Just pulled my LT1 out Sunday. 4 pages of typed notes and tape everywhere. I went out the bottom but I also bought the Happy Hooker. Leaning towards putting the K-Member back in and dropping it in from the top. Can it be dropped from above with the exhaust manifolds still on it?

I need a rebuild. Any good shops in Atlanta? I have heard MTI Racing and Grimes Twister Engines.

 

with three people, id just lower the car on the kmember with the motor and manifolds on it. one guy lowers it and another two guide the strut tops into place. saves you more work, imo

 

Yeah I guess with a few friends helping that would make it easier. I am just so ready to get the motor off to someone to have it done so I can put it all back together again.

 

Ive got out the top and out the bottom and back in respectively and you will be in for more work either way if you dont stick with how you took it out. Its a good idea to have an extra set of hands either way. I used a leveling adjuster on the cherry picker and it will help in a few ways but I lowered it into place slightly off level and raised the corresponding side of the kmember at the tire so I had one side bolted first. If your going to put headers on ill tell you do it now if you can cuz its one of the biggest advantages of going in the bottom. I went out the top with maniflds on with tranny connected so gussing it would go in with them but its tight getting it in and the arm on my picker wasn't long enough so had to work around the side of the car making it a little trickier.

 

Thanks!! I guess you're right trying to change it up now might be migraine in the waiting. I'm going to clean out a section to set up the engine accessories removal.

Now trying to figure out who I can go to for a reliable LT1 rebuild in the Atlanta area. My only concern is what I can do and still keep it smog legal in Georgia.

 

Ive seen some info on keeping things legal in california and they had medium cam and heads and headers catback and passed with a good tune. The tune needs to be on the more agressive you get but searching and perhaps looking what some of the california guys do to meet smog tests would be my advice. Im pretty sure there are a few tricks out there that help too. Im going to also recomend researching not going too big with your throttle body as idle issues develope. My guess is a ported out stock one will work best given your looking to get close to max power and smog legal. Id look into what your able to do exhaust wise as well and try to find a proven build up. I wish I had looked harder for someone to build my motor local or close and wish I had went shortblock rather than getting a longblock. Goodluck and sorry for kinda taking a different direction on your thread ksss

 

no problem, slick1hunting.

bled my brakes, put my torque arm on, and drove around the block a few times. catback was hanging down so i took it slow. didn't get my abs light to go off. probably have to bleed again, and again....

i tried the abs cycling method of turning the car on and off several times. when i drive, the low traction light goes off, but the second i put the parking brake on, it flashes again?

 

Wonder if you need to draw a vacuum on the line from the bottom? I had heard once that reverse bleeding causes ABS problems. I have a large vacuum canister I use to bleed brakes with that runs off the air compressor.

Is it maybe an air pocket or something or some sort of sensor?

 

Thanks for the info. I'll look around and see what I think might work.

I have about four pages of notes I've taken dropping this out the bottom. If mine goes back in easily then if anyone wants them I can clean them up and email them to folks.

So KSSS did your dropping the body back down go as smooth or better than the lifting if it?

 

Now that you're getting into specific tech issues, you need to add a "Signature" with basic info about your car - year, model, engine, trans and any major mods. There are subtle differences from year to year, so you will get more accurate answers if you provide the signature info. No one want to scroll back through 5 pages to see if you ever provided it.

 

yes, that is good advice. just changed my Sig

 

My 0.02 on getting the engine and body back together.

I went down, over the engine/k-member combo), until I was around 2 or 4 inches from the k-member. I then set the body on stands, put a chain across the front of the engine, attached it to the engine hoist, and then pulled the engine to the body. This allows for the engine to swing in mid-air to where you can align the dowel pins easily. The back of the tranny was mounted to a jack. As I go up with the engine, I go up with the jack under the tranny.

I've done all of the above completely by myself. Removal and install. The only thing I've had help with was removing and installing the hood(need two as not to scratch it).

 

I didnt pull my hood just popped the strut loose and lifted it straight up I did tie it so wouldnt move(going through the top) back down as I was more worried storing mine and getting it back on. I havent bled my brakes yet and kinda wondered the best procedure and notice a couple bleed screws on the abs(module) or whatever its called were you disconnect the lines. My tendancy was to want to bleed there first as it seemed the biggest air pocket would be between it and the resivoir. Then start at the furthest point(not sure if there is seperation between front in rear or it needs bled at rear first)havent really looked close but appeared that module split front from rear.

 

i thought it was easier going in......after i knew where everything was. i had a tough time with the ac compressor since i didn't want to purge the system, what a mess those lines are. i suggest two people doing the lift and setting it back in if you've never done anything like this, probably more fun too.

for the brakes, i did the rear bleeder on the abs module, then the front. i then did the rear and then the fronts. i cycled the module before doing the wheels, but didn't rebleed it at the end. I Should have, but got impatient! im probably gonna do it Tuesday and hopefully get it right. i have great pedal feel, but no abs. i might try it after bleeding the module one more time and see if im straight after.

can anyone tell me what size wrench that is on the module breeders? i just used the smallest cresent wrench in the world on it, but would like to have a boxed wrench to do it again. don't wanna buy one of those multisize sets, haha

 

When bleeding the brakes it is advisable to start as far away from the master cylinder as possible and work your way forward. You can't get away with just bleeding the ABS system...you must bleed the whole system. States at the rig rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front and then the ABS unit. You'll be glad you did.......