nov 10, 2003 | 08:00 AM
  #139  
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has anyone done it yet? I have the 230/236 .510/.520 (with 1.5's) and 1.7's would be a great way to get some more lift out of this cam...but has anyone run this cam with them yet?
Old Nov 10, 2003 | 08:07 AM
  #140  
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Originally posted by magius231
has anyone done it yet? I have the 230/236 .510/.520 (with 1.5's) and 1.7's would be a great way to get some more lift out of this cam...but has anyone run this cam with them yet?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe RealQuick tried it, and his springs didn't hold up. If the 1.5 lift is only .510/.520, then with the 1.7 the lift will be .578/.589. Just make sure you have the springs to support the lift and you should be fine.

On another note, this being the early stages of 1.7's being run on the LT1, has anyone heard of any study of long term valvetrain wear effects and possible failure of various components due to the valvetrain geometry change with the 1.7?? I know that it's not THAT drastic of a change moving from a 1.5/1.6 to a 1.7, but I'm kind of left thinking "Why not until now?"

On that note, my 1.7's should be going in within a couple of weeks.
Old Nov 10, 2003 | 08:30 AM
  #141  
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I know the hydra-rev kit isn't necessary with our cars...but would something like that help minimize the valve float and help support the 1.7's?
Old Nov 10, 2003 | 08:40 AM
  #142  
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Originally posted by Fastbird93
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe RealQuick tried it, and his springs didn't hold up. If the 1.5 lift is only .510/.520, then with the 1.7 the lift will be .578/.589. Just make sure you have the springs to support the lift and you should be fine.

On another note, this being the early stages of 1.7's being run on the LT1, has anyone heard of any study of long term valvetrain wear effects and possible failure of various components due to the valvetrain geometry change with the 1.7?? I know that it's not THAT drastic of a change moving from a 1.5/1.6 to a 1.7, but I'm kind of left thinking "Why not until now?"

On that note, my 1.7's should be going in within a couple of weeks.
Sean is right, I did try it. Power fell off rapidly after peak which showed I was having issues. Before with the 1.6's it pulled strong up top and didnt fall of near as quick. Definitely a spring problem in my case.
Old Nov 10, 2003 | 09:07 AM
  #143  
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i didnt feel like reading everything, but i was wondering what i would blow up by putting some 1.7RRs with a CC306. (230/244)
.544 .576 lift with 1.6 rockers

or even better the GM847 232/242 .575 .595 lift with 1.6 RRs

Last edited by xxsaint69x; Nov 10, 2003 at 09:14 AM.
Old Nov 10, 2003 | 09:09 AM
  #144  
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Wow, if you could pull it off, you'd be looking at .578/.612. That would be mean, but maybe a bit much on the exhaust lift for a hydraulic roller.
Old Nov 10, 2003 | 09:56 AM
  #145  
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Hydra-rev kit with 1.7's? Anyone have anything to add?

Would utilizing 1.7 rr's become more beneficial after stock heads were ported? I saw some people reply that 1.6's are good for stock heads, but would 1.7's become more useful on ported heads?


Last edited by FacelessZ; Nov 10, 2003 at 10:34 AM.
Old Nov 13, 2003 | 07:58 PM
  #146  
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Thumbs up

1.7's worked great on my stock heads & stock cam. Now with ported heads and aftermarket cam, they're iceing on the cake.
Steve...
Old Nov 13, 2003 | 09:15 PM
  #147  
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Originally posted by SAR2K
1.7's worked great on my stock heads & stock cam. Now with ported heads and aftermarket cam, they're iceing on the cake.
Steve...
Looking at your sig, makes me glad I'm putting them on my car!!!
Old Nov 14, 2003 | 01:56 AM
  #148  
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Wow...nice times. Yep, i'm definatly gonna get the 1.7's.
Old Nov 14, 2003 | 11:15 AM
  #149  
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Those of you installing the 1.7's with GM guideplates should be careful that your pushrods don't hit the guideplates. The extra angle gets the pushrods aweful close to the guideplates. Especially after you AIM the guideplates properly. I had to turn all of mine to the right to line the rockers up with the valve tip. After doing this my pushrods were rubbing... I had to have the guideplates clearanced(slot made deeper)...........

This is not just a BOLT ON, and OFF YOU GO type of mod. I checked my geometry when done too, and had to go with a longer pushrod. I ended up with a 7.250" pushrod.... I think Manley makes 7.230" pushrods for around $79 which would be a better fit.

Good luck guys and remember to check those things.
Old Nov 14, 2003 | 11:40 AM
  #150  
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Originally posted by Spartus
Those of you installing the 1.7's with GM guideplates should be careful that your pushrods don't hit the guideplates. The extra angle gets the pushrods aweful close to the guideplates. Especially after you AIM the guideplates properly. I had to turn all of mine to the right to line the rockers up with the valve tip. After doing this my pushrods were rubbing... I had to have the guideplates clearanced(slot made deeper)...........

This is not just a BOLT ON, and OFF YOU GO type of mod. I checked my geometry when done too, and had to go with a longer pushrod. I ended up with a 7.250" pushrod.... I think Manley makes 7.230" pushrods for around $79 which would be a better fit.

Good luck guys and remember to check those things.
Good information. It's probably going to run vehicle specific as there's a couple of people just throwing on the parts and having no problem. That said, it's definitely a good idea to at least double check to make sure that everything lines up right.



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