Time for new clutch probably
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 769
From: las vegas
Time for new clutch probably
Hey guys I did a run on the camaro,I did push hard on it,before I got home as I was turning i heard a boom and the clutch was stuck to the floor n I couldn't get it in gear. So what am I looking at as of what is broken,I can put it in gear when the cars off, just can't put it in gear when it's running.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,113
Re: Time for new clutch probably
Maybe your hydraulics just shiat the bed
clutch pedal that just goes to the floor is often failed MC or slave
if not hydraulics, you need to pull tranny and look at clutch. Damage would be visible if that is the issue
clutch pedal that just goes to the floor is often failed MC or slave
if not hydraulics, you need to pull tranny and look at clutch. Damage would be visible if that is the issue
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 769
From: las vegas
Re: Time for new clutch probably
thank you chimera on quick reply,I went to go look at it,it's in my driveway and I can't even push the clutch it's way harder than anything. Yea before the clutch pedal was all the way to the floor,then popped back before I got home.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,113
Re: Time for new clutch probably
By "doing a run and pushing it hard"....do you mean you severely slipped the clutch and smelled burnt clutch after?
or the pedal is on the floor and won't come up?
or the pedal is rock hard now and won't push in?
or the pedal is on the floor and won't come up?
or the pedal is rock hard now and won't push in?
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,113
Re: Time for new clutch probably
that rod does come off. The ball end goes against the piston cup in slave. Held on by the rubber boot. There should be a plastic cup end on the side that pushes against fork
you should be able to slowly push that rood in against the piston in slave
It is possible your MC died. You can buy a sealed MC/Slave unit and install it without needing to bleed anything.
If your rod just fell off but you can put it back together and if hydraulics are otherwise OK than something wrong with the clutch itself
you should be able to slowly push that rood in against the piston in slave
It is possible your MC died. You can buy a sealed MC/Slave unit and install it without needing to bleed anything.
If your rod just fell off but you can put it back together and if hydraulics are otherwise OK than something wrong with the clutch itself
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 769
From: las vegas
Re: Time for new clutch probably
that rod does come off. The ball end goes against the piston cup in slave. Held on by the rubber boot. There should be a plastic cup end on the side that pushes against fork
you should be able to slowly push that rood in against the piston in slave
It is possible your MC died. You can buy a sealed MC/Slave unit and install it without needing to bleed anything.
If your rod just fell off but you can put it back together and if hydraulics are otherwise OK than something wrong with the clutch itself
you should be able to slowly push that rood in against the piston in slave
It is possible your MC died. You can buy a sealed MC/Slave unit and install it without needing to bleed anything.
If your rod just fell off but you can put it back together and if hydraulics are otherwise OK than something wrong with the clutch itself
Administrator
Joined: Nov 1998
Posts: 71,094
From: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Re: Time for new clutch probably
Just to make your explanations clearer -
The MASTER cylinder is the part bolted to the firewall, with the pedal attached. The SLAVE cylinder is the part bolted to the bell housing, with the pushrod that moves the clutch fork.
Assuming you were describing the SLAVE cylinder, appears something happened to the clutch fork or the throw out bearing. When you pressed the pedal, the fork let go, the push rod came out of the slave cylinder, and fell off, causing loss of pressure. Pedal went to floor. The piston in the slave was stopped, bottomed out in the slave at it’s full extension, When you let off th pedal, the master retracted,pulled more fluid in from the reservoir, causing the braided line to be full of fluid and the slave piston was bottomed out, stopping the clutch pedal from being depressed.
Sounds like the fork came off the throw out bearing, because the t/o bearing broke (not unusual) or the fork broke (possible). Or the pivot T-bolt that the fork pivots on broke (unusual). If the fork is still pivoting on the T-bolt, the looseness allowing the cylinder end of the fork to move in and out would indicate the T-bolt is intact. Grab the end of the fork and pull away from trans input shaft. If he T-bolt and spring on fork that holds it there are intact, they will loosely retain the fork.
The MASTER cylinder is the part bolted to the firewall, with the pedal attached. The SLAVE cylinder is the part bolted to the bell housing, with the pushrod that moves the clutch fork.
Assuming you were describing the SLAVE cylinder, appears something happened to the clutch fork or the throw out bearing. When you pressed the pedal, the fork let go, the push rod came out of the slave cylinder, and fell off, causing loss of pressure. Pedal went to floor. The piston in the slave was stopped, bottomed out in the slave at it’s full extension, When you let off th pedal, the master retracted,pulled more fluid in from the reservoir, causing the braided line to be full of fluid and the slave piston was bottomed out, stopping the clutch pedal from being depressed.
Sounds like the fork came off the throw out bearing, because the t/o bearing broke (not unusual) or the fork broke (possible). Or the pivot T-bolt that the fork pivots on broke (unusual). If the fork is still pivoting on the T-bolt, the looseness allowing the cylinder end of the fork to move in and out would indicate the T-bolt is intact. Grab the end of the fork and pull away from trans input shaft. If he T-bolt and spring on fork that holds it there are intact, they will loosely retain the fork.
Last edited by Injuneer; Sep 27, 2018 at 09:27 AM.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,113
Re: Time for new clutch probably
???, pic posted but none of my text...
as mentioned your T.O. bearing top could be peeled back or "T" bolt holding fork broke. You need to pull tranny to deal with that
also you need the plastic cup on end of slave rod where it contacts fork. You should just buy a new complete hydraulic (MC/slave) and install that as a sealed hydraulic. You can just replace the slave but you will need to then bleed the hydraulics. Tedious with these LT1 hydraulics but doable
as mentioned your T.O. bearing top could be peeled back or "T" bolt holding fork broke. You need to pull tranny to deal with that
also you need the plastic cup on end of slave rod where it contacts fork. You should just buy a new complete hydraulic (MC/slave) and install that as a sealed hydraulic. You can just replace the slave but you will need to then bleed the hydraulics. Tedious with these LT1 hydraulics but doable
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,917
From: Las Vegas
Re: Time for new clutch probably
It is pricey, but I have been looking at a redesigned adjustable master cylinder: 93-97 Camaro/Firebird LT1 Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder Kit - Hawks Third Generation