the numbers aren't low considering the cam choice. and those heads have a pretty decent port job from what rich told me. They have stock valves and a port match. i sold him the heads before he got them ported, so i have no idea what kind of flow numbers it will have.

 

I trapped 115mph, stock bottom end, ported heads(no idea how good they are, they were on the car when I bought it, the rest was stock), and the crane 227 cam (210/224)

 

I already have 3 of those installed. I figured 3 x 3hp = 9hp increase.

 

i would say get some longtubes and true duals man, and maybe a good dyno tune, cuz i too do think the trap is a little low for a 385 stroked motor.

have you data logged it? see what it's running like on the road? a great tune will do wonders to a car thats for sure stock valves and shorties aren't the best combo to maximize the full potential of the displacement you have bro.

I hope you see the light soon lol j/k
-ben

 

on another note, just because it has ported heads, doesn't mean that they flow well. i know that they need to have very good volumetric efficiency as well as flow. you can port the head as much as you can, but limiting the valve size will still hinder performance and not achieve best results.

i'm not saying yank the heads and go all out, but just gotta be realistic here and try to understand the stuff it takes to make a great breathing and running motor

 

yes, yes, yes Ive been through the heads/cam stuff before, but I have what I have and Im not ripping back into it until it breaks. My question was how to improve with my current setup, not how can I rip apart the top end of my motor again and spend $3,000 more of what I dont have. I know what I could do if I had the budget, but I dont, and I wont until Im out of college...which I will be STARTING in the fall, lol. Keep up the suggestions though

On another note, I have no idea what the heads flow (machinist is and idiot, no more dealing with him), no dyno #'s, no idea what kind of power Im making. Dyno tune is in the future, we'll see what the budget allows over the next month or so.

 

the mph seems low to me too. i have a stock bottom end, home ported heads and a cam thats about the same as the 306 and im trapping a hair under 117 with no weight reduction and slp midlenghts.

 

if i was you i'd buy a rear and some tires. thats all you'd need to hit 11s and not break.

 

sweet, anyone got a rear and tires for about 350$? Cuz thats all I got.

 

i guess you arent buying anything then

 

$350?

A set of LCAs with relocation brackets, and as much practice on test & tune days at your local track as you can afford with the rest.

Or, keep saving. You're not kidding about the time bomb.

 

A dyno tune would be money well spent. I bet that would get you very close to 11's by itself. I have a completely stock suspension and I have no problem launching my car. I do it with ET Streets though. You should be able to atleast "quick slip" a 1.8x 60ft. That's what I did. That alone I bet would get you to a 12.0 and maybe beyond.

 

I doubt he's going to save three tenths going from a mail order tune to a dyno tune, but I guess it's possible.

That said, let me know if you find someone that will do a dyno tune for $350.

 

honestly, i set of used LT headers (ie pacesetters) would be your best bet...i am sure you could find some within your 350 budget. installation is easy, and the ground clearance is not a problem, is the 3" true duals that myself and some others run which will scrape. keep in mind i am running this setup with eibachs in the front as well. its totally streetable, in fact its outside at work waiting to tear the street up tonight

i know you already know this, BUT let me give you some real advice (which will most likely sound like a father, even though i just graduated from college)....those 10 bolts, especially ones supporting engines bigger than 350's are hunks of sh|t. do yourself a favor and wait till you have the money for a 12 bolt or 9"...i learned the hard way when my 10-bolt died (aka teeth shot through the diff cover) while ON THE DYNO. sooo...had i been cool and not been beating the **** out of it daily, the 10 bolt may have lasted longer and not forced me to cough up $3000 when i didnt have it. (ring any bells? ) i know you want to go faster now, but just be careful.

 

The cam is not the problem with this setup. You need to do tweaking to the suspension and then build a tougher rear b/c once you get traction that one will break. With a 1.6 60' the car would run deep 11's. Get to work on the suspension like removing the front swaybar and maybe some Hal's for up front. Nitrous will only make your traction problems worse but can pickup alot of ET with traction. Later Clint