Hesitation off idle
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Loony-Z:
I have that same problem, but its not what you think. Its the transmission. I have my trans go bad a few weeks ago from overheating. I was running my car pretty hard one day against some stangs(they didnt stand a chance!) and it was like 95 degrees outside. It starts revving really high and if you put it in neutral and give it a lil gas it goes down. I check my trans fluid and it said it was way hot. I'm thinkin I need a trans cooler or some better fluid.
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I have that same problem, but its not what you think. Its the transmission. I have my trans go bad a few weeks ago from overheating. I was running my car pretty hard one day against some stangs(they didnt stand a chance!) and it was like 95 degrees outside. It starts revving really high and if you put it in neutral and give it a lil gas it goes down. I check my trans fluid and it said it was way hot. I'm thinkin I need a trans cooler or some better fluid.
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its your fpr (fuel pressure regulator) to check it, you unplug the hose from the top of the fpr and see if theres qas on the hose. Car has to be off to do this.
Hope this helps it solved my Problem
Hope this helps it solved my Problem
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by phoenix64:
This is why I love my 3.8. But seriously my friend has a 95 that has a serious stutter at just about any rpms. but its more pronounced at below 1500 in high gear. I've also noticed that when the car sits at idle there is a slight, and competly random pop from the exaust, every few seconds, that you can hear and feel. Its really too bad the car was really fast. but now its kind of dissapointing. Also his voltmeter sits right on the edge of the red and his idle goes from 1000-1500. please help.
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This is why I love my 3.8. But seriously my friend has a 95 that has a serious stutter at just about any rpms. but its more pronounced at below 1500 in high gear. I've also noticed that when the car sits at idle there is a slight, and competly random pop from the exaust, every few seconds, that you can hear and feel. Its really too bad the car was really fast. but now its kind of dissapointing. Also his voltmeter sits right on the edge of the red and his idle goes from 1000-1500. please help.
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I spun a main bearing and had to rebuild the entire motor. Did a stroker.
But check the MAP, TPS, IAC, and MAF sensors first by swapping them in from a car you know works well. Save time and swap the throttle body, then Maf and Map.
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'93 Camaro Z28 Automatic with a ZL1 hood.
No bottle.
No blower.
383 cubic inch serving of horsepower...hold the rice please.
Thats all you need to know.
ICQ: 23984221
Gripenfelter's Homepage
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed by me are not necessarily supported or indicative of the Government of Canada or any other Federal Employee.
[This message has been edited by Gripenfelter (edited July 18, 2002).]
tps sensor does fit. ordered it. keep ya posted.
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1994 Green/Grey matalic Camaro Z28 !CAGS-CAI-Ported MAF-AZSM 52mm TB-1LE Elbow-UD Pullies-Ported MAF-HI-6 + LX92 Coil-B&M Ripper-RKSport Headers-SLP Y Pipe-Random Tech Cat-Borla Cat Back-160 Therm-'98 Front Brakes-Eibach Pro Kit W/Blistein
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1994 Green/Grey matalic Camaro Z28 !CAGS-CAI-Ported MAF-AZSM 52mm TB-1LE Elbow-UD Pullies-Ported MAF-HI-6 + LX92 Coil-B&M Ripper-RKSport Headers-SLP Y Pipe-Random Tech Cat-Borla Cat Back-160 Therm-'98 Front Brakes-Eibach Pro Kit W/Blistein
MY PROBLEM IS NO LONGER....I REPLACED MY O2 SENSORS AND NOW THE CAR IS PERFECT AGAIN. THE FUNNY THING IS THAT THEY SHOWED UP ON MY SCANNER AS BEING FINE. I PUT NEW ONES IN JUST BECASUE I HAVE ALL READY REPLACED EVERTHING ELSE. I DO KNOW ONE THING . I HAD A BURNT WIRE BAD COIL AND A PLUGED FUEL FILTER ALL AT THE SAME TIME. I belive that it is a combonation of problems that some of you guys are having. Good luck
i have the slight hesitation under 2k and the outright shut the damn key off miss over 5k but i just got my car back from the warranty covered opti replacement an the low rpm hes. is gone but the over 4500 or so is worse im odering all new plugs and wires again THIS car ran great until i had the head and intake off 5 months ago and installed those dam MSD wires, i do have one wire arcing and one dirty at the opti wire so does (ANYBODY HERE THINK I SHOULD GO BACK WITH THE FACTORY WIRES>>>>???? oh yeah everyone i just ordered a new ICM delco. $63.91 cost ill put it in first just to see results? I can always return it to my delco distributor maybe that will confirm some ideas OH YEAH WERE IS THE MAP HARNESS??
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94 T/A LT1 A4
SOME MODS,KINDA QUICK
times- C-YA AT THE TRACK!!
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94 T/A LT1 A4
SOME MODS,KINDA QUICK
times- C-YA AT THE TRACK!!
Ok, this is weird as all hell....my car had the whole hesitation problem blah blah blah. I was drivin the other day, had the hesitation goin' on, stopped to fill up with gas on a near empty tank, definately below 1/4 tank, I stop at a Speedystop Exxon station, fill up, and the whole problem is gone when I start my car back up. Don't ask how or why, I couldn't tell you, seriously, the hesitation problem is probably a good 85% gone. I think mayble it might be something to do with the fuel pump. A common problem with f-bodies, or at least I've been told, is an innacurate fuel gauge. When I first bought my car I ran it out of gas twice before I figured my miles per tank. If the problem comes back when my tank gets low, more likely than not it's my fuel pump...
I was having a very slight idle problem and a miss at lower rpms. once in a while, it disappeared and acted fine. I put a scanner on it and found the injector pulse width and the o2 readings where different between the left and right side. I also had a popping out of the right side exhaust. After checking the plugs and wires along with the compression, the problem came back. I swapped o2s and the problem went to the other side. Put in a new o2 and it runs great!! I guess there is such a thing as a lazy o2 sensor which must have been the case. I'm happy
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Cranberry Red 69
SS Convertible
95 LT-1 / 4L60E
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Cranberry Red 69
SS Convertible
95 LT-1 / 4L60E
hmmm,
ya know,
I ran my car out of gas all the way TWICE right after I got it too. My fuel pump isnt whining or anything but I wonder if it could be going bad?
I dont know if this would explain the whole problem though, and it also doesnt account for the heat issue. Oh well,
TTT!!
Any help guys?
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1997 30th Anniversary Z28
Exterior: Arctic White with Hugger Orange Stripes
Interior: Arctic White Leather with Embroidered 30th Anv Emblem.
17x9.5 17x11 ZR1's
LS1 Aluminum Driveshaft,
BMR Adjustable PHB, Moroso CAI,
CSI Electric Water Pump, 1LE Intake Bellows
http://filonic.fbody.com
ya know,
I ran my car out of gas all the way TWICE right after I got it too. My fuel pump isnt whining or anything but I wonder if it could be going bad?
I dont know if this would explain the whole problem though, and it also doesnt account for the heat issue. Oh well,
TTT!!
Any help guys?
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1997 30th Anniversary Z28
Exterior: Arctic White with Hugger Orange Stripes
Interior: Arctic White Leather with Embroidered 30th Anv Emblem.
17x9.5 17x11 ZR1's
LS1 Aluminum Driveshaft,
BMR Adjustable PHB, Moroso CAI,
CSI Electric Water Pump, 1LE Intake Bellows
http://filonic.fbody.com
Well after noticing a hesitation I decided to check my wires to see if they were arching. I went out to my car tonight to and I saw something kinda weird. When the car was idleing I could actually see the spark moving through My 4 month old taylor wires and within the boots. The sparks weren't exposed, they were all covered up. I could also see blue light around the coil. I saw the blue light on almost all the wires when idleing but when i revved it up would go away. What causes this?
In an earlier post I listed all I had replaced and done. Soon as I get a chance I am going to replace the knock sensor, its cheap and easy to change. I have not seen any mention of anybody trying this. My stumble appeared at about 55000 miles. After following this thread I am beginning to have visions of a carb and conventional distributer. I have access to a machine shop, and plans for a belt drive HEI.
93Z M6 RED
B&M Shifter
egr, tbb, offroad pipe
low speed stumble
93Z M6 RED
B&M Shifter
egr, tbb, offroad pipe
low speed stumble
Seabat, a belt drive HEI would be very interesting!? too bad you need a carb. or you go with TPIS mini-ram, maybe. just my .02.
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1994 Green/Grey matalic Camaro Z28 !CAGS-CAI-Ported MAF-AZSM 52mm TB-1LE Elbow-UD Pullies-Ported MAF-HI-6 + LX92 Coil-B&M Ripper-RKSport Headers-SLP Y Pipe-Random Tech Cat-Borla Cat Back-160 Therm-'98 Front Brakes-Eibach Pro Kit W/Blistein
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1994 Green/Grey matalic Camaro Z28 !CAGS-CAI-Ported MAF-AZSM 52mm TB-1LE Elbow-UD Pullies-Ported MAF-HI-6 + LX92 Coil-B&M Ripper-RKSport Headers-SLP Y Pipe-Random Tech Cat-Borla Cat Back-160 Therm-'98 Front Brakes-Eibach Pro Kit W/Blistein
Just to chime in, I have the same problem, also when letting off the gas when moving, such as to slow down, or cruising, it seems to run a little rough, like you can feel it surge every once in a while... when you get on the accelerator, it goes away. This too only when the car is warm...
ttt
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1997 30th Anniversary Z28
Exterior: Arctic White with Hugger Orange Stripes
Interior: Arctic White Leather with Embroidered 30th Anv Emblem.
17x9.5 17x11 ZR1's
LS1 Aluminum Driveshaft,
BMR Adjustable PHB, Moroso CAI,
CSI Electric Water Pump, 1LE Intake Bellows
http://filonic.fbody.com
------------------
1997 30th Anniversary Z28
Exterior: Arctic White with Hugger Orange Stripes
Interior: Arctic White Leather with Embroidered 30th Anv Emblem.
17x9.5 17x11 ZR1's
LS1 Aluminum Driveshaft,
BMR Adjustable PHB, Moroso CAI,
CSI Electric Water Pump, 1LE Intake Bellows
http://filonic.fbody.com


