Hesitation off idle
OK TELL ME THIS... WHEN YOUR CAR( THAT HAS CLOGED FUEL INJECTORS) WAS IDLING WAS IT MESSED UP! AND DID IT HESITATE WHEN YOU WENT DOWN THE ROAD. BECASUE THIS IS WHAT I DONT UNDERSTAND IF IT IS A FUEL INJECTOR THEN WHEY WOULD IT BE MESSED UP AT LOWER SPEEDS BUT WORK FINE AT HIGH SPEEDS AND WOT.ABOOVE (80MPH) SOME ONE PLEASE EDUCATE ME
I think that it is possible that part of it could also be your timing chain. I took mine off of my 95 z with 94 k on it, and it was very loose. I know that you would rather not mess with that, but you would just wiggle the crap out of mine, and it had tons of slack. There are only three things that bogging or hesitation could be: spark, fuel, or timing. Or air, but I doubt that is it. I think that it might just be a big combination of the three. as parts become old they become less efficent. I would try getting the injectors professionally cleaned though. Who knows, it might fix it. Good luck.
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95 White t-top Z28 M6 Mods include: Macs w/ offroad pipe, flowmaster, airfoil, TB bypass, !EGR, !AIR, !CAGS and a hurst short throw shifter. Many more to come. I will have some times after I break in my motor.
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95 White t-top Z28 M6 Mods include: Macs w/ offroad pipe, flowmaster, airfoil, TB bypass, !EGR, !AIR, !CAGS and a hurst short throw shifter. Many more to come. I will have some times after I break in my motor.
At higher rpms your fuel pump increases the psi. Thats why it happens.
Do all of you guys have high mileage?
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'93 Camaro Z28 Automatic with a ZL1 hood.
No bottle.
No blower.
383 cubic inch serving of horsepower...hold the rice please.
Thats all you need to know.
ICQ: 23984221
Gripenfelter's Homepage
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed by me are not necessarily supported or indicative of the Government of Canada or any other Federal Employee.
Do all of you guys have high mileage?
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'93 Camaro Z28 Automatic with a ZL1 hood.
No bottle.
No blower.
383 cubic inch serving of horsepower...hold the rice please.
Thats all you need to know.
ICQ: 23984221
Gripenfelter's Homepage
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed by me are not necessarily supported or indicative of the Government of Canada or any other Federal Employee.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Gripenfelter:
At higher rpms your fuel pump increases the psi. Thats why it happens.
Do all of you guys have high mileage?
</font>
At higher rpms your fuel pump increases the psi. Thats why it happens.
Do all of you guys have high mileage?
</font>
yours?
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Adam in Hurst TX
95TA M6 Borla Cat Back
!TB,!MAF,Ripper,Tuner Cat
HP160, UD pulley,CAI
Best 1/4 13.79 101.4
my car has 55,000 miles on it! And i thought that the fuel preshure is always the same with the presure regulator and the fmu unit on my car.I have 2 fuel pumps, i dont know anymore . im about to give up! timming chain. who knows maybe. but you would think that if my timming is off that it would show big time in the upper rpms but that is when it runs the best.
Ok, I just scanned my car and got 3 damn codes...28, 32, and 46. Maybe these will give some idea of what the problem may be related to. BTW, my car has 99k on it..
"code 28:
3rd gear switch.
OR
Quad-Driver module or Quad-driver No. 3 error(Corvette)
OR
(Transmission) Fluid pressure switch assembly - open or short circuit problems.
code 32:
Barometric pressure(BARO) sensor circuit failure.
OR
Exhaust gas recirculation(EGR) valve diagnostic switch - closed during engine start-up or open when EGR flow requested by ECM.
OR
EGR/EVRV
code 46:
Vehicle anti-theft system (VATS) failure.
OR
Power steering pressure switch failure."
I think my lock cylinder is bad which indacates code 46. Any ideas on the others?
"code 28:
3rd gear switch.
OR
Quad-Driver module or Quad-driver No. 3 error(Corvette)
OR
(Transmission) Fluid pressure switch assembly - open or short circuit problems.
code 32:
Barometric pressure(BARO) sensor circuit failure.
OR
Exhaust gas recirculation(EGR) valve diagnostic switch - closed during engine start-up or open when EGR flow requested by ECM.
OR
EGR/EVRV
code 46:
Vehicle anti-theft system (VATS) failure.
OR
Power steering pressure switch failure."
I think my lock cylinder is bad which indacates code 46. Any ideas on the others?
Someone help the boy out here, he may be on to something... As for some of you with your bogging on manual transmissions, see what kind of shape your clutch is in. It could give the feeling of a bog if it was slipping a little. I know this is not going to be most of your problems, but it might be a couple of people's problem. Good luck fixing it.
Just an idea but if you have access to a scanner take the car out for a run and do a diagnostic on it while you drive. After doing this 2 times i noticed my voltage was a little low under 2000rpm but the guage looked fine. Cleaned the terminals on the batttery and charged it overnight and it solved my hesitation.
Try testing the injectors. As I stated before i had similar problems and when i replaced the bad injector, it went away. You can get a tester from Sears for like 25 bukcs or have the dealer test it for you for like 50 bucks. If this does not solve the problem than at least it will tell if any injectors are on the way out hurting performance.
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by rckrzy1:
My fuel pressure is regulated to 43psi, aint
yours?
</font>
My fuel pressure is regulated to 43psi, aint
yours?
</font>
I have an electric fuel pressure guage on my A-pillar.
When I tap the gas I can see my fuel psi jump up.
OK i am going to go buy a fuel pres tester and check my fuel injectors also ill let you know what i find. I am hoping your right. one more question. LETS JUST SAY IT IS A FUEL INJECTOR FOR NOW. Why does it idle fine and the car runs fine untill it goes into closed loop.???? If it was an injector would it not act up even when the car is first started and drove. Please tell me i am wrong. i would love to here that it may be a fuel injector. Thanks
Phew. Long thread.
I have very slightly noticed the same thing, but it's really not bad enough to even worry about for me.
However. I have only noticed it with the A/C on. My volt meter hovers around 13V with the AC and the amp/stereo on. Wonder if it's the alt not being as efficient as it should be when hot, or belt slipping?
I have very slightly noticed the same thing, but it's really not bad enough to even worry about for me.
However. I have only noticed it with the A/C on. My volt meter hovers around 13V with the AC and the amp/stereo on. Wonder if it's the alt not being as efficient as it should be when hot, or belt slipping?


