um...i dont think so. when you unplug your MAF, you put you car into what is called "speed density" mode. in sd, you car can only estimate how much air is entering your engine by combining the information of 3 specific sensors(IAT, MAP, TPS?) where as your MAF is a direct calculation from a single sensor making it much simpler IMO but keep em coming


i fashioned 2 brackets yesterday to hold my coil and module off the head about 1 1/2" so it wouldnt get as much heat soak but that did absolutely nothing. i think i might relocate my IAT sensor to my CAI today to see if that helps. my reasoning behind this would be the fact that when sitting in traffic, the sensor gets heat soaked making the computer think the air entering your engine is hotter(seen as much as 80* more) than it really is which ultimately causes some timing to be pulled by the PCM and thats a power killer for all who dont know.

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1997 Z28 M6
T-tops, chrome rims, all options, SLP Dual/Dual, cutout, !CAGS, FIPK, LT4 KM, Air Foil, TB bypass, pro 5.0, TR55s, OBD1, !EGR, !AIR, CSI waterpump, 160* thermostat, 1LE intake elbow, PCM tuning by, www.PCMFORLESS.com , taylors, singe-cat SLP shorties minus the cat!

 

I have tried to unplug my maf. The car stalls out. And it will not start with out it pluged in...I am also leaning twards pcm problems!!!One other symtom I am having is the car backfires very badly now. What i dont understand it that once i get the car over 80 miles an hour it runs fine. I did 150 in it yesterday no problem. But the think will not idle right (200-600) rpms.And when i go down the road it will surge up and down, mostly down and if i flutter the gas pettel it will slowly recover somtimes. I put it on a scanner and i am seening that the car is leaning out to a negative 40 at idle. ANY IDEAS GUYS?????????

 

changed plugs to AC's (non platinum) stock heat range also and my detionation/knock retard dissapeared. see my post above for problems. Runs strong again

 

I am just wondering since some people are thinking this maybe a MAF related problem are there any 93 guys having this problem? I bet this could be MAF related i thought my MAF was good until i got a scanmaster and noticed i had blm's in the 108 range i replaced the MAF and they were in the 120's again the MAF never set a code it just must of been going bad or something. I would suggest to all of you guys to just try unplugging your MAF and see the problem goes away. Just an idea and it doesn't cost you anything to try but time.

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1995 Z28 m6
FIPK, !CAGS, !AIR, !EGR, !MAF descreen, !Cat straight pipe, Hurst Billet Plus shifter, TB bypass, LT4 KM, Airfoil, Borla catback, 160 stat', SLP shorties

 

Anyone here of this: Part# CEI-102017 at summit racing. Made by Casper's Electronics, it is a calibrator to correct for the off idle hesitation of late model cars. it goes on the TPS. when the TB is open past 70%, it advances timing and increases A/F ratio. Anyone want to give it a whirl?

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1994 Green/Grey matalic Camaro Z28 !CAGS-CAI-Ported MAF-AZSM 52mm TB-1LE Elbow-UD Pullies-Ported MAF-HI-6 + LX92 Coil-B&M Ripper-RKSport Headers-SLP Y Pipe-Random Tech Cat-Borla Cat Back-160 Therm-'98 Front Brakes-Eibach Pro Kit W/Blistein

 

I had the same problem but mine went away. This may sound dumb but heres my story and how I fixed it.
I was having the same hesitation when the car was hot and thejumping forward. I was also having an overheating problem. The gauge read 240. I persued the heat problem thinking it was causing the problem. I replaced all of my coolant and the sensors. The thing still read hot but my mechanic tested it and found the gauge was bad. In the process I changed my temp sensors, coolants and installed a manual fan switch so it wouldnt run so hot at idle. I also ran a tank full of fuel injector cleaner (because I did a regular 3000 mile service) and then the problem was gone. I dont really know why but it is gone. I never let my car hit 190 or 200 and I dont falsly overheat anymore. I guess because it doesnt get hot or as hot that it stopped. The fixes I tried were very simple and cheap, but they worked for me.

I never changed my wires, plugs opti or other. Just my sensors the fan switch, the cleaner the coolants and that solved it. This is just what solved my problem. Sorry all of you still have yours. (It sucked)

 

ok FINALLY i finished reading all 5 pages, haha. In reponse to Z95m6, I'd like to think this problem isn't MAF related. I have a '93Zm6 and my car bogs like a ****. I won't waiste anyone's time repeating all the symptoms becuase I think I have them memorized word for word now after the first 3 pages. A while back my water pump bit the dust, and consequently my opti went out as well. While this was happening, I had a power loss and was backfiring in upper RPM's, and hesitated/bogged as well. Upon replacing the WP and opti, I said screwit and put in a set of NGK TR55's and new plug wires as well as belt. It fixed all problems except the hesitation. I threw a K&N FIPK on a couple days ago, that helped a little, but I think just becuase I have a little more power...it by no means solved the problem. I'm probably going to do LT1Brutus's suggested fix here in the next night or two. Also, no fireworks to my knowldge. All in all, obviously my car has no MAF and therefore I don't believe this problem is MAF related, however I could be wrong. heheheh, I bought a little 30 or 40 dollar scanner the other day and threw that beotch on and it came up with code28 and something else, I can't remember. I'll do it again write down the two codes and what they indicate. Sorry for the long post, I'll be around for input or any new information.

 

Forgot to mention, ran injector cleaner and new O2's within the last couple weeks...no solution.

 

The pcm has an 8 year warranty it. I am for sure of this because the dealership replaced mine a few months ago when they where trying to find out what is wrong with my car. The new pcm still didn`t fix the hesitation problem.

 

Hello Everybody,
I've been having a similar problem. My car has a hesitation at idle speed and its reving at 500rpm's. I have stock cam and rockers and only bolt-ons. I took it to the dealership because I have replaced the egr valve, optispark, plugs, plug wires, o2's and coil, but she still idle's bad when she's cold and at stops. Here's what's on their report: Clean carbon from IAC and IAC port, Clean carbon from TBI boresand reset main A.I.R. Well, it still has the hesitation at idle. They didn't replace the old IAC which is probably what I need to do and also clean the MAF. I have about 130,000 miles on my Impala, yes Impala, we too are having the same hesitation problem you guys are experiencing, I posting here hoping to find a solution and figure out why our LT1's do this. Is anybody with a stock car also having this problem?

Later,
Mag

 

My hessitation was the opti... I fixed one of the wires that had a damaged end, and end to my miss... I changed my PCM as I suggested earlier and all my problems were solved...

One other thing guys.. Check for unconnected grounds or so... If the computer heats up a bit it will not complete the circuit correctly...

THe hessitation on LT1 (THIS IS A GUESS!!! SO NO FLAMES PLEASE) is because sometimes simple components as the AIR, fuel pump and other that run through relays, are a bit fauylty causing the computer to heat up the circuit and the PCM and not beeing able to complete other circuits as the ignition.

That is why when the car gets a few thousand miles some cables wear out and bad grounds exist... This a guess on what happened to me...

My very specific problem was that I had my supply for my Electric water pump from the fuse box. I was not using the relay... So that was what was making my computer heat up too much and not firing the ignition circuit later on... That damaged my coil and probably my opti too...

I made the connection of the electric waterpump the way it should and everything perfect now... Hope this help someone...

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94B4C M6
Finishing project
Borla Competition--
AFR Heads
383 + Paxton Supercharger

 

well i just put the new computer in from pcm for less.........did not help. now the car stalls right out. This is a MOTHER FUC#ING PAIN IN THE @SS. 2 MONTHS 1 THOUSAND DOLLARS LATER AND STILL NOTHING....FOR THE LOVE OF GOD SOME ONE HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP.....ANY ONE LIVE IN NY ..... ILL PAY YOU TO FIX MY CAR. 3 SHOPS HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIX IT.. .. .. email me if you would like

 

I fixed my problem. Sent out my fuel injectors to TPIS and that fixed me right up. The fuel injectors were clogged.

 

Damn...2 secs too late.

One of my friends had that problem.

CHanged his fuel regulator and fuel injectors.

Problem went away.



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'93 Camaro Z28 Automatic with a ZL1 hood.
No bottle.
No blower.
383 cubic inch serving of horsepower...hold the rice please.
Thats all you need to know.
ICQ: 23984221
Gripenfelter's Homepage

Disclaimer: The opinions expressed by me are not necessarily supported or indicative of the Government of Canada or any other Federal Employee.

 

VERY VERY easy to test this theroy. Does it bog when first started? If no then maybe,
if yes then it's not O2's because they are not used open loop.


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Adam in Hurst TX
95TA M6 Borla Cat Back
!TB,!MAF,Ripper,Tuner Cat
HP160, UD pulley,CAI
Best 1/4 13.79 101.4