I know of a car that weighs 3760 with driver, dynoed 429 RWHP converter unlocked, (481 locked) and runs 11.0's at 120 and change if that helps. His car is not nearly as aerodynamic as our F-body's. I know they say it doesn't really matter much until you hit 140 or so et-wise but it does affect mph some before that.

 

Can we list some of the weights vs what you took off your car.
For instance, a stock car but minus rear seats, seat belts, no spare/jack weighed ______.

I'd like to get my weight down, but....gasp... still leave it streetable enough for my wife and I to drive it to a movie/dinner in winter or summer. I realize I have to "commit" to get my car to run FAST, but I need it to still have at least "some" functionality, because I still have to live with my wife, and if I want to get to drive my car with her in it I still have to have "some" amminites.

so my question how light can you get it while maintaining some aminities (air bags, A/C, radio (only like 2 speakers though), etc

FWIW...I just purchased one of said companies H/C/I packages. In making my decision I talked at length with both parties, both were extremely knowledgable, both took their time to talk with me, and not just try to sell a product...but they tried to get to know me, my goals, my planned use for the car etc. I kinda got the notion that one was more race oriented than the other, but both were spot on for telling you how to make the most power (ie supporting mods, weight reduction, suspension etc).

Either way, its been said before in this thread, no matter what H/C/I package you use, you have to be willing to make the sacrifices necessary to make the car run, which really means making the car a racecar and not a street car, IMO...and that doesn't interest me...yet.

 

To me a streetcar is a car with all the sissy streetcar stuff like A/C and power steering *GASP*

Factory stock with a six speed and a 9 inch rear with a 1/2 tank of fuel it weighed 3420 without me in it on Nascar type scales.

The stuff I took off:
Front bumper support
rear seats
front seats
carpet padding
Mac 1 5/8 shorties w Y pipe
front k member
factory front springs and shocks
factory hood
SLp 2 otl catback
ABS module
factory SS wheels and tires
Factory seatbelts
Factory fuel system and lines
Six speed trans
Airbag steering wheel



I put back in their place
Hunsaker race seats(about the same weight as the factory seats)
Mild steel tubular K member(the weight savings is NOT what they say it is)
HAL front coilovers
ASCD glass cowl hood
4 inch mufflex catback w/3.5 inch Y pipe and longtube 1 7/8 headers
15x10, 15x4 convo pro with 325/50 drag radial
5 point Ultrashield harnesses
Aeromotive fuel system, A1000 pump, #10 up, #8 return
4L60E transmission
WOLFE 6 point chromemoly bolt in roll bar.
Grant steering wheel with disconnect.

I think its a wash

David

 

Shon,
I called them less than a year ago. The setup I'm going with now will be all LTx. At this point I wouldn't have it any other way. Keeping it simple has always been me motto. I'm now just in line w/ my shop waiting for the shortblock to be assembled before I can go any further. I'm not asking a whole lot, but I am expecting to do better than low 12's...

 

Low 12s is all you want? You didnt have to get a short block to do that, nor a H/C package.

 

er... no... I am expecting to do better than low 12's.

 

OH 11.9's, gotcha!

 

exactly!

 

From what I have seen Bret uses more lift even if the durations are ballpark similar so I guess it depends on your description of "bigger" . Or how you choose to apply that term to fit your agenda . Not enough objective folks out there comparing cars most of you just ignore the details that make the difference often BECAUSE they make the difference. Guys want to compare my 100K stock shortblock to their 355s I see A LOT of that mentaility in these posts. Some of it by guys who know trying like hell to defend their choice and some by those too ignorant to know the difference.

The details on Rick's car are listed to allow objective folks the info they need to mull things over in their head, if they were claiming that you could do the same as Rick with a street car they would not list things like the wheelie bars and such. The info is there in plain sight in the same list with all the other info, it is an open and honest attempt to offer info those of you going in looking to dismiss it will always find a way logical or not. The claims of a wild solid roller are just evidence of that, yes the duration is up there but the lift is not, the old 10.04 setup was I think .620/.600 Bret uses near this on a hydraulic LE2. IMO that is wild at least for the street when I am the one paying for the spring replacements.

 

WOW !

Nice run.

 

so the question still remains . . . .

how would this same car perform with a set of my LE2 heads and everything else the same? Does anyopne here think there is gonna be much difference at all one way or the other?

I am guessing less than 1 tenth and 1 MPH but there is only one way to KNOW and that is if Rick is willing to find out.

 

Why not call them out on it instead of pontificating on the internet? Donate a pair of your LE2 heads to slap on that car and we can all see the results!

 

This could be the tenth that is needed to win, now who would be satisfied with that?

 

From what I have seen Bret uses more lift even if the durations are ballpark similar so I guess it depends on your description of "bigger" . Or how you choose to apply that term to fit your agenda.

The durations from what I have seen are not similiar (I would know )for a given setup. yes Bret does use more lift, a definate plus in my opinion. Lift is not determined by head flow, I look at it as power under the curve
Look up a Few books by a guy named David Vizard one book in particular called "How to Build and Modify chevrolet small-block v-8 camshafts and valvetrains" a lot of valueable info.

Duration my Friend.

I know a Few Beehives that can take that no problem for at least 50,000 miles.
Look at the new LS7 camshaft .59X lift on the intake and exhaust and that lobe isn't slow either, and how much do you want to bet that will last 100,000+ miles

 

Jeez, at least use a set of LE3 heads. Go max for max, the 200cc is the max performance AI head, the LE3 the max performance LE head. They are comparably priced, they flow similar #...flow doesn't necessarily equate to wet flow nor HP #, but I bet it would be a wash, but DANG...That would make for some reality TV wouldn't it.
Hey if they would donate the heads they could use my car and I'd let them run it both ways.

I am an honest guy, this way there would be NO cheatin!