12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Originally Posted by WeirdRich
yeah, suspension is obviously the next step. LCA's first. Shoot me some names I can start looking for.
LCA's WON'T help as much as a Spohn TA.
QA-1, Eibach,Global West are three that come to mine.
DON'T get the Eibach drag launch kit.
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Originally Posted by JakeRobb
The original poster is driving an M6 car. Manuals are known to be harder on the rear ends. It's much easier to gently preload the drivetrain with a stall (which I see you have), so of course yours will last longer.
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Originally Posted by WS Sick
Thanks for the heads up 
EDIT: Besides, do you have any desire to improve your times? Your 60' is good, but the 10-bolts really start to break in the 1.6-1.7 range. You could shave 0.3 or more off your ET just by getting out of the hole quicker, but you'd really be putting that rear end at risk with launches like that.
Last edited by JakeRobb; Jul 19, 2006 at 08:34 AM.
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Originally Posted by JakeRobb
Having said that, though, what will you have to say when you're on your ninth or tenth 10-bolt at $300 apiece? At that point, you'll have spent a lot more than you would have paid for a nice, sturdy 12-bolt.
EDIT: Besides, do you have any desire to improve your times? Your 60' is good, but the 10-bolts really start to break in the 1.6-1.7 range. You could shave 0.3 or more off your ET just by getting out of the hole quicker, but you'd really be putting that rear end at risk with launches like that.
EDIT: Besides, do you have any desire to improve your times? Your 60' is good, but the 10-bolts really start to break in the 1.6-1.7 range. You could shave 0.3 or more off your ET just by getting out of the hole quicker, but you'd really be putting that rear end at risk with launches like that.
I realize that the auto is much nicer to the 7.5 than the six speeds are, but a few precausions in a six speed could make it live a little longer, for instance better axels,welded tubes and a girdle support will keep the housing from flexing and eating the ring gear (which is the most common failure I see people have , along with the axels twisted.)
Also notice I said sub 1.8s I have hit a best of 1.58, but I normally hit 1.70s.
If I ever add nitrous I probably will add a 12 bolt.
Please don't think my tone combative, If I came off that way I appologize.
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Originally Posted by WS Sick
Please don't think my tone combative, If I came off that way I appologize.
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Let's not all forget the air!! it's horrible in some part's of the country nowaday's.. I'd say his time's are pretty good for his given mod's..
keep practicing that 60ft.. you'll notice you get out the hole better, it'll only lead to faster time's..
keep practicing that 60ft.. you'll notice you get out the hole better, it'll only lead to faster time's..
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Originally Posted by IllusionalTA
Let's not all forget the air!! it's horrible in some part's of the country nowaday's.. I'd say his time's are pretty good for his given mod's..
keep practicing that 60ft.. you'll notice you get out the hole better, it'll only lead to faster time's..
keep practicing that 60ft.. you'll notice you get out the hole better, it'll only lead to faster time's..
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Originally Posted by IllusionalTA
Let's not all forget the air!! it's horrible in some part's of the country nowaday's.. I'd say his time's are pretty good for his given mod's..
keep practicing that 60ft.. you'll notice you get out the hole better, it'll only lead to faster time's..
keep practicing that 60ft.. you'll notice you get out the hole better, it'll only lead to faster time's..But like we've discussed that 60 foot with even a slight improvement would move the car into the high 11s.
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
lca brackets, if the car is lower that should have been done at the same time you lowered it. lowering the car throws the instant center way off.
lower control arms. any aftermerket are better than the stockers with the weak rubber bushings.
sub frame conectors cause im sure your vert is twisting pretty bad.
what pressure are you running the nittos at? anything over 20 psi is a waste. get them around 16-18.
what rpm are you launching at? i was able to pull 1.9-2.0 with street tires launching around 1200 rpms. i found a spot were the car would bog just enough to get it to leave without too much tire spin.
take off the front sway bar.
who did the tune. maybe have someone local look at it for you. we do all our tuning on the street in 1st - 4th gears with a portable wideband. we only use the dyno to see were we are at and maybe add a little fuel or timing but 98% of the tuning is done on the street under real world condisions.
dont put v6 springs in the rear. you want the rear to be stiff. if its squatting you are wasting energy.
lower control arms. any aftermerket are better than the stockers with the weak rubber bushings.
sub frame conectors cause im sure your vert is twisting pretty bad.
what pressure are you running the nittos at? anything over 20 psi is a waste. get them around 16-18.
what rpm are you launching at? i was able to pull 1.9-2.0 with street tires launching around 1200 rpms. i found a spot were the car would bog just enough to get it to leave without too much tire spin.
take off the front sway bar.
who did the tune. maybe have someone local look at it for you. we do all our tuning on the street in 1st - 4th gears with a portable wideband. we only use the dyno to see were we are at and maybe add a little fuel or timing but 98% of the tuning is done on the street under real world condisions.
dont put v6 springs in the rear. you want the rear to be stiff. if its squatting you are wasting energy.
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Originally Posted by ksmyss
dont put v6 springs in the rear. you want the rear to be stiff. if its squatting you are wasting energy.
Originally Posted by Joseph Overton
Relocation brackets are good for a mild street car and helps a radial car hook somewhat..But on my personal car and others I have setup .I found that relocation brackets are not really needed..and could be considered a grey area as well..
list of parts on my suspension for anybody wondering.
Rear:
hal 12 way adjustables rear
6 cylinder stock rear springs
wolfe double adjustable LCA's
wolfe anti-roll
spohn torque arm
Front:
PA k-member
stock upper a-arms
PA lower a-arms
afco double adjustable shocks/qa1 springs
nothing trick, nothing relocated, nothing nobody else cant buy...
list of parts on my suspension for anybody wondering.
Rear:
hal 12 way adjustables rear
6 cylinder stock rear springs
wolfe double adjustable LCA's
wolfe anti-roll
spohn torque arm
Front:
PA k-member
stock upper a-arms
PA lower a-arms
afco double adjustable shocks/qa1 springs
nothing trick, nothing relocated, nothing nobody else cant buy...

Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
joe has a ton of power thats why he is running good with them. the only reason you need softer rear springs is if you are putting a ton of power down and need to soften the launch up. v6 springs or much taller tires will both help absorb te shock.
Last edited by ksmyss; Jul 20, 2006 at 10:47 AM.
Re: 12.35 @ 114....whats next?
Power or no power, they help the car stick. You may direct some power in a non-et improving direction, but the et will be lower if the car grabs rather than spinning. The springs do absorb the shock, but that can be the difference (static coefficient of friction) in the tires spinning or not. Basically, they absorb to make the hit softer, but after they've absorbed what they can, the power is delivered to the tires. They kind of act like a progressive controller for power. I'm not saying that this is the best way to do it, but if he wants to make the car stick without spending all of the money to purchase all of the aftermarket suspension stuff, they can work as a crutch.
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