I have been in this site for a couple of years now and this problem has never been solved,i think I am one of the lucky one's for never having this problem (knock on wood) I have 80k on my car I am not sure what milage this starts at but i was wondering,does everyone have headers or noticed it after a header install, I sure hope not because my MAC'S are going on tomorow, just a thought. Good luck in finding this very strange hesitation problem.

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94 Z28 M6 3.42'S,SLP CAI & TB AIR FOIL,SLP CLUTCH ASSY,MAC SHORTIES,BORLA C/B,HI FLOW CAT,160 STAT,TB BYPASS,SLP PULLEYS,EIBACH PRO KIT,LT4KM,HURST SHORT THROW,ALLUMINUM DRIVE SHAFT,17"ZR1 POLISHED WHEELS,F1 SPOILER,MORE TO COME...

 

I found out for sure that my prob is clutch related.... i think that when i read this stuff my mind starts to wonder what's going on with my car so one thing can feel like another.... anyway, i was going to a friend's house the other day and when i went to pull in his driveway i saw that he was not home.. i pulled in and backed out and mashed on the gas (he lives on a long road out in the middle of nowhere) and when i punched it my RPMs flew up and the car really didn't pick up speed! this is the FIRST time it has done this but i'm sure that it has been slipping just enough to cause a loss of power at the rear.... i have sorta known it was the clutch just because i really don't have to push down on the clutch much at all (it was never that much different but after 5 years with the car i know when something is a bit off)

i have had my car at pontiac on the computer with no bad readings and none of the other sings like knock or anything.. but the strange thing is that it does seem to slip less when it's cooler out and more when the car heats up... i really don't get why that would be???

so, those of you with the M6 you really could have a clutch job in the near future....

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1995 Firebrid Formula M6: hurst shifter w/ Lou's short stick, !CAGS,!MAF, !TB, K&N FIPK, 1LE intake elbow, Borla catback, LT4 KM, 1300w sound system.

pic: 95 Formula

 

i challenge all who are having this problem to look under their hood at night for any glowing plugs or wires. lastnight i did this to try and solve other problems and i found my coil wire had a flash in it, and many of my plug wires were either arching at the boot or grounding to whatever they were touching causing a glow within the wire. i am in the process of ording all new wires and am gonna find a way to insulate all the wires surrounding the coil and see if this makes any difference BUT b/c this will take a week or longer, i think we should all have a look to see if any wires are shorting or arching to get a ruling on this sooner. also dont give this a 2 sec peek, you must LOOK hard cause it took me maybe 10 min before i actually got adjusted to the dark enough to notice them and it was pitch black out.

 

Just a quick question. How many of you guys have replaced or done computer upgrades. My car will not even idel right or go down the road with out dying and i have replace everything other than my opti spark. Used a scanner and No codes other than hi reading on MAF. The supercharger is sucking more air than that thing was ever ment to read. Well anyways my computer comes tommorw or thursday. Ill let you know if this helps. PlEASE NO MORE LONG A$$ KID FIGHTS WE ARE ALL IN THIS ONE TOGETHER AND I KNOW I NEED ALL THE HELP I CAN GET. Dont let this post die.................................

 

There is alot of useful information in this thread but I must admit though, this hesitation, stumbeling, sputtering, etc is extremely frustrating. I was retracing back when my problems started and I just want to shoot this by everyone to see... The commonalities I am seeing are MAF descreening and or porting, car running richer and hotter, and of course the surging... I am curious if its either the ported/descreened MAF or the dirt on the MAF wires causing the sensor to malfunction? Thus throwing the entire cars settings off causing surging? But why then when I take it out of gear (neutral A4) does everything seem to regulate. Maybe you folks who are putting on new MAFs and cleaning them could shed some more light? Maybe it helped your problems?
(We should have this "part" recalled with a petition or when we find it, tell GM)
Definately Im gonna check plugs and wires again...BTW, I dont have any programming on my computer yet BUT when my mechanic dropped the ECU down, he noticed the origional "chip" was loose and almost fell out in his hand!? He said wierd for my car cause my car's year has no chip removed (later model year engine like 9 or 11th month of 1994)... SO maybe my chip is bad...Maybe the guy before me tried to re-sodder a newer chip in after removing the old one...either way we checked the numbers on the "chip" thats in there now and its a factory GM part number - 16177700 1054106

Thanks!

 

I think you may be on to something here. My MAF is ported/descreened too. Previous owner did it.

 

i just cleaned mine. did not help. but it is de- screened. I also put a cage out next to my car with some food in it. I am hopiing to catch the gremlin if he comes out to eat.

 

I had this problem in my L98 TPI. The first time the car would suge while i was stopped and the RPM would bang up there. It seemed to do it less when it was cold than hot. Plus iI noticed it had less power up to about 2k and just did not seem to have it. The TQ was bad. Had it rebuilt problem gone.
The second time it did, the same thing but no surging, but the rpms would surge, not the car. This one drove me crazy for a while. Replaced eveything. Then i tested the Injectors and they were bad. after I replaced the bad one it was ok
Hope this helps, just tellin you what I did for my problem

 

Jkicak: Its my understanding that once a diaphram style clutch starts to slip it will totally slip, and the hotter it gets the easier it slips (versus a Borg and Beck style).

My clutch first started to slip at the drag strip. I notice that if I let the car cool and omitted any dry hops (avoiding any heat build up in the clutch) it slipped less.

Of couse now its totally shot and I am awaiting an LT1 throwout bearing (man, they are expensive) to install a new clutch.

Lance

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95 Z28 M6 (CFFB #19)
FEELUKY
Susp: Kenny Brown Level II, 2001 SS wheels.
Eng: SLP headers, LT1 Hotcam, CAI, and other minor stuff.

90 Vette Z51 MN6
406 in the works.

 

My '94 is stock except for a K&N Filtercharger, and relocated IAT sensor. These modes were performed at 40K (car now has 170k), and no hesitation was observed till after 80K. I've run Mobil 1 synthetic since 15k, which probably has aggravated my intake oil leak problem. MAF is stock, not ported or descreened in any way. I always clean the MAF a couple hundred miles after I clean and oil the K&N, just in case I over-oil it and contaminate the MAF.

My hesitation occurs during normal, everyday driving, not just hard launches. My clutch does not slip during this hesitation, I've watched the tach closely.

I'm tempted to take it to the local dealer and see if they have any experience with this issue - they have been fairly decent regarding previous work.

 

HOW DO YOU CHECK THE FUEL INJECTORS TO SEE IF THEY ARE BAD.??????? THIS IS ONE OF THE ONLY THINGS I HAVE NOT CHECKED. AND I JUST GOT AN EMAIL FROM BRIAN AT PCMFOR LESS AND MY COMPUTER IS NOT COMMING FOR ANOTHER DAY. SO I GOT TIME TO PLAY....SORRY ABOUT THE CAPS. BUT I LIKE THEM

 

Well, Im not totally sure what problem I have? Ive read all of your threads and some dont pertain to me yet some others sound very familiar. But this is my story...
Last April, the car ran perfect, nothing to complain. And than, after I got my new tires put on, and changed the wires and plugs, I noticed that the car would not spin the tires as good as it used too. Dont get me wrong, I know the new tires plays somewhat of a role, but I replaced them with the same brand and size as the last ones. So I took it the dealership and had it checked out. Their reply was that the clutch was getting bad. So I replaced that. Still no fix to the problem. ???? I have not a clue what the problem is. She starts up fine when I need it, and it still runs good and doesnt sound any different, but the symptoms still stand, I cant even get a chirp out of 2nd gear anymore. BTW the car only has 57,xxx miles on it. Ive double checked the wires and plugs again, changed out the coil, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the MAF....?? what gives

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97-Z28
M6-Hurst-CAGS-Flowmaster-3" Cut-out-K&N FIPK-BMR strut bar-Holley 52mm TB/bypass-airfoil-8mm Taylor Spiro Pro wires-NGK plugs-HPP3/160 deg. stat

 

How can I find out if there has been any recalls on my car? Is there a website I can look on or someone that I can call?

 

I went through the service manual and found out a way of testing the ICM. One of the possibe solutions was that the PCM was bad...

As heat rises... computer components make mistakes... With time... the computer will not cool itself as well as it did...

My problem is worse to a degree... when the car warms itself for awhile (only 190F) it will not start... If I let it cool off a bit it will start again with the slight miss...

I removed the igntion coil and module and reapplied the thermal grease to it. I installed it (THe car was warm but the ICM and coil were cool) the car didn't start...

I am leaning towards my PCM.. Mine is remanufactured... so that might explain a bit..



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94B4C M6
Finishing project
Borla Competition--
AFR Heads
383 + Paxton Supercharger

 

i'm also leaning towards computer problem. they usually seem to process slower and generally having more problems with heat. has anyone ever tried to relocate it? also has anyone tried my little test by unplugging the maf? my reasoning here is without the maf the way i understand it is that the motor then runs off set tables which would mean the computer doen't have to think.increasing the process time.