Why spend the money? there is nothing in windex that will harm the sensor, and by the way thats what JR uses on his...at least thats what he told me at the PRI show two years ago. But what do I know?

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94Z,A4,FLOWMASTER,HOMEMADE CAI. 72 BIGBLOCK CHEVELLE 11.86@114MPH N/A. 90C1500 GMC MANY MODS,N20,12.47@117. 1930 MODEL A PICKUP ROD 12.86@112, 72OLDS 442 ALL STOCK 14.96@91. 55 AND 36 CHEVYS NOT DONE YET. AND SADDLY MISSED MY 99 C5FIXEDROOF 11.74@126MPH, N2O

 

I just did the mod that LT1Brutus defined in his post. More improvement, once engine temp is over 190 degrees response is much improved. Between this and the new temp sensor the stumble, hesitation is about 80% gone. If I wasnt familier with the car I might not even notice it.
Also after changing the temp sensor the engine runs slightly cooler, (I changed the one on the water pump) the fans come on at about the same time as before.
The mod from LT1Brutus is free, a new temp sensor cost me $8. This is a cheap place to start.
After thinking about the coil mount assembly some, it does seem rather strange to put a heat sink under an electronic module then bolt it solid to the engine where it can soak up heat.

93Z M6 RED
B&M Shifter
egr, tbb, offroad pipe

 

No offense, but I would rather use something designed for the task than using something made to clean windows.

Anyways, the relocation of the ignition module sound interesting. Maybe it will become the next new "free mod".

On the other hand, if you unhook your battery for a while, the computer resets itself and has to relearn the engine.

Possibly during this relearning phase it dosen't reckognize the actual problem right away fully and just runs according to its programming until it develops a tune.

Just my opinion though.

 

check your tps sensor on your TB. I had a bad hesitation off idle, i changed EVERYTHING. ended up being the voltage was reading too high and was dumping more fuel into the intake at partial throttle and making it stutter. 28.00$ and 10 min later, it ran perfect.

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1995 Black FIREHAWK #496 m6, lowered 2 inches...adjustable koni shocks/struts, Baer performance crossdrilled rotors/brake pads, subframe connectors, strut tower brace, bbk 52mm TB, HPP, 160stat, TB Bypass, LT4 KM, K/N, !MAF. Nitto DR's, star stage 3 carbon, hooker LT's with custom y-pipe(work of art), 150 shot nitrous works with purge and heater. Autometer guages(looks like flight of the navigator)

http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=188349

 

Well mine is hard to start and hesitates off the start, its not the puel filter i teseted that. LG told me to replace the PCV Valve im going to put in early tomorrow and ill tell ya what happens. If that dont work i bet its my fuel injectors. By the way i just replaced the erg valve and that thing wis covered in carbon. sooo ill do the pcv valve thing and post in the morning!

 

Well I've had that hesitation that you guys described, so I figured that changing my fuel filter couldn't hurt.
Well I did it tonight, and lets say my fuel filter was rusted out, and all the fuel that spilled out was black, or very dark, close to black, I just filled the tank, 4hrs before this so the gas was very "new".
I haven't drove the car yet to see if it solved the problem or not, but I can say I know that if that wasn't my problem, changing the fuel filter didn't hurt.
Thanks for the heads up to the members of CZ28!

 

I had similar problems. After search and searching I opened my hood at night and behold the fireworks. I changed my plug wires and have had no problems since.

 

if the TPS was the issue wouldn't the car have a messed up idle? seems to me if the TPS was going you would KNOW it!!! and what would the TPS have to do with probs with the car when it gets hot? if it was TPS the car would run like **** at any temp.....



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1995 Firebrid Formula M6: hurst shifter w/ Lou's short stick, !CAGS,!MAF, !TB, K&N FIPK, 1LE intake elbow, Borla catback, LT4 KM, 1300w sound system.

pic: 95 Formula

 

I haven't read this whole topic, but in response to you... not always. The TPS can get "dead spots" in it. It might work perfect up to 10% throttle position but as soon as you get to 11% it might jump to like 30 or 40%. You can check a TPS on an o-scope or a very good and accurate multimeter to see if it has any dead spots.



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Brent Franker * Main Page
94 Vortech Z28 * 96 Z28 SS #1655
4th Gen Appearance Modification Guide
F-Body Install & Fix-It Guides

 

I agree with LT1Brutus. When I bought my car it was time for tune up. I did all the basics, plugs wires ,fuel filter ect. But I took it a step further and put on a holley anihalator ignition with a larger coil. Larger as measered in voltage and physical dimension, it has its own larger heat sink. Thus I had to fab a new braket which stands the coil and module off the cylinder head. I used to have a stumble and hesitation. Now I don't after this. Had figured it was just due to larger coil, but am thinking heat from cylinder head is coming into play also.

 

thanks for the info Brent.

does the TPS work in open loop? because what i don't get is why the TPS would work when the car is cold and fail when it heats up... the only reason this could be is if the TPS is checked when the car warms up and goes into closed loop operation and runs fine when cool (or just started) simply because the car is in open loop and is not looking at the TPS info.... anybody know the answer?

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1995 Firebrid Formula M6: hurst shifter w/ Lou's short stick, !CAGS,!MAF, !TB, K&N FIPK, 1LE intake elbow, Borla catback, LT4 KM, 1300w sound system.

pic: 95 Formula

[This message has been edited by Jkicak (edited July 03, 2002).]

 

IM not sure my self but my guess would be that it works durring open loop also. because i can get readings from my scanner when the car is fist started.

 

Hook up a test fuel pressure gauge to the scraeder valve on your fuel rail, tape the gauge to your windshield and run the car through its paces to see if the fuel pressure is dropping off. If it is, then the problem is from the fuel pressure regulator back to the tank.

FYI. I discovered that the fuel pickup screen on my wife's 1996 Impala SS was completely clogged, when the fuel pump grounded through the fuel level sender wiring and kept blowing fuel pump fuses. The Impala had been hesitating like you describe on your F-Body, before the fuel pump failed.

No problems yet like you describe on my 1994 Z28M6 with 79,000 miles.

 

so, now we have the idea that it's not the TPS or fuel because our cars run fine till they get hot and TPS should fail hot or cold since they get the same readings hot or cold.... fuel probs would be the same right? what would make probs with fuel when the motor gets up to normal temps but run fine at cooler temps? anybody?


so, we know it's not plugs, wires, opti, TPS, or fuel probs..... do we all need new motors??

i think i will clean the maf and see what that does... also i'm gonna relocate the IAT... maybe that really has alot to do with it... although, here is the kicker.... our cars didn't do this when they were younger and they have run at the same temps and the IAT was in the same place so how could this be the cause.... heh, maybe i will not waste my time on that! :P

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1995 Firebrid Formula M6: hurst shifter w/ Lou's short stick, !CAGS,!MAF, !TB, K&N FIPK, 1LE intake elbow, Borla catback, LT4 KM, 1300w sound system.

pic: 95 Formula

[This message has been edited by Jkicak (edited July 03, 2002).]

 

Anybody know where I can get a dyno chart for a stock 96 Z? I was just thinkin that maybe at 2k rpm the horsepower skyrockets and before it its just flat linin...maybe thats it....

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The Lunitik
1996 White Z-28
All Stock
Never ran