Lost a lobe (or more) on my solid cammed LT1 yesterday...
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,791
From: Upstate New York,USA
If the issue is loose rockers then mine got "loose" three times with two of those being “really loose”. The first was exactly as Dave describes, the second cost me an engine and the third “loose rocker” cost me another engine. It was Jordon Musser whom pulled the last engine and sent the block to a machine shop to be repaired. I was frankly pretty upset at the time and had no interest in messing with it myself. (Understatement)
The person whom I sold one of my solid roller Cam Motion cams to also had a loose rocker loosing a cam lobe.
When going back to a hydraulic setup, so far I not experienced any loose rockers. Just coincidence or I may have gotten better at tightening rockers I guess.
The person whom I sold one of my solid roller Cam Motion cams to also had a loose rocker loosing a cam lobe.
When going back to a hydraulic setup, so far I not experienced any loose rockers. Just coincidence or I may have gotten better at tightening rockers I guess.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,661
From: LA (lower Alabama)
For anyone who is interested:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Supposed to be low profile for tube chassis cars. mdacton has said he's seen this work under the cowl of a 4th gen, however w/ high spring pressures and a short leeever... "you better eat your Weaties..."
So you've witnessed first hand failures from the likes of the Red Zones and EndureXes and HIPPOzes with undisputed, undoubted proof it was the fault of said lifter to come up with such a conclusion?
... or is this more "Comp R" type logic...
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Supposed to be low profile for tube chassis cars. mdacton has said he's seen this work under the cowl of a 4th gen, however w/ high spring pressures and a short leeever... "you better eat your Weaties..."
So you've witnessed first hand failures from the likes of the Red Zones and EndureXes and HIPPOzes with undisputed, undoubted proof it was the fault of said lifter to come up with such a conclusion?
... or is this more "Comp R" type logic...
When the man who makes 'um and sells them doesn't recommend them,that's good enough for me.
As I posted in an earlier post.
OBTW I don't use anything Comp makes.
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From: Goochland, Va.
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Joined: Oct 1998
Posts: 3,144
From: Jackstandican
The only logic used here is that Dave Crower of Crower cams would not recommend his HIPPO lifters for street duty.
When the man who makes 'um and sells them doesn't recommend them,that's good enough for me.
As I posted in an earlier post.
OBTW I don't use anything Comp makes.
When the man who makes 'um and sells them doesn't recommend them,that's good enough for me.
As I posted in an earlier post.
OBTW I don't use anything Comp makes.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,935
From: Mobile, Ala..USA
BTW my COMP CAMS solid roller is living just fine thank you, 2000 street miles with no hiccups. Pulled it out at 1500 miles, cam and rollers look like new, most of that driving was cruising in traffic. SO much for Comp Cams JUNK, seems like alot of people actually DRIVING and racing an engine that have ZERO problems. COMP has been around ALONG time...that didnt happen by selling junk. And if they do, mine seems to be fine.
I have seen very little if any bad press on a Comp Endurex lifter, or any of the pressurized roller lifters...but of course I dont sit behind a keyboard for hours on end..I have a car with a solid roller cam I drive around and race.
David
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Dec 3, 2007 at 08:16 AM.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,661
From: LA (lower Alabama)
ME too.
When one of the bigger makers of roller lifters and people I was doing bunisness with before some posters where even thought about, says it won't work for long, again that's good enough for me.
It's like back when nascar had a qualifing engine and ya tried to race with that engine. It could let go on lap 20 or 120 but chances are it wouldn't finish the race.
When one of the bigger makers of roller lifters and people I was doing bunisness with before some posters where even thought about, says it won't work for long, again that's good enough for me.
It's like back when nascar had a qualifing engine and ya tried to race with that engine. It could let go on lap 20 or 120 but chances are it wouldn't finish the race.
Last edited by Javier97Z28; Dec 3, 2007 at 10:47 AM. Reason: Thread cleanup.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,935
From: Mobile, Ala..USA
Back to the thread, so you have done tests on ALL the other roller lifters you say are junk? I would be more scared of those $1500 Schubecks than what I have, no one has run them on the street, nor will you, you will claim it to be a streetcar...but it will never cruise, if by chance it ever runs. To BE a streetcar it actually has to be streetdriven.
You know there is a saying....without data your information is just an opinion.
There is many reasons why parts fail, who knows why. I have learned a solid roller setup is very lubrication critical, oil pressure at idle and the type of oil used is VERY important.
I believe the reason mine has done well so far is the Rotella oil and the 35-40 psi hot oil pressure, most guys with a solid roller either have a stick car or a stall converter...idle the car up, mine idles at 1150-1200 in gear....oil pressure stays steady and no lower than 35 psi.
You guys up north where it is cold find a way to heat the oil before startup, I got a little quartz worklight and it gets HOT! I would put it under the oil pan overnight facing straight up.....sure cant hurt, along with a different oil for very cold climate, I dont claim to know what that oil may be....just saying.
David
You know there is a saying....without data your information is just an opinion.
There is many reasons why parts fail, who knows why. I have learned a solid roller setup is very lubrication critical, oil pressure at idle and the type of oil used is VERY important.
I believe the reason mine has done well so far is the Rotella oil and the 35-40 psi hot oil pressure, most guys with a solid roller either have a stick car or a stall converter...idle the car up, mine idles at 1150-1200 in gear....oil pressure stays steady and no lower than 35 psi.
You guys up north where it is cold find a way to heat the oil before startup, I got a little quartz worklight and it gets HOT! I would put it under the oil pan overnight facing straight up.....sure cant hurt, along with a different oil for very cold climate, I dont claim to know what that oil may be....just saying.
David
Last edited by Javier97Z28; Dec 3, 2007 at 10:48 AM. Reason: Thread cleanup.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,661
From: LA (lower Alabama)
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/comp...ers-60724.html
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...1fcf66a6006f7e
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...er=asc&start=0
I do NOt have any problems with solid rollers cams. I always tell the customer to NOT let the engine idle slow. (EVER) 15 to 1600 is the slowest I reccommend to everyone. Simple, but NO problems at all.
JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES
Joe Sherman is one of the baddest engine builders on the block.
I don't know anyone that has their idle set at 1500.
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...1fcf66a6006f7e
http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic...er=asc&start=0
I do NOt have any problems with solid rollers cams. I always tell the customer to NOT let the engine idle slow. (EVER) 15 to 1600 is the slowest I reccommend to everyone. Simple, but NO problems at all.
JOE SHERMAN RACING ENGINES
Joe Sherman is one of the baddest engine builders on the block.
I don't know anyone that has their idle set at 1500.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,983
From: Jacksonville,fla
So from reading all of this, to keep a SR going for a long time you need:
1.Tight clearances
2.a light valvetrain ie: titanium retainers, sodium filled valves
3.The correct springs and check them often
4.oil pressure filled solid lifters.
5.Try like hell not to let it idle for a long periode of time. ie no showing off for friends to hear how it sounds.
6.metal oil pump drive gear
7. Use a good grade of oil??
What else am I missing?
1.Tight clearances
2.a light valvetrain ie: titanium retainers, sodium filled valves
3.The correct springs and check them often
4.oil pressure filled solid lifters.
5.Try like hell not to let it idle for a long periode of time. ie no showing off for friends to hear how it sounds.
6.metal oil pump drive gear
7. Use a good grade of oil??
What else am I missing?
Moderator
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 10,745
From: Buffalo, New York
So from reading all of this, to keep a SR going for a long time you need:
1.Tight clearances
2.a light valvetrain ie: titanium retainers, sodium filled valves
3.The correct springs and check them often
4.oil pressure filled solid lifters.
5.Try like hell not to let it idle for a long periode of time. ie no showing off for friends to hear how it sounds.
6.metal oil pump drive gear
7. Use a good grade of oil??
What else am I missing?
1.Tight clearances
2.a light valvetrain ie: titanium retainers, sodium filled valves
3.The correct springs and check them often
4.oil pressure filled solid lifters.
5.Try like hell not to let it idle for a long periode of time. ie no showing off for friends to hear how it sounds.
6.metal oil pump drive gear
7. Use a good grade of oil??
What else am I missing?
Rich