Lost a lobe (or more) on my solid cammed LT1 yesterday...
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,791
From: Upstate New York,USA
Ah.. I see. Sorry Bret. On a related note, your price you quoted for my turbo cam kit... Is that price for cam and springs or cam, springs, retainers and locks? Thanks!
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I would e-mail me on it....
That lightweight setup I was talking about uses a super small dual spring that is about 60% of the mass of a dual like you are using, and the valves are 70g's even with the TK lobes it's going with the thing is not going to need more than 130lbs seated! Those lifters will last FOREVER!!!!! Gotta love old race parts laying around!
That lightweight setup I was talking about uses a super small dual spring that is about 60% of the mass of a dual like you are using, and the valves are 70g's even with the TK lobes it's going with the thing is not going to need more than 130lbs seated! Those lifters will last FOREVER!!!!! Gotta love old race parts laying around!
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Yes. I checked each of the drivers’ side rockers. Every one of the locknuts was tight. It actually was running great till that morning and even with that, it was fine upon startup. I seem to curse myself with bad luck by remarking on both the earlier 355 and 383 about how great they're running. The following day seems to bring unforeseen disaster. The 355 stripped off every tooth of the oil pump drive while I was idling along at 20 mph in a school zone dropping my daughter off to school. The day before this 383 had this issue, it was running fantastically. I thought "How lucky am I to have this car I've built on my own and it's able to spin the tires at the top of third just accelerating?". I parked it in my driveway and went into the house. Next morning, Just like many other days, I started the car to defrost the windows. It started fine, first crank. Idles perfectly, not a single unusual sound. Oil pressure is 65-70psi, idle RPM is 1,000. Oil is Mobil 1 full synth. Filter is Wix 51060. Oil is one month old, approx 700 miles on that liquid.
I wish I'd known about the oil additives being stripped. Oh well, live and learn. Where does one buy those oils with the zinc, etc typically? NAPA? The Net? I want to make sure that I use this oil for my new turbo motor.
I wish I'd known about the oil additives being stripped. Oh well, live and learn. Where does one buy those oils with the zinc, etc typically? NAPA? The Net? I want to make sure that I use this oil for my new turbo motor.
You should post what you situation is over at the bobistheoilguy.com forums and you will get some knowledgeable assistance. You don't need to run a thick oil like 20w-50 - You need a nice 5-40 synthetic with high extreme pressure additives. You have numerous options.
Last edited by TenSecondZ; Nov 19, 2007 at 09:28 PM.
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,855
From: Ohio
- Do not use a solid roller on a street car.
- Do not use a cog belt blower on a street car.
- You may well be sorry if you put a non-OD automatic in your street car.
- You probably will not be happy with a spool in a street car.
- Do not install solid motor mounts on a street car.
Rich
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Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 1,791
From: Upstate New York,USA
I really appreciate all the great information I've received from all of you guys. I've learned more about the proper way to use a solid roller in the past 3 days than I have in the past 10 yrs. Admittedly, I had only heard about the performance implications until now. I should've investigated more and invested the kind of effort I had when I installed nitrous. I was so scared of grenading the motor, I checked out everything before and during. I had a simplistic view that a solid roller was like a hyd roller but with more power and better rev capability.
Dave - A few off the shelf recommendations are SL rated Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 Mobil 1 Devlac 5w40 also know as Mobil 1 T&SUV or Shell Rotella Synthetic 5w40. but I would go a step furthur and run a boutique oil like Redline or Amsoil. You will probably pay $7-8 a quart but its pretty cheap insurance. Any of the above mentioned oils are going to have stronger additive pack that the new SM M1 oils.
You should post what you situation is over at the bobistheoilguy.com forums and you will get some knowledgeable assistance. You don't need to run a thick oil like 20w-50 - You need a nice 5-40 synthetic with high extreme pressure additives. You have numerous options.
You should post what you situation is over at the bobistheoilguy.com forums and you will get some knowledgeable assistance. You don't need to run a thick oil like 20w-50 - You need a nice 5-40 synthetic with high extreme pressure additives. You have numerous options.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: LA (lower Alabama)
Read my other post 'bout Kendall GT1 and ya can still get it.
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 6,661
From: LA (lower Alabama)
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1451352
http://www.amref.com/
There ya go,let the UPS man bring it.
http://www.amref.com/
There ya go,let the UPS man bring it.
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GM has a bottle of EOS that you throw in on break in, or you run some of the Joe Gibbs break in oil and then one of their flat tappet oils after that.
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From: LA (lower Alabama)
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At least wrt the valvetrain, race profile solid flat tappets are by far the most demanding in terms of lubrication. The high spring pressures needed are working through a very small contact area at the lifter face/cam lobe interface. As the zinc has been taken out of even "race" oils, there started to be failures in those solid flat tappet setups. That's how the change in oil formulation became known to the average racer. For those setups, it is really imperative to use one of the oils or additives I suggested in an eariler post. Brad Penn, Rotella-T, additives, etc.
There would be other resons to pick an oil with a HR or street SR, which have much lower loads at the roller/cam interface. Many different oils will give good service there. Opinions vary, but I am personally not a strong believer in synthetics for MY performance or race motors. They get rebuilt long before they wear out, so the small performance gain due to lower friction does not justify the cost, to me. I put close to 25,000 miles per year on my DD and I also use dino oil there. Typically, I buy them new and use them for 125-150,000 miles. I change oil every 5-7,500 miles and have never seen any abnormal wear. The last Silverado I had was an '01 and it had exactly the same oil pressure as new when I sold it at 120,000 miles.
If you are running very high spring pressures on a solid roller, then I would also go for a high zinc oil. This is not based on any data, just logic starting with the flat tappet problems. But there is far too much hype around oil to have a rational discussion on it. You can get people all in a huff saying synthetic isn't worth it. Before you put any creedence in their opinion, ask them how many motors they have torn down, whether they have EVER seen a failure related to the oil brand used, etc. It's really much ado about almost nothing wrt street cars. You could probably use ANY oil meeting the current API specification, even the cheapest stuff you could buy, and not notice any difference if you had a reasonable change interval. I have no problem spending 30, 40, or $50,000 on a car but I refuse to put $8/qt oil in it for no reason. If I ever bought a very expensive street car or a vintage race car and planned to keep it in original condition for many years I would consider synthetic. I suppose rebuilding a Ferrari V-12 is something I would want to put off as long as possible. But since that isn't in my future, I doubt I will ever be doing it.
Rich
There would be other resons to pick an oil with a HR or street SR, which have much lower loads at the roller/cam interface. Many different oils will give good service there. Opinions vary, but I am personally not a strong believer in synthetics for MY performance or race motors. They get rebuilt long before they wear out, so the small performance gain due to lower friction does not justify the cost, to me. I put close to 25,000 miles per year on my DD and I also use dino oil there. Typically, I buy them new and use them for 125-150,000 miles. I change oil every 5-7,500 miles and have never seen any abnormal wear. The last Silverado I had was an '01 and it had exactly the same oil pressure as new when I sold it at 120,000 miles.
If you are running very high spring pressures on a solid roller, then I would also go for a high zinc oil. This is not based on any data, just logic starting with the flat tappet problems. But there is far too much hype around oil to have a rational discussion on it. You can get people all in a huff saying synthetic isn't worth it. Before you put any creedence in their opinion, ask them how many motors they have torn down, whether they have EVER seen a failure related to the oil brand used, etc. It's really much ado about almost nothing wrt street cars. You could probably use ANY oil meeting the current API specification, even the cheapest stuff you could buy, and not notice any difference if you had a reasonable change interval. I have no problem spending 30, 40, or $50,000 on a car but I refuse to put $8/qt oil in it for no reason. If I ever bought a very expensive street car or a vintage race car and planned to keep it in original condition for many years I would consider synthetic. I suppose rebuilding a Ferrari V-12 is something I would want to put off as long as possible. But since that isn't in my future, I doubt I will ever be doing it.
Rich