Zdaddy

Yes, it is the same carrier from the 2.73. I thought I did give a breif parts summary in the 1st couple parts of the thread. If not, I'll come back with that. As far as gear choice, there are so many variables to determine what is best for each platform. I went to a 2.73 for a couple reasons...first is that on a boost car, the longer the engine dwells in the higher rpms, the longer it remains in peak hp range. Second was that my target use is road or road racing and not 1/4 or 1/8 mile drag racing. There are a ton of other factors, but these are some pretty important focus points.

Good luck!

Zdaddy

I have a volunteer test subject on a 4th Gen producing 400hp. Will document the work and we will see how it does in this application. Appreciate the go at it Walter!

blahster

Let us know how it all works out...i am eager to beef up my axle just a bit to make it more reliable...

BMoney

I will be doing the same thing until i can get my 9". i will have about 750hp at the flywheel, and running drag radials. so I hope it will work for at least this next summer.

rskrause

Good luck, but IMHO if you launch it hard it won't last a season. Let us know if it works out.

Rich

BMoney

I wont be launching it hard, the convertor is too small and know better. I will have to come out of the gate alittle soft and then get into the gas. I had a complete stock 7.5" in a 79 Malibu that held up to low 11's high 10's, just launching soft! so wish me luck.

IdahoLT1

Can you write a complete part list and some tips? It looks like the parts are spread across different posts and i dont want to miss a vital part for the order.
This sounds pretty sweet. I was looking at a 12 bolt and 4.10's for the next mods but didnt have 2 grand to drop. All i was planning on running was 350-380rwhp and a 12 bolt seemed a bit overkill.

onebadponcho

I'm still skeptical. I'd like to see a parts list with prices. The math isn't adding up for me, because unless you're buying these parts used or in some other heavily discounted way, the stuff you're using should come out to well over $1000 - not including labor since you did everything yourself. I applaud you for the effort and your setup seems to be holding up, but it definitely wouldn't be as "cheap" for most of us to build up the 10 bolt the way you have. It's too bad GM got everything else right with the 4th gen F body powertrain-wise (LT1/LS1-T56/4L60E) only to back it up with a rear out of an S10.

94slpz28

I would also like a parts list with price, i need to build my rearend for my new setup

taylorcrzy

How did you get the ears on the cover? Are they welded on? I looked up the summit cover and it doesn't have the ears on it. I am currently running the T/A diff cover. Let me know what you did. Thanks

Zdaddy

As promised, a test subject! Unlike mine, this is a 4th Gen and he is using a TA cover. His car is making 400hp. I polished it just for cosmetic purposes... The "ears" are 1/2 inch aircraft grade aluminum stock that is hand cut and drilled on a press for 1/2 inch bolts and rod ends. The ends and adjusters are a camber kit for 95-00 Acura Integra / Honda Civic. Knew Honda parts had to be good for something... The kit runs about $125. The welding should only cost you about $20 at any good fab shop. Bolts and Steel for the tube supports can all be found at Lowe's or Home Depot for a mere $40. So if you do your shopping right the entire deal should only run $200 for everything and can be made for any type after market aluminum differential cover.

Will post more pics as I finish up....

LATER

JoeliusZ28

very interesting, i might have to give this a shot in the future.

sseeya

There is no need to to go though all this fabrication, LPW already makes an axle tube brace kit.

http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp

Bud M

That LPW kit looks like it would be more effective because its braces make a triangle

dhirocz

Yeah I agree with alot of points made here. I never have broken any parts in a properly set up 10 bolt. You gotta understand the weaknesses of it so you can strengthen it.

Weld the tubes all the way around
pinion spacer in place of the crush sleeve (WELL WORTH the $20)
girdle cover
main cap studs
good posi
set up the lash tighter but not too tight
aftermarket axleshafts

what kills these things is shock and twist in the case... so minimize these and the rearend will live alot longer. I run a 383 and havent come close to breaking mine at all and I only run a girdle, GM gears set tight, welded tubes, and a pinion spacer. I like that cover though and that is a nice and creative solution to tube flex. When you start getting up there in HP it'll really help maintain proper clearances. Nice!

I think if you launch with some stickies you probably should upgrade to a 12 bolt. But for some guys like me, who almost never see the track, this is a decent alternative, really. I'm still upgrading though because I'm ditching the 383 for a 434

another nice upgrade for the rearend is some LCA relocation brackets... may as well get some welded in at the same time, i'd say.

I thought about doing one out of steel that had two holes that slipped over the preload studs, with a pad that extended down over two of the mounting holes for the cover on each side.

Buddy of mine got gipped by a guy who set up his 10 bolt and broke it on the street with bald tires. Its was a 355 with an 847 cam and pocket ported heads and longtubes. Broke the same rearend 2 or 3 times... I set one up for him tighter and he didnt break it again and ended up selling the car.

I've been considering doing this instead of replacement for now, just because my rear still works fine, the car stays on the street, and that $3000 for the new rear, driveshaft and shipping can go into my new bowtie block and rotating assembly so I can get started on that... I may wait for awhile until I see a nice 3 channel 12 bolt for sale to pick one up. I love it when guys get creative with customizing. ttt for this post!