I switched to mobil1 synthetic and developed the famous intake manifold leak(maybe because of the smaller molecule size in synthetic oil?), I have yet to fix it, I wonder if it might be creating a vacuum leak as you say. Anyone have experience with this? Anyone noticed any change in performance after repairing the leak?

 

also,
no I have NOT hooked up a scanner to my car and I plan to do so very soon. Hopefully I can eliminate the possibility of knock retard using this.
My car is an A4 and only has 32k miles on it.
Would I be jumping the gun changing out the coil being that its so new? Ever since I got the intake manifold leak there is definitely oil dripping onto my wires near the opti, so I dont know where else it might be getting also, so that could be part of the issue if its electrical. It's all a mystery to me, anyways I have an appointment to get my AIR and EGR replaced at GM on wednesday morning so I'll know more by then. I guess I'll hold off on plugs and wires until after that. Also, I am kindof suspicious of the egr because of the difference in my exhaust sound. I used to be able to rev in neutral with no popping, now when I rev at neutral I get a series of pops. I guess an exhaust leak is possible, but i dont really know the symptoms of that and/or what would cause it, my exhaust is completely stock.
Thanks for any help
-Alex

------------------
1997 30th Anniversary Z28
Exterior: Arctic White with Hugger Orange Stripes
Interior: Arctic White Leather with Embroidered 30th Anv Emblem.
17x9.5 17x11 ZR1's
LS1 Aluminum Driveshaft,
BMR Adjustable PHB, Moroso CAI,
CSI Electric Water Pump, 1LE Intake Bellows
http://filonic.fbody.com

 

Originally posted by filonic:
"For one thing, you dont even know that we are all explaining the SAME problem!"

Thanks, I have it too as I already said earlier on page 3. But I only have it when I launch in low RPMs and only since I got stickier tires on the rear. So now I have to launch higher in the RPM band to offset the stickiness. Which is fine since it also means my 60ft times have dropped.

"And for another thing, if such was the case as you are saying, there would be NO explanation for the seemingly intermittent symptoms, the sensitivity to heat, OR the fact that I, along with MANY other people on this thread, didnt used to have this problem, and have acquired it somewhere along the line."

Actually if you read the thread you'd see some have it hot, others cold, some used to have it, others now have it... There is no constant except launch method, a low RPM pedal mash.

"I think I'll stick with my former plan of trying to eliminate possibilities until this is solved."

Err read the thread, I think you could assemble a whole car with what people have replaced to solve this problem. None of which made a permanent difference.

"Please dont come on here and tell us "your car is just slow stock, get a torque converter"."

Might also have noticed no one with sub 1.8s 60ft times or anyone with a stall converter has this problem. And hesitation has nothing to do with being slow, a 12s Z could hesitate just as easily. So before you go saying I'm wrong you might just jump in your car and try it first. I find it hard to believe you'd rather replace parts($$$) than try a few different launch techniques(Time). Let's put it this way, if you asked a guy running 11s all day long how to launch and it wasn't how you did it, wouldn't you at least try it that way?

Seta
PS:Turbo_Z is also right in that the LT1 loves cool, dry, high pressure air. Hot and humid definitely hurt overall performance but again overall not just on launch. As for your oil leak, if it isn't bad, it'll seal itself as the synthetic blend expands the seals to make up for removing the deposits that kept it sealed before. Shesh lots of replies while I type. Your leak is pretty bad if it's getting right to the front of the motor. No choice you need to have the intake fixed now. Anyway you can try what I suggest or you can call me names, really only hurting yourself since my hesitation was solved when I changed my driving style.

[This message has been edited by Seta (edited July 08, 2002).]

 

Seta is right, we all must launch above 2000 rpm and that will cure our car's woes. I personally do not feel like repacing my clutch every two months just because I have to mask the real problem with my car. For the rest of you who are really trying to solve your hesitation problem, mine was solved with changing the plug wires. I had almost new MSDs and couldn't find any real burns or anything, but I replaced them and it got better. Good luck.

------------------
'94 Black Z28
A4->M6 Swap
K&N CAI
Flowmaster cat back
High flow cat
Edelbrock Headers

Soon to Come-LT4 Hot Cam

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Seta:
[b]Originally posted by filonic:
"For one thing, you dont even know that we are all explaining the SAME problem!"

Thanks, I have it too as I already said earlier on page 2. But I only have it when I launch in low RPMs and only since I got stickier tires on the rear. So now I have to launch higher in the RPM band to offset the stickiness. Which is fine since it also means my 60ft times have dropped.

ummm... you say you have "it" my whole point is, HOW on earth cdould you possibly know that "IT" is the same thing on all of our cars? There HAS to be atleast a few people out of all of us who are describing an entirely different problem from the rest. Look at all the people on this board explaining the same symptoms that fixed various items that solved the problem. Just because you have experienced this problem only after putting sticky tires on doesnt mean anything. There are plenty of us here running street tires who have this problem, who didnt always have it. My car DIDN'T do this when I first got it, and now it DOES.

"And for another thing, if such was the case as you are saying, there would be NO explanation for the seemingly intermittent symptoms, the sensitivity to heat, OR the fact that I, along with MANY other people on this thread, didnt used to have this problem, and have acquired it somewhere along the line."

Actually if you read the thread you'd see some have it hot, others cold, some used to have it, others now have it... There is no constant except launch method, a low RPM pedal mash.

I did read the thread, the entire thread, a few times, before I ever posted. Seeing as how your answer to everything is that its "normal" and that we all just need to feather our clutches(m6) or get a high stall TC(A4), whats your explanation for the lack of consistency? If one car doesnt have it, and then gets it, and one car has it, and then loses it, how does your whole "drivetrain not yet spinning" theory come into play?. I think you should concentrate on the issue at hand instead of just saying ANYTHING to try to be right. And BTW, if youn had read the thread, and the various similar threads on the board, you would notice that its not really a mixed bag, by FAR the majority of people only have this issue when the car is hot. Read the posts, there are VERY few people having this problem when the car is cold as you say.

"I think I'll stick with my former plan of trying to eliminate possibilities until this is solved."

Err read the thread, I think you could assemble a whole car with what people have replaced to solve this problem. None of which made a permanent difference.

errr, I read the thread, did I say I was going to replace every part thats been listed in this thread? No, I said I was going to eliminate possibilities, which doesnt mean replacing every part until its fixed, it means investigating possibilities
until its fixed, including knock retard, vacuum leak, etc. And how is that you figure noone has made any permanent difference? I have seen a number of people who have solved this issue(or issues similar enough to be confused with this one as I pointed out above) with various fixes. Plugs, wires, opti, egr, coil, ALL have been replaced by people claiming that this went away subsequently. stop telling me to read the thread, I've read it, obviously you havent, you seem to have some interest in coming on here and writing epic tales about how there is nothign wrong with our cars, for what reason I dont know.

"Please dont come on here and tell us "your car is just slow stock, get a torque converter"."

Might also have noticed no one with sub 1.8s 60ft times or anyone with a stall converter has this problem.

1. How do you know there is noone with this problem that has a stall converter or runs sub 1.8 60ft's. 2. Even if thats so, SO WHAT? What is your point? That proves nothing...even if they did have this issue, a stall converter would treat the SYMPTOM, not the problem. By being out of the lower end of the rpm band when launching, this problem can be avoided, but that does NOT mean that a stall converter is the solution. And as far as 1.8 60 foots go, maybe you are right, maybe none of the guys pulling 1.8 60 foots have this problem....anyone pulling a 1.8 60 foot is probably launching well above the rpm range where this problem is apparent. Again, masking the problem, not solving the problem. If this is a flaw with the factory design, it would be present in all of our cars, not just the few of us on here talking about it.

And hesitation has nothing to do with being slow, a 12s Z could hesitate just as easily. So before you go saying I'm wrong you might just jump in your car and try it first.

I like it when you put words in my mouth....even a 12second z will run slower if it is hesitating....and I'd love to jump in my car and try it, but unfortunately brake stall doesnt do much for getting me up there in the RPM band, I start spinning way before then. I guess my car is fine, I just need a stall converter huh?? no...

I find it hard to believe you'd rather replace parts($$$) than try a few different launch techniques(Time). Let's put it this way, if you asked a guy running 11s all day long how to launch and it wasn't how you did it, wouldn't you at least try it that way?

again, I didnt say that, but what I tried to explain to you, is that launch technique has nothing to do with it. I didnt have the problem before, now I have it. Nothing has changed. Even if you are 100% right about my situation, it is just so completely silly of you to assume that your answer will solve the problems of every single person on this thread and/or the various other similar threads. Someone could have an exhaust leak, someone could have a sticking tps, someone could have a screwed up IAC, EGR, plugs, wires, opti, coil, etc, like I have already said. You seem to think you have the gift of telepathy or something. Any idiot on here could have explained their problem basly, or misinterpreted what someone else said. I personally could have easily done so. I could be talking about somthing completely different from all these other people too.


Seta
PS:Turbo_Z is also right in that the LT1 loves cool, dry, high pressure air. Hot and humid definitely hurt overall performance but again overall not just on launch. As for your oil leak, if it isn't bad, it'll seal itself as the synthetic blend expands the seals to make up for removing the deposits that kept it sealed before. Shesh lots of replies while I type. Your leak is pretty bad if it's getting right to the front of the motor. No choice you need to have the intake fixed now. Anyway you can try what I suggest or you can call me names, really only hurting yourself since my hesitation was solved when I changed my driving style.

thanks again for your infinite wisdom. Interesting about the oil leak, but btw, the reason its getting to the front is because the manifold is leaking a small amount from the front left hand side also, not just the rear. And yes, I am quite aware that the LT1 performs much better with cool, dry conditions, but like you said, thats overall performance, not initial hesitation.
You really need to rethink this driving style change thing. My driving style hasnt CHANGED, and I havent changed anything on my CAR, so its very simple logic, that something has changed with the CAR. That is not normal, that is the exact opposite of normal, heh. Changing my driving style, to try to accomodate a new problem with my car, is compltely ridiculous. Its that simple. Not to mention the fact that I can't change my driving style in the way you are suggesting, due to my brakes not holding.

wow, that was incredibly long...what a waste.

***** EDIT: Just had to edit to point out that the guy who posted before me just proved my whole dman point exactly. Masking problems, does not make them go away....it MASKS THEM...*****

------------------
1997 30th Anniversary Z28
Exterior: Arctic White with Hugger Orange Stripes
Interior: Arctic White Leather with Embroidered 30th Anv Emblem.
17x9.5 17x11 ZR1's
LS1 Aluminum Driveshaft,
BMR Adjustable PHB, Moroso CAI,
CSI Electric Water Pump, 1LE Intake Bellows
http://filonic.fbody.com

[This message has been edited by filonic (edited July 08, 2002).]

[This message has been edited by filonic (edited July 08, 2002).]

 

hehe, the sheer length of this thread is probably going to keep people from posting on here now...
great

 

Yeah, and if you two keep it up you will **** alot more people off by getting this thread locked.

take it to email or start another thread if if you want to argue your LT1 theories that don't have anything constructive to add.

My question to anyone still reading this thread is, do you think that the computer is running the engine too rich and that is what is causing this bogging effect? Would that cause the hesitation? Either there is an egr sticking problem and fooling it into thinking there is a lean condition, or it is something else that could be tricking it into thinking that there is something not right with the air flowing in or out of the motor.



[This message has been edited by 95 Z-28 LT1 (edited July 08, 2002).]

 

You guys???
What are you talking about?
I was on here discussing this issue and Seta came on and told us that we are all imagining our problems and that it is normal and we just need a converter or to launch higher and feather the clutch if we have a stick. I merely responded to his points and then responded again after he replied and made a bunch of rude comments. I think anyone who is actually reading this thread will realize that ALL i have been doing is trying to help figure this out for me and everyone else. There is no need to whine and attack me for defending the truth. The fact is that he is wrong, 100% wrong, he is suggesting that we all MASK our problem and denying that it is even a problem. So why dont you actually READ what I say before attacking me, or DONT attack me.

 

guys that don't have this problem just don't understand. try this unplug your MAF. i did this tonight. immediately i gained back my instantanious throttle repsonse. so i plugged it back in still seemed good. (scratching head). so i decided to clean MAF with electronics cleaner. let it warm up even more, hestitation was back. unplugged MAF hestitation gone. plugged it back in still gone???? now i do have autotap but i don't know how to test this to show the difference. this is just listening to the motor.

 

Who cares? Let it go, don't be a homo.



[This message has been edited by 95 Z-28 LT1 (edited July 09, 2002).]

 

Seta, man your not right... (well it seems to the point there may be a misunderstanding between the areas of Performance vs mechanics?)

Man, I turn my car on, 5 mins after it warms up under normal driving,(I cant always say its right at 5 mins, when its hot the engine gets hotter faster) when I come to a redlight ... IF I dont have my foot on the brakes really hard my car will literally LUNGE forward ... Ive got 450 hp... its really scary and embarrassing. I have to quickly place the car in neutral (Ive got A4) then the car seems to regulate itself back to normal, and YES my car is running rich. Someone suggested the Idle Air Valve?

Still looking for answers and kinda afraid to drive it until its SAFE for others in front of me.



[This message has been edited by usem (edited July 09, 2002).]

 

How many people have hesitation during a slow rollout? Like you would if you were behind traffic at a stop light? How many are hesitating when they mash the gas while in neutral? How many have a hesititaion from a rolling start? If you answered no to all of those then can we agree that you aren't having any sort of ignition, fuel or engine problem?

And filonic go read a book, any book about force, momentum, inertia and drag before you say that I'm 100% wrong. Once you've read up about how they affect each other, look at your car's major systems and imagine how these things are interacting during a soft launch, hard launch, cruising, high speed acceleration, low RPM, high RPM... And when you're done with that learn some manners. 95 Z-28 politely suggested we stop banging heads and you ripped him a new one. Not cool.

Those afraid mycarisfasterthanyours might be right about clutch wear from 2000RPM launches can sit down. 2000RPM clutch dumps let alone feathers won't even put a scratch on a clutch. If it did everyone with stalls would be poor bastards, all 4 cylinder car owners would be getting new clutches with every oil change and you wouldn't know about Bill Gates. You'd know about who ever owns StarSpec :P

Anyway besides being an assult on filonic and mycarisfasterthanyours the two previous paragraphs should have shone some light as to what is happening when you try to launch hard in a low force, high innertia situation.

Seta
PS:usem, got to love those mega HP, high idle, non stall, A4 strokers No hesitation problem for you, you got the no decelleration problems :P

 

Here may be some thing for you to think about.
I have a 96 a4 2.73 with a g2 cai, k&n, flowmaster muffler only & descreened maf with 12x,xxx miles owned since last oct.
Also auto xray to scan with.
Changed plugs with champion 7013(old plugs were really shot). Read knock that was intermitant, usually when warm. Drove me crazy trying to find it ,ran great cold but over 200f it is a dog. Finnaly knock got worse, was only when accelerating, then you could rev it in park and get reading.
used stethiscope and found noise coming from loose spark plugs. Tightened them up knock was gone back up to 200F.
Forgot to mention egr valve went bad so I also made a plate for it so I could still run the car.(too many things wrong at once but Im narrowening it down)
Im thinking the plugs couldnt transfer enough heat when loose so they caused detonation,so here is my therorys so far :
1 carbon in cylinders raising comp ratio causing to much heat
2 champion double platinum plugs are crap
3 egr blocked off causing to much heat build up in cylinders
4 runing to lean (getting rich/lean lean/rich reading off of scanner sometimes,maybe because of no maf screen or restricted injectors?)


My possible solutions :
1 ordered egr today
2 swap plug brands (probly not to platinum)
3 colder plugs
4 try to find maf in junkyard
5 suggestions welcome


I really want to get this strait before I start any of my own mods (others were done before I got the car)
Maybe this will help someone

 

Well, I am not going to waste my time on this thread anymore. Seta, what the hell are you even arguing with? You are talking about things completely unrelated to everythign I said. I don't have the time, energy, or lack of self esteem that would be required to argue with you any further. I was impressed by your *** kissing and your attempt to turn that guy's attack around on me and act like an innocent bystander. You seem to be dead set on having a fight, instead of paying attention to the facts. You repeatedly make blanket statements about all of the people on this thread when MANY of them have found different solutions to their problem. If my car launches great for 6 months, and then all the sudden it hesitates at WOT, the solution is NOT to mask it by launching higher, its the most ridiculous thing I have ever heard anyone be so adamant about. Find someone who knows what the hell they are talking about to agree with you and I'll shut up, cause I know 6 people personally that own A4 4th gen camaros, and none of them, have this problem, 3 of them have driven my car.
And your friend certainly has manners doesnt he? He just called me a homo, do you see me being childish and calling names? No...because I am just trying to fix my car, and you seem to be unwilling to accept the fact that all of us know, you are wrong, completely. Its that simple....
like I said before, I dont doubt that you are right that doing the things you said(launching at higher rpm in stick, stall converter for auto) will eliminate the symptoms of this problem, I just dont care. Why would I want to do something that is going to eliminate a SYMPTOM of a problem without eliminating the PROBLEM....I sure as hell wouldnt want you working on my car.
Why dont you just leave this thread, considering you have NO useful information of any kind to add, and you don't have the problem anymore. And lastly, grow up....

------------------
1997 30th Anniversary Z28
Exterior: Arctic White with Hugger Orange Stripes
Interior: Arctic White Leather with Embroidered 30th Anv Emblem.
17x9.5 17x11 ZR1's
LS1 Aluminum Driveshaft,
BMR Adjustable PHB, Moroso CAI,
CSI Electric Water Pump, 1LE Intake Bellows
http://filonic.fbody.com

 

Hey Guys,

I think we need to chill out a little here. Everyone is trying to help out. Feel free to post your opinions about what is wrong but do NOT personally attack someone else (like calling them a "homo", etc.) just because you think they are wrong. If you believe a reply to be in error you can reply that you don't agree but there really is no need to be childish and throw insults.

There is some good info in here so lets please try to chill out so I don't have to close this one.

Thanks!


------------------
Brent Franker * Main Page
94 Vortech Z28 * 96 Z28 SS #1655
4th Gen Appearance Modification Guide
F-Body Install & Fix-It Guides