I thought I read that somewhere? Ok so scratch that one. Feel free to add to the list. So far Ive read what doesnt work with a SR. So why dont we discuss on ways to make one work. Valve train technology has come along way. But you mean to tell me its still a crap shoot to make one live on the street?.

 

Idle speed, set it to where you have at least 25psi at idle hot. Keep the oil changed.

Light valves are not necessarily the hot ticket under 7000 rpm in a steetcar. A GOOD valve such as a Ferrea 6000 stainless or something similar. If you can afford a good lightweight valve, go for it.

I personally think shaft rockers help, keeps the geometry in check.

I also think people start out wanting a solid roller for the street and start buying parts not knowing what they are getting into, then start skimping when the money starts to run out, thats a bad thing.

Also the correct spring for your application is important.

To make one live, you have to buy the whole enchilada. The whole package.

The above statements are just what I THINK I know, just from who I have talked to and what has made mine live so far for 2000 miles.
I dont profess to have engines running all over the place and a shop that builds cars or engines......I am just a gearhead like all the other speed addicts on this board.

David

 

I'll add a couple of "I Thinks" to this.

I Think I've never seen any objective dyno data posted regarding a true apples to apples comparison of solid vs hyraulic lifters on an engine that never sees over 7000 rpm. (the limit of the stock LT1 computer) They always use cams that vary in duration and lift.

I Think some of the newer hydraulic lifters work very well and do not go into float at streetable cam duration and lift. But no one has posted any real evidence either way.

I know after spending at least $l5K on fixing problems resulting from issues with solid rollers and not spending a dime on fixing simular problems with hydraulic lifters, that I don't have the ***** to try another solid roller. (one of the very few things I really do know)

I know my street car with a hydraulic cam with perfect drivability makes over 480 rwhp. If I wanted to play the dyno games the name shops use to sell parts, I could post a 510-520 rwhp dyno sheet.

 

Denny, does that say 15k, or 5k? Looks like an "l", or something.

 

Nice numbers. What kind of times are you churning out?

 

Denny, do you mean solid vs hyd in the same engine? Or LTx's as a whole?

I doubt my car would make 463 to the tires through a 4L60E and a 9 inch with a hydraulic roller....it might, but I doubt it.


David

 

One check I wrote for a super blueprint/rebuild was over $8,000.00. You tell me?

 

I am in agreement with Denny on this one. With the grinds that most people would want on the street, the HR and SR lobes are very similar and will perform similar with the nod going to the HR in terms of cost and possibly reliability. It is clear that for a really radical cam, SR is the way to go. Lift over 0.650-0.700", rpm over 7,000 etc. then go solid. Street reliability seems questionable though.

People with SR setups often seem to be ego invested in them, I don't know why. I have used a SR on the street without valvetrain issues. I didn't ever get excited about it though and the car never had many miles on it with the SR setup . It makes just as much hp with the HR, though it's not an apples to apples comparison. I would not recommend a SR at this point except for someone who wouldn't whine like a little bitch when it done blowed up and is also willing/capable to be really meticulous about maintainence and alert to possible problems. I just don't know people with spare motors sitting around to pop in as needed.

Rich

 

It's a C4 Corvette weighting 3240 lbs that has ran a best of 10.83 132.50 mph.

My biggest problem is being a being a true street car is the people at Ennis (the only 1/4th track locally) all know me and w/o a roll bar, won't let me run.

That's OK......remember, it's a street car, smokes stock C6 Z06's and on Friday night cruising, it does OK for an ol POS.

 

What I mean is a small block Chevy is a "small block Chevy" and the LTx is just part of the family to my knowledge. Yep, they have constantly improved evolving to the LS3/LS7, but the basic design 23 degree head started in 1955. Can't explain it, can't justify it nor rectify it, but can say w/o reservations….. I had major problems.

The key word here is……. “Yep, they have constantly improved” and so have I to leave an open window.

Yous spends Yous mones. Youse takes Youse chances. Youse tell me if it works cause mees still has a sore butt from taking the same chances a long time ago.

 

Basically be concerned about the loads the lifter sees, which is what 2 & 3 are all about.

Bret

 

Rich

We should maybe post on "dating.com" as we continue to be a match.

I happen to enjoy sunsets with a grin and a martini in my hand. Long sessions dazing into ones eyes discussing the merits of nitrous vs forced induction.

A sensitive and delicate type w/feelings.

 

Being the dumb blond type...all I have to remember is the sore butt part.

 

LOL

Denny are you taking part in your favorite past time of drinking and posting again?

 

Ahhhh, nevermind then!