DrewHMS97SS

That's not too bad. I got one of the doorman regulator kits, hopefully that won't add much.

BTC

I changed the window motor in my driver's side door over Christmas. For some reason I had been dreading it for years, but it was actually very straightforward and not at all difficult. The interior door panel had been off for years, so that likely sped things up a bit. I also used shoebox's guide, which was super handy. I recently bought another motor because the passenger side needs to be replaced as well.

If you are planning on replacing the regulator, that's likely an entirely different can of worms and I wouldn't bother with it unless it were absolutely necessary.

DrewHMS97SS

The new tank is in, and tested as far as it can go without getting the car to the gas station. Getting the exhaust back in wasn't as painful as I thought it would be. The plastic tank swap was quite the process. I installed a Aeromotive 11569 34lph pump, which required a ton of grinding on the fuel bucket, longer fuel line from the feed to the pump, a new fuel sending sensor, and a bit of trial and error on the EVAP system.





As for the extinguisher mentioned before, I think it came out pretty well. I didn't mean to get a white version, but it's cool that it matched the gauges and shift ****.





The last thing that has to be done before driving again is replacement of the torque arm bushing. I completely forgot to loosen the bracket holding the busing before I dropped the rear end for the tank, which destroyed the bushing. I have an SLP adjustable arm, which you can no longer buy bushings for. I found that UMI has a model that looks to fit, which I hope to fit in today. On a worst case scenario, I hope a poly mount for a stock arm would take well to a hole saw.

I have another appointment with the DMV this Saturday for a moving pass. When I had it out a couple of weeks ago, it had codes for the front O2 sensors, which have been replaced, and a 1600 code that I can't remember. I think it was 1652, but I need to check it again. The goal this weekend is to pass emissions and get the car registered. I have Monday and Tuesday off, which will hopefully be enough time.

I think I mentioned this before, but my Autometer electronic fuel guage was throwing wonky readings compared with what was read on the test port. Autometer wants $130 for a new transducer, which feels really steep on a $200 gauge. I found another company that had the same voltage/psi output of autometer for $28. This is installed and verified, with no modification to the wiring needed. We will see how well it stands up over time.

DrewHMS97SS

The car is on the road and registered!

I ended up replacing both window motor/regulators with Doorman kits. The process of getting the rivets and regulator out really wasn't that bad. I found video that helped a ton. Using a punch to push the center of the rivets through really made the drilling process simple. After pounding the center (did take a number of hits) section out, I used a 1/2" drill bit and was able to get all 4 drilled out within a couple of minutes. Items I found that were not discussed that would have been great to know before hand:

1. Roll the window down 1" before starting the process
2. The rear bar that controls vertical movement should be removed before any other components. This makes removing the motor/regulator much easier.
3. To ease removal of the top 2 rollers of the regulator that attach to the window, have a helper tilt the window towards the inside of the car. This allows the wheel attached to the window clear the regulator.
4. Reconnect the battery after all of the regulators parts at attached, this will allow you to bump the window switch to help line up the motor.
5. Don't attempt to remove the motor/regulator without a helper, while it can be done, it's awkward, and in my opinion, not worth possibly breaking the window or messing up components in the door.

I also had an exciting experience rebuilding part of the steering column. The new column from Hawks had one known issue that I was working with them on where the turn signal cam where the horn connects was broken. I had to tape down the horn under the airbag (no horn). After I started driving the car, I was seeing the airbag light go on and off, and with just the right turn, the horn would blip.

I bought a couple of clip tools and a lock plate removal tool and went to work. The clock spring split as soon as I pulled the first c-clip:



Luckily the previous steering column had a good clock spring, which I poached. Both columns had the same break in the turn signal cam:



A replacement at the auto part store was only $6, where the dealership wanted $36.

I also opted to drop some cash on new tires. I was having to fill them daily and knew they were bad. I went with a set of Nitto NT555 G2's. While changing the tires, we found that the chrome was flaking to the point we couldn't get the tires to fully seal. I ended up buying a set of z06 replica wheels, and will hold on to the firehawk ones for a later date / refinish.




Anyhow, in joy riding out to Boulder City, I ran into a 2014/2015 SS and had my first opportunity to play. We ran from a roll starting at about 60 up to 130 where I had him by a little more than a car length. Cool guy with thumbs up exchanged.

The lastest drama is that I am leaking oil near the opti. I am planning on replacing at very least that seal on the next oil change. I believe if the timing cover needs its gasket replaced, that I will also need to drop the oil pan. Is that correct? More to come, but on the road makes me happy (and the windows work)!

DrewHMS97SS

Thanks! I still owe you a call, and my apologies. I have been slammed between this and family obligations. We should definitely get the cars out soon!

87Aerocoupe

Hey Drew the power windows moving slowly may not be the window motors the BCM has a known bad soldered joint of the relay for the windows. If your radio is also intermittent/not working then the problem is the BCM, pull the BCM and remove the circuit board there are 5 solder joints that connect to the relay. Desolder all 5 and resolder them and everything will be fine, but since you have the window motors/regulators go ahead and change them that way you know everything is new.
Hope this helps by the way I also purchased the Autotrix wiring kits that put relays on each window motor.

DrewHMS97SS

Not only were they moving slowly, but also stopping for 30-60 seconds. The new motors work, with no pauses in operation, but they still feel a bit slow (compared with newer cars). How long does it take you to roll up or down a window?

I can't comment on the radio, as I don't have one in the car. When I originally finished the rebuild process and encountered the ignition fuse issue, I had a breakin where someone tried to steal the car. The stereo and amps were taken, and have yet to be replaced.

DrewHMS97SS

I am pretty sure I have the fuel tank sorted out. I added a tee into the the vent line that routes to the carbon canister and routed a line into the filler neck. Gas now pumps freely.



Additionally, the tire/wheel issue has been resolved. I held onto the old wheels, and will have them refinished at some point. Here are some pics.

Injuneer

Glad you got the tank to accept fuel at a decent rate.

Think we can get a patent on that mod ?

DrewHMS97SS

Right? Thank you for all of your time going through this one with me! I wonder if I am the only post '93 pre '99 that has the plastic tank in place. The extra gallon of gas is nice, especially with how low my mileage is (about 10 mpg).

DrewHMS97SS

In the latest edition: Oil woes and head lights.

The car had a headlight out, and I opted to upgrade to HID after seeing a kit on Hawks. The install was pretty easy, and only required mounting a ballast to each side of the car (ended up near the horn on the passenger side and the cruise control on the drive side, and swapping out the housing. Everything plugs in and no wiring or cutting required. After the install I had no light, and after calling Hawks found out the polarity of the bulb wires needed to be switched (which would have been nice to know before hand). I am pretty impressed with the light output, which puts the stock lights to shame:



In regard to oil, I cannot tell where the oil is coming from, but the front of the engine is soaked, but so is the back. I do not or feel any oil from the top of the engine, so at least I feel the intake is good. There is enough oil that the car is parked for now. There was oil on the opti, CPS, wires and the bottom of the WP. I can't tell on the back side, but figure it is the oil pan seal. I am most worried about oil on the opti, which is why it's parked. I have new oil and a full Felpro set on order. Depending, I might start the front tear down tonight.

Chimera96

The most common oil leak source on front of motor is the WP drive seal. If the seal rear lip gets folded over on install it will immediately leak. There is a install specific tool from Kent Moore, clones of it on ebay or homemade versions using a Sharpie pen cap, the WP coupler itself or a deep socket. Few ways to do it.

The oil may be just migrating along the bottom of pan to the rear making it "appear" to also leak from the rear. Or you do also have a separate leak from rear somewhere.

Cleaning the engine and then driving for a short period then looking should identify the leak source. There are also oil dye kits where you use a black light to reveal where leak originates from

On the WP drive seal since it is behind WP and top of opti you can't really see it unless you pull WP and Opti and then see the "oil trail" down the front of timing cover. It is very typical to see oil on center bottom of motor and CPS from a leaking WP drive seal

DrewHMS97SS

I definitely had the water pump seal issue. I know when the engine was originally assembled that all three seals were pressed into the timing cover before it was installed. I was reading about the process before tearing everything down and found out about the Sharpie method. I went this route and had an easy time with the install.

My current pain is that part of this process, I decided to replace my dipstick. The factory dipstick had separated from the mounting bracket allowing it to move freely. I ordered a Lokar ED-5001, and was really impressed with the quality of the product. My issue is that the splayed main bearing cap interferes with the tube. Getting the stock tube in with the engine on a stand was still a challenge. To get the Lokar unit in, I added nuts to the tube, and pounded it in with a dead blow hammer and a socket/extension. I had it in the perfect position, but tightening down the tube I snapped the top of the tube. I should have another tube in today and plan to give it another try.

DrewHMS97SS

The dipstick replacement is complete and I had the car fired up last night. I must have gacked the rear oil pan seal though because it is leaking with fury. I cannot begin to tell you how tired I am of oil pan bolts and torquing. This also makes me want to delete the oil cooler since taking the pan down requires draining the coolant.

Chimera96

you could just plug the radiator holes with something temporary (rubber vac nipples work) when you remove the cooler lines to drop pan

confirm the leak is in fact coming from pan and not something else like oil filter adapter gasket. WAY easier to just replace that if it was the leak source vs oil pan gasket