went to the muffler shop today and found this....
silly mistake. i can't remember what hooked to this(bottom of intake), AIR? do i just plug it?

 

also ran into another snag,

you could already tell that the tunnel brace wasn't gonna fit after the pipes were hooked, arrrrgh!

now i have to figure this part out...

 

Is this on the front driver side? Are you talking about the ground strap? It connects to the frame just rearward of the radiator. I have mine hanging on the motor still and I can check tonight. Let me know if this is what you are referring to.

 

That is from removing the air pump. I have a big bolt in mine to fill it. Just need to block it off with something.

 

the hole on the bottom of the intake. im pretty sure the aIR hooked into it. need to know if i just plug it

 

Is that the intake elbow? or the ram air assembly? Intake elbow has that donkey kong looking thing to quiet intake noise. I run a 1LE intake elbow.

Don't think the ram air assembly has anything under it.

 

im gonna head to home depot after work today and get some kind of plug.

it is the bottom of the SS air intake. i have a k&n intake coming so I'll probably have to plug that one too.
i still have one of the smaller AIR connections to seal on the side of the intake manifold too

 

You will want to turn those exhaust clamps so the stud portion is pointing up so you don't damage them from road debris. Just a casual observation. I know those band clamps are expensive...

 

Been awhile since I posted a follow up on the motor swap with hot cam. I have had random gas smell and a multiple misfire code thrown. I traced the code back to either the fact that my ignition coil was coming loose or my battery was on its last leg? I tightened it all up and got a new battery( mine old one was 6yrs old). Im guessing it had more to do with a loose ignition coil. Drove around an entire afternoon and no SES lights.

I went back and double checked everything again and while probing around the passenger side I noticed the wiring going to the evap canister solenoid purge valve had been nibbled on by a mouse. One wire going into the connector is barely holding on. Could this be whats making my evap canister not function correctly, causing the gas smell? If so, after repairing the connection, would I also have to replace the evap canister at the back of the car?

 

Posting here so I can remember what ive done over time....

Repaired two nibbled wires, one for the evap and the other was the iat sensor. Got rid of my intermittent ses light. I still havent put many miles on it in the last two years, probably just over 3k. Only have two issues to deal with.

1. I've searched and cant find any other people with the same issue. During the summer, if I put my AC on while at idle, the car nearly dies. Seems to be a vacuum leak somewhere? The car drives fine with it on, but will almost die at stoplights. I have checked everywhere, seems im missing something? I need to notate my rpms at idle, perhaps I do have a leak somewhere, or does anyone have another possibility?

2. Heater issue. Havent really driven the car much during the winter and only have heat for a few minutes at a time. If I leave it off until the car warms up alittle, it will blast perfectly hot air...but only for a few minutes, then cold. If I wait a few miles worth of driving and turn it on again, I get hot air again then cold. Could this be blockage foating around plugging up the core and the stopping of flow to it allowing some settling, giving me heat for a short while again till blocked?

 

When you turn on the A/C the PCM should increase the idle air control "counts" to hold the stock idle settings. If the IAC isn't working, or the IAC passage is blocked or plugged, could result in low RPM and a stall. There is no feedback as to whether the IAC is doing what the PCM is telling it to do.

Does the RPM drop slightly at idle when you turn the steering wheel, putting a load on the engine from the power steering pump?

Shoebox has a test to check the IAC motor:

http://shbox.com/1/iac2.jpg

What does the dash coolant temp gauge indicate when the heater suddenly stops producing hot air? Are you sure you have the correct LT1-specific thermostat installed?

Again, from Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/iac2.jpg

 

The gauge stays steady, it hardly moves plus or minus while at operating temp. When cleaning stuff out before I reassembled everything, I cleaned out my overflow and found flakes of gunck/grime. What I didnt do before filling it up and starting it was flush the heater core. Its the only thing I didn't clean. I was in hurry to start it and forgot.

I will check the iac soon. Probably start with a reset then check it more closely. Now that xmas is over I should have more time