Time for new clutch probably
09-27-2018, 11:26 AM
#16
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
for a stock clutch, especially a single disc clutch, stock hydraulics are fine. The larger aftermarket MC will push more fluid per stroke than a stock size MC and there would be a shorter clutch pedal stroke to do the same as a stock MC.
While nothing wrong with using a larger bore MC on a single disc clutch it is not needed. Multi disc clutches they are needed.
If using one I would strongly consider the McLeod MC vs the Third Gen (same as Tick) that uses the Tilton MC. McLeod MC uses the Wilwood MC.
While nothing wrong with using a larger bore MC on a single disc clutch it is not needed. Multi disc clutches they are needed.
If using one I would strongly consider the McLeod MC vs the Third Gen (same as Tick) that uses the Tilton MC. McLeod MC uses the Wilwood MC.
09-27-2018, 12:04 PM
#17
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
???, pic posted but none of my text...
as mentioned your T.O. bearing top could be peeled back or "T" bolt holding fork broke. You need to pull tranny to deal with that
also you need the plastic cup on end of slave rod where it contacts fork. You should just buy a new complete hydraulic (MC/slave) and install that as a sealed hydraulic. You can just replace the slave but you will need to then bleed the hydraulics. Tedious with these LT1 hydraulics but doable
as mentioned your T.O. bearing top could be peeled back or "T" bolt holding fork broke. You need to pull tranny to deal with that
also you need the plastic cup on end of slave rod where it contacts fork. You should just buy a new complete hydraulic (MC/slave) and install that as a sealed hydraulic. You can just replace the slave but you will need to then bleed the hydraulics. Tedious with these LT1 hydraulics but doable
n I just came back from oreilys n the only thing I got was the hydraulic part,I didn't get the whole thing n I notice the plastic tip looks like the previous owner didn't have it on there
09-27-2018, 12:33 PM
#18
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
I bought my slave at O'rielys. It was the exact same part as OEM, just packaged under "Power Stroke" IIRC
You can also buy the complete unit. rockauto has them. $105
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1384431&cc=1035931&jsn=475
just leave the slave compressed with the straps on it when you install it. the 1st time you push clutch pedal the straps break leaving the ball on the slave rod
you may discover the T.O. bearing needs replacing once you pull the tranny
You can also buy the complete unit. rockauto has them. $105
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1384431&cc=1035931&jsn=475
just leave the slave compressed with the straps on it when you install it. the 1st time you push clutch pedal the straps break leaving the ball on the slave rod
you may discover the T.O. bearing needs replacing once you pull the tranny
09-27-2018, 02:40 PM
#20
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
Wouldn't the adjustment allow for more pedal in any clutches case? I hadn't see the McLeod one. I have seen Twin Streets outside their site, but nothing from them directly. Are they no longer made?
09-27-2018, 03:25 PM
#21
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
yes "adjustable" MC rods will raise pedal to allow for more travel before pedal hits bump stop. Should not be necessary with a single disc clutch and not really the "band aide" one would use when hydraulics are "soft" that need bleeding or are failing to achieve full disengagement.
Larger bore MC though push more fluid in the same distance of stroke as a stock bore MC. You will notice with a larger bore MC it takes less pedal movement than a stock bore to disengage the clutch.
This is the McLeod 13/16 bore MC that came with my Street Twin. I "think" the "Street Twin" for the LT1 is not available anymore but IMHO is a very good clutch for LT1 that make more HP than stock.
https://www.mcleodracing.com/index.p...-97-43284.html
McLeod also offered the stock 3/4" bore MC. IDK if they still do
Larger bore MC though push more fluid in the same distance of stroke as a stock bore MC. You will notice with a larger bore MC it takes less pedal movement than a stock bore to disengage the clutch.
This is the McLeod 13/16 bore MC that came with my Street Twin. I "think" the "Street Twin" for the LT1 is not available anymore but IMHO is a very good clutch for LT1 that make more HP than stock.
https://www.mcleodracing.com/index.p...-97-43284.html
McLeod also offered the stock 3/4" bore MC. IDK if they still do
09-27-2018, 04:09 PM
#22
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
yes "adjustable" MC rods will raise pedal to allow for more travel before pedal hits bump stop. Should not be necessary with a single disc clutch and not really the "band aide" one would use when hydraulics are "soft" that need bleeding or are failing to achieve full disengagement.
Larger bore MC though push more fluid in the same distance of stroke as a stock bore MC. You will notice with a larger bore MC it takes less pedal movement than a stock bore to disengage the clutch.
This is the McLeod 13/16 bore MC that came with my Street Twin. I "think" the "Street Twin" for the LT1 is not available anymore but IMHO is a very good clutch for LT1 that make more HP than stock.
https://www.mcleodracing.com/index.p...-97-43284.html
McLeod also offered the stock 3/4" bore MC. IDK if they still do
Larger bore MC though push more fluid in the same distance of stroke as a stock bore MC. You will notice with a larger bore MC it takes less pedal movement than a stock bore to disengage the clutch.
This is the McLeod 13/16 bore MC that came with my Street Twin. I "think" the "Street Twin" for the LT1 is not available anymore but IMHO is a very good clutch for LT1 that make more HP than stock.
https://www.mcleodracing.com/index.p...-97-43284.html
McLeod also offered the stock 3/4" bore MC. IDK if they still do
09-27-2018, 04:10 PM
#23
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
btw the clutch that I currently have I'm there is a stage 3 racing clutch
09-27-2018, 04:33 PM
#24
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
I think there are a number of good options out there. I currently have a Spec Stage 4, and loved it. Unfortunately I had oil contamination which killed the clutch, and am now replacing it with a stage 3+. I had Centerforce before, and loved the feel.
09-27-2018, 06:38 PM
#25
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
McLeod developed the adjustable master for their Street Twin clutch. Originally, the Street Twin was set up for the stock hydraulics, but required shaving 0.10” off the T-bolt, and installing a sleeve in the stock slave. My original setup with the T56 used those mods. The adjustable master eliminated those changes. And people started using the adjustable on other clutch setups.
While the Street Twin is good for 1,200 HP, moderate pedal pressure, smooth engagement, loves 5,000+ RPM dumps, and comes wth a choice of a steel or aluminum flywheel, the pricing starts at about $1,300. A bit of overkill on moderate HP applications.
While the Street Twin is good for 1,200 HP, moderate pedal pressure, smooth engagement, loves 5,000+ RPM dumps, and comes wth a choice of a steel or aluminum flywheel, the pricing starts at about $1,300. A bit of overkill on moderate HP applications.
10-13-2018, 05:30 PM
#26
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
Dorman Clutch Slave Cylinders CS360052
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dhb-cs360052?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-dorman&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq47h5raE3gIVRmF-Ch011Q-oEAQYCCABEgK6tfD_BwE
hey guys I already bought my new clutch,and I'm still new at buying parts,when I got the clutch master cylinder at oreilys, they only gave me the hydraulic part and not the slave cylinder. So I opened an account on summit racing,I bought the clutch there and I found the slave cylinder,will I be able to just disconnect the old slave cylinder,that way I don't have to take the whole thing out again,that was a nightmare and a pain in the ***. Thank you guys on everything
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dhb-cs360052?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-dorman&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq47h5raE3gIVRmF-Ch011Q-oEAQYCCABEgK6tfD_BwE
hey guys I already bought my new clutch,and I'm still new at buying parts,when I got the clutch master cylinder at oreilys, they only gave me the hydraulic part and not the slave cylinder. So I opened an account on summit racing,I bought the clutch there and I found the slave cylinder,will I be able to just disconnect the old slave cylinder,that way I don't have to take the whole thing out again,that was a nightmare and a pain in the ***. Thank you guys on everything
10-13-2018, 10:40 PM
#27
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
You can disconnect the braided line at the slave end by pushing the roll pin out of connector and separating. Then attach your new slave. You should bench bleed the new slave first
But....you will now need to bleed these hydraulics which can be tedious on the LT1 type. You need a helper up top watching for air bubbles and add fluid while you pump the slave while it is hanging with the palm of your hand
I would have just bought a new sealed hydraulic with MC/Slave/Reservoir and installed as a sealed system as they do when the car was built. rockauto has them
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...035931&jsn=475
But....you will now need to bleed these hydraulics which can be tedious on the LT1 type. You need a helper up top watching for air bubbles and add fluid while you pump the slave while it is hanging with the palm of your hand
I would have just bought a new sealed hydraulic with MC/Slave/Reservoir and installed as a sealed system as they do when the car was built. rockauto has them
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...035931&jsn=475
10-14-2018, 07:10 AM
#28
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
lol I realized that when I seen ur post I know,I know now to do that all good,my dad's going to help me,but shoot thank you,Drew,and Fred for all the inputs and information. You guys are the best
10-27-2018, 08:13 PM
#29
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Re: Time for new clutch probably
All done camaro is back on the road,yea chimera the throw out bearing was destroyed and tore up!!! The other parts didn't look too bad. Clutch pedal feels way better,all shifting is perfect n smooth. Now I hear something about clutch break in? Am I supposed to be easy the first 500 miles to let the clutch break in? And not to take it past 3500 rpms? And not stomp on it correct?
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