We've got too much snow up here to take it out of the garage. Before it snowed though I was wailing on it pretty good and no issues yet. Not quite like drag launching though with sticky tires and I've also got an automatic.

 

and you have an LS1...This set up is looking better and better. Keep us updated and make sure to beat the hell out of it!!!

 

I will keep the thread updated when I can get it out and have fun. If my wife was a member she would post up that I beat the hell out of our car while driving it. It's what's its built for so I use it to the fullest. I also push our highly modified 2000 Jeep as hard as I can offroad and that has caused us to roll a couple times but hey .. it's what it's built for.

 

Depends where it breaks. I broke one off when I wrecked my other car and it wanted to come out so much it tore the caliper up and broke a chunk out of the rotor. I have that wheel as the first part of my 'collection' Still has the rotor and the broken axle bolted to it, with a twisted, punctured wheel. Damn sewer grates...

Odd thing was the other tires got grass forced INSIDE the tire past the bead and the tires didnt loose any air. Didnt notice until I went to replace the tires. Weird...

 

I still dont get what some external pieces added to the outside of the housing will do to prevent my ring and pinion from looking like this...





I did this on my 6th launch at abou 3000 rpms on the 10 bolt.

I must be having a brain fart or something.

 

The whole idea is to keep the gears from moving relative to each other, by reducing flex of the assembly. Gears in proper alignment can take higher loads before breaking.

 

I still lean way towards the dana s60, but I met a guy this weekend that did something very similar to his 10 bolt... my only drawback from the s60 is it is sooooooo freakin heavy... but anything is better than this:







Lol, that was racing my buddy in his 68 camaro z28 454BB Crate Motored ... good race though, poor lil ol 10 bolt

 

Well thats one way to remove your differentail, at least parts of it! Sorry to see that man, pics like that haunt me in my dreams.

Any up date on this set up yet?

 

If you guys have some fab skills you can put a kit together pretty cheap, the most expensive part would be the diff cover, but check out www.suicidedoors.com they have 4 link tubing thats already threaded inside and you can get it in lengths of as short as 18" I think, then grab 4 heim joints and a couple jam nuts and with a little time and welding you can fab up something just as good as these kits. I'll try to get the links gathered for everything so you don't have to look for everything, but this is what I'm planning on doing here in a couple weeks, and the best part is I have a spare housing that I picked up for $25 and it has a good posi and axles, but a bad pinion bearing As soon as I start fabbing it up I'll be sure to take lots of pics

 

18" section of 1" OD Threaded Tubing (3/4" threads) $15

Flat Tabs To Attach Link Bars To Axle Tube $5 each (4 needed)

Then at summit you can get the heim joints...
2 right hand thread hiem joints w/jam nut $12
2 left hand thread heim joints w/jam nut $11

Welder and a couple beers and you can have this done in a few hours.

*EDIT* Just thought of this, but the 18" section of pipe would have the same threads all the way through, so you couldn't thread the left hand heim into it. They also sell Unthreaded Sections of 1" OD Pipe, but you would either have to buy the taps, or take it to a machine shop and have it done. And one more thing, you may have the fab up a spacer because the inner diameter of the heim joint is .750 and you will more than likely be using a 3/8 bolt and if you don't make a spacer the bolt will be loose in the heim joint. I'll do some more searching and see what I find.

 

Suggestions regarding above:

Cut the RH and LH threaded tube, mix-n-match, and braze or weld a larger OD sleeve on the outside.

The 3/4 threads and heim joints & 1" OD tube might be overkill, and will be more difficult to fit at the inboard end due to clearance to panhard bar. If using 3/8 bolts, that will be the weak point anyway. Even the 3/8 joints are tight, as noted earlier in this thread.

 

Yeah I was just posting an idea. With a little more research I'm sure I could find some 1/2" tubing so you could use some 3/8" heims so everything would fit better.

 

We'll best before taking the old engine out car went 11.94 at the drag strip...best trq number was just shy of 500rwhp. So had to take the diff apart to install the new Baer brakes after running this conversion for TWO years and the internals still look brand new.... Now new 340cid at 20 psi will net an aprox 750rwhp so we will really see in about 1 month the true "salt" of this improvement.

And remember boys and girls, the cost of this conversion is HALF the cost of the swaps, less intertia and less weight to boot!

Stay fast ya'll!

 

Some updates since I jumped back on here. It's holding up great. I've been having a blast, beating on it and it's been fine. I started a strange loss of power issues so I took the car to the shop and had them look it over. Thanks to my squealing a/c compressor we couldn't hear the rod bearing ticking. Put it up on the dyno to check the tune and pulled 430rwhp when the bottom end let loose. The 10-bolt is still going strong but the bottom of the motor is done. We tracked down a guy he knew with a Z06 short block with 20k on it and it will be on it's way to the shop tomorrow. The guy just swapped to a 408 so wasn't going to use it. $500 (Smokin deal) and it's mine. We'll swap the new top end over from the LS1 and be back in business in a week or so. Also ditching the a/c while we're at it.

 

ttt, i like this one...

any more updates for us?