KSSS

I have 7'11" ceilings in my garage. Gonna swap lt1 with bad knock to another lower mile cammed lt1. Gonna do headers/pipe, no emissions, motor mounts while im at it as well. Im little worried that i won't be able to lift the body high enough to pull the motor out of the bottom with this ceiling. I actually have only 7'3" to the garage door hardware with the garage door open. I don't mind taking the hood off to gain some room to work with. Would i be able to get away with this keeping the chain length shorter when i lift the front off the motor/kmember? I would like the convenience of being able to work on it as much as i can in the air conditioned garage as opposed to high 90/lower 100* Kansas heat.



Don't risk it, yes or no?

6SpdLT1Z

I'd think you'll be alright (though take with a grain of salt, I personally haven't done a LT1 swap)

Taking the hood off will help and you can drop the motor from the bottom.

3DFORMULA

Easily doable. I'd turn the car around the other way tho'. And remove hood.

ACE1252

I have 8' 6" ceilings. Remove the hood, you will be fine. Leave the car as it sits. I've had the car sitting both ways on an engine removal....for sure nose pointed out the door is better. In my opinion, the biggest concern is having a cherry picker with a long enough reach on it. I also removed the air dam, so I would not have to lift it as high.



Here is my most recent pull. You can see how much slack I have in the chain. I went from using chains around the frame to bending some threaded rod with big thick washers through the shock tower bolt holes and a chain between them. If you go this route, make sure the washers are of a good size...or you may need a plate behind the towers to distribute the load.

I also ditched using jack stands on the front. I built up 2x4 stands. Much more stable than jack stands on the 2x4 extensions.



All thread in shock towers....[Edit]oh..you have a shock tower brace...I've seen fellas wrap a strap around it and lift. That could be an option as well.


2x4 stands....

KSSS

Did u leave your AC compressor and lines intact without discharging?

KSSS

Got to the hydraulic clutch slave and this is what it looked like when i pulled it........

Didn't remember it looking "limp" when i did my clutch and fly several years ago. Only 25k or so miles ago....then, i went to strap it to the side and........

The friggin thing fell apart. This bad, or really bad...

ACE1252

I left everything intact. I pulled all the accessories from the bracket, then removed the bracket. That left more than enough room to pull the compressor forward and to the side while going up with the body. Just be sure to support the back end of it as not to stress the lines.

As for the clutch slave cylinder, where is the fluid coming from? Is it from the cylinder? If so, it would be an excellent time to change it while the engine is out.

Don't sweat the boot and rod.....that can go back together(also pull those little tie straps off the housing...they are just for first time install)....the source of the fluid is what concerns me.

1994BmtZ28

I dropped my engine/tranny/front end a couple of weeks ago using two floor jacks, a bottle jack, and quite a few 8x8 blocks and 2x4s. I put the rear wheels on a couple of unused spare tires as suggested by some on this forum then the front crossmember on blocks & 2x4s using the floor jacks under the front shocks at the lower control arms. After unhooking and unbolting everything necessary I blocked the front frame at the door hinges, put the bottle jack at the tranny's torque arm bracket, then raised the crossmember off the blocks with the floor jacks, and lowered it all down onto my furniture moving dollies, one under the crossmember and one under the tranny pan. I then put a floor jack under the front brace the air dam bolts onto and raised the car and added 2x4s onto the blocks under the door hinges. I kept this up until the assemblies would clear and moved the blocks and jacks out from under the brace and pulled it all out. My hood was up only while I needed it to be to unhook/unbolt certain things. One thing to remember is once the tops of the shock towers clear ya need to pull them together and secure them with a chain and the mounting nuts on the studs to keep the rotors from draggin' after since the front wheels are removed for this method. The 8x8 blocks were railroed ties cut to about 2 or 2 & 1/2 foot lengths and some were cinder blocks with 2x4s on top. I work on the railroad and got this idea watching carmen raise & block freight cars to change out wheel sets (axles). No clearance issues for cranes or engine lifts. It was easier than I anticipated and did it all by myself.

KSSS

Thanks for all the input.....

The fluid on the outside is from the massive oil leak i had on this motor from the rear of the manifold. The other more liquid stuff is from all the generous spraying of PB blaster to get bolts loose

KSSS

Finally............

Just gotta swap all the stuff from the old motor to the new. Have new motor mounts, plugs and wires coming on Tuesday. Just got jeggs 8mm wires and tr555 gapped at .50. Do 8mm wires route using the stock wire looms on the accessory bracket?

jloshotz

8mm are a little tight in the stock brackets, a wire tie or two around the bracket & whole bunch after laying them in the tracks works pretty well

KSSS

Just test fit them. Looks like they will fit pretty easily without pinching them. Still wondering if ill be switching to a lt4 knock sensor or lt4 km, or both?

shoebox

There isn't an LT4 knock sensor. You don't need to worry about the sensor unless you are switching from OBD-I to II computers. The LT4 KM works with either OBD type.

KSSS

Thank u much.....I'll worry about it when i get closer to finishing and tuning the car. almost done switching everything over to the newer motor. Just gotta see what to leave out to eliminate smog stuff, found that my water pump was leaking from the weep hole, and remembering how the accessory bracket went together on the passenger side of the motor, lol

shoebox

http://shbox.com/1/accy_brkt.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/accessory_bracket.jpg