blkchevyz

thats not going to be any cheaper, hell probably more expsensive... but will probably drive better.

amean94ta

the goal for me is to make this max effort 396 push as close to 500 rwhp as i can make it and then spray atleast a 300 shot

but till i get more money this season looks like 500 + flywheel n/a hp will have to do




i just dont know why with as long as the lt1 has been around and how many guys have pushed this ticket and the many that are right now why no break throughs on a solid combo to hit the high numbers

turbo_Z

Because I have realize the fun is not in building the motor... the fun is in running it. So why try so hard to accomplish the goal in this thread when all that really matters is the end result? And with a S/C you get the added bonuses of very mild street manners, smooth idle, improved fuel economy, longer engine life, ability to bolt on a different pullies to make even more power with no need to worry about failing emission inspections.

amean94ta

for many of us in this thread it is about building the motor its building the car from off showroom stock

also sure throw a power adder at it does work till the guys like me that build the motor then hit it with a huge dose of juice

its about the whole packege and pushing the limits most of us are'nt worried about mild street manners, smooth idle, improved fuel economy, longer engine life, and failing emissions in pa i am exempt so i can run what i want aslong as i dont hit 5k miles or more a year

97WS6SCharged

On the flip side of that, with a blown car I can put down 600+ rwhp, drive it when ever/where ever, not have to burn exotic gas by the barrel, retain my AC/powersteering/etc..., not worry about it shaking my eye ***** out of their sockets. Plus the whistle sounds sexy.

What's the fun of building something that's totally badass if you can only drive it 5k miles or less a year?

amean94ta

the fun is knowing you have one of the fastest cars on the street at most of the local shows, coming down the street and watching heads turn and nose's pick up that 110 vp

"diffrent strokes for diffrent folks"

some want driveability ..... me i wanted pure insane bust your head in power there is nothing wrong with either of our style's

infact after i hit a level with this car my next project is gonna be a ratrod which is toatally diffrent then what i have now

blkchevyz

what ac/powersteering have to do with running n/a vs boost?

exotic gas by the barrel? boosted cars need to run race gas way before an n/a

94Z396_0621

I'm in the process of building a 398 LT1 with Trick Flow Heads done by Loyd Elliott. 2.08, 1.625 valves, LT4 intake port matched. All Forged Bottom end with 12.1 compression and still streetable. As long as the 4L60E. I wanna know about the sheet metal intakes cost for an LT1. Does the LT4 flow better than a Stock LT1 intake?

amean94ta

contact bret baur aka sstrokerace he has a good deal on intakes right now


when your heads get done be sure to post up the numbers ok

97WS6SCharged

Most people who actually make 500+ rwhp with a naturally aspirated LT1 have removed every ounce of weight from the car as it is no longer a real street car. No ac, no heater, no power steering, manual brakes, etc... Personally, I don't consider a car to be a street car if it doesn't have AC being that the temp here will hit 100+ in the summer time with an 80% or higher humidity. Leather seats burn the **** if you're wearing shorts. I've driven my share of street going racecars before, and I won't do it again. As amean94ta stated, different strokes for different folks.

Really? Build two 700 horse 355s, one NA and one FI and see which one starts pinging on 93 (or even 100 octane) first.

1racerdude

What has weight got to do with making HP?

Personally I wouldn't get up in the morning and jump THAT deep into my pants, it keeps that **** from getting burnt.

Mike96z

My car makes 450+ RWHP with:

LT1 388 (Bored 4.060 5.7/3.75)
Custom Port/Polish Heads (Valve Job)
Custom Port/Polish TB
Custom Port/Polish Intake
Comp Cams 306 Roller Cam
Dyno Tune
KB Pistons 11.5:1
Eagle Forged 3.75 Crank
Crane Cam 10308 Dual Valve Springs
LT4 Hydraulic Lifters
Comp Cam 1.6 Ratio Roller Tip Rockers
Comp Cam Chromoly Push Rods
Edelbrock Midlength Headers (LT's would provide more TQ in the lower end)
No Exhaust
No EGR
No CATS
No AIR
G2 Cold Air
K&N Filter
Underdrive Kit
LT4 Knock Module
Stage II Clutch
Copper Header Gaskets
ES Tranny Mount
ES Motor Mounts
ES Torque Arm Bushings
Autolite Plat Plug
Magnecor 8mm Wires
Summit HP Coil

Alot of others I forgot about.........

JustNO

what is your heads flow numbers? Do you know? And that 450rwhp SAE corrected?

94Z396_0621

I've already gotten the heads from Loyd Elliott and the LT4 intake, if i woulda know about the sheet metal intakes i would have purchased one, but Loyd told me to go with the LT4 and i just purchased a Arizona Speed and Marine 58 mm throttle body. Bottom end of my Car consists of a Callies Dragonslayer 3.875 crank with Eagle 6" H-beam rods, Canton Oil pan. Trick Flow heads worked by Loyd Elliott. With custom cam by Loyd and Bret Bauer. Hydraulic Roller. Prolly looking at a Fuddle Racing Converter or Yank, or Viglante. Do yall think i could possible hit 500 on motor? I'm hoping for 460 plus just on motor, then prolly 250 shot with a good trans and a 12 bolt in the future. Do yall think spraying a 2 stage would be better than spraying it all at once?
Thanx,
Josh

1racerdude

Yes,if ya had an intake the intake will loose ya 10% of your head flow and the heads come out flowing 330+ and ya get a mono blade and a GOOD CAI with a 1300CFM filter,with everything else spot on and about 12 1/2 13-1 static compression with a nasty mech roller.Thats 600-625FWHP to get 500 to the tire.
If ya hook it, I would stage it,if ya don't want it on the bumper all the time.250 is a lot of hose to leave on.