Drivetrain Clutch, Torque Converter, Transmission, Driveline, Axles, Rear Ends

BULLET PROOF 10 BOLT? You be the judge!

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Old Nov 30, 2006 | 07:44 PM
  #16  
Dennis93TA's Avatar
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From: Warsaw, VA / Charleston, SC
I was looking today and jegs has a cover with the provisions for the adjusters already on it.
Cover W/Axle Brace
Axle Brace Kit

Would this work too??

Dude, that third gen looks awesome!!!
Old Nov 30, 2006 | 08:05 PM
  #17  
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you using the 28 spline axles and spool? or ?
Old Dec 1, 2006 | 08:47 AM
  #18  
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this would be awesome...i don't see the need to spend 2k on a rear end that is never going to see more than 450 rwhp....lol.
Old Dec 1, 2006 | 12:01 PM
  #19  
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My problem has always been finding someone who an setup a 10 bolt that is quiet That whine gets prety annoying on a long trip.
Old Dec 1, 2006 | 09:21 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by JasonK94Z
My problem has always been finding someone who an setup a 10 bolt that is quiet That whine gets prety annoying on a long trip.
The front of the differential isn't the leak point, rather the rear, more specifically the main bearings allow the carrier to pivot away from the front of the main housing reducing critical contact with the pinion. And the whinning noise is a good indication of incorrect lash. The force that pulls the carrier section away is the axle shafts propelling forward. It doesn't work if the parts in the diff are inferior or installed incorrectly. The axle tube supports are just one part of the total equation to a strong unit entirely....

One more illistration-

Old Dec 2, 2006 | 12:46 PM
  #21  
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Looks good, but I have a question for you. How did you measure the pre-load? And would you happen to remember how much the axles were, or did you mention that and I need to re-read your post?
Old Dec 2, 2006 | 01:04 PM
  #22  
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i ran something very similar 5 years ago....everything worked fine but i kept breaking ring gear teeth...I sold the set up
btw. i was running the zexel torsen diff. i never had a problem the guy i sold it to is still running low 11's with it today

I also did another one for someone else in a 3rd gen....held up well but eventually broke a few ring gear teeth

I set the both up with around 8 thou backlash if I remember corectly that was a few years back

The 10 bolt isn't as bad as people make it out to be but its not like a 9"
Old Dec 2, 2006 | 07:18 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Z-RATED94
Looks good, but I have a question for you. How did you measure the pre-load? And would you happen to remember how much the axles were, or did you mention that and I need to re-read your post?
Just turn till stops and give it a quarter turn extra. The axles are $235.95 for the set from Moser.
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 02:15 PM
  #24  
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Did you weld the tubes in, too? I'm thinking about that, but worried about warping the whole thing. Benefit would depend on whether the deflection is more due to the axle tubes flexing under load, or if the connection to the housing moves, I think. Don't know answer.
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 07:32 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by JP95ZM6
Did you weld the tubes in, too? I'm thinking about that, but worried about warping the whole thing. Benefit would depend on whether the deflection is more due to the axle tubes flexing under load, or if the connection to the housing moves, I think. Don't know answer.
Welding the tubes is not needed if using the support system.
Old Dec 3, 2006 | 07:57 PM
  #26  
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Nice research. I contacted Richmond gear back in 1998 or 1999 and they said pretty much the same thing. However one of the forces you dont seem to account for is at the ring gear and pinion gear interface. Inertia tries to keep the ring gear stationary whereas the pinion is under tremendous torque from the engine. This causes the center section to stretch to enable the pinion gear to walk up the ring gear face. Like you have shown, the stud girdle helps maintain the integrity of the center section by increasing rigidity. Another place of concern is the crush washer underneath the pinion gear. A hand-lapped crush washer is important for maintaining gear lash. It's labor intensive during setup but can help maintain the gear lash under extreme conditions. That's where my 10-bolt failed in October of 2005: My crush washer deformed under severe wheelhop and then the axle tore apart the bearing spacer. Richmond gear engineers told me plainly that the stud girdle and the perimeter welding of the axle tubes would "essentially double" the life of the gears. Add these parts to the design and you've got the best recipe for a better 10-bolt I've seen yet.

Good going on the research.
Old Dec 4, 2006 | 03:41 AM
  #27  
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Is there book available that explains how to "rebuild" a 10-bolt? i am wanting to install 3.73 gears into my 10 bolt and do the support upgrade that is described in this post....but i need to know how to install those gears(and the crush washer thingy)...cuz i'm too much of an el cheapo to give someone else the money when i can do it myself....thanks!
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 07:28 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by blahster
Is there book available that explains how to "rebuild" a 10-bolt? ...cuz i'm too much of an el cheapo to give someone else the money when i can do it myself....thanks!
There isn't a book, but Summit Racing Equipment sells a VHS tape that shows the whole process.
Old Dec 5, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #29  
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Nice post.

One thing I noticed is that the axle tube braces are parallel to the axle on your setup. The aftermarket kits often use short tabs that weld to the axle tube for the outboard end of the rods. This makes for a triangular arrangement of the structural members. Generally speaking a triangle is far stiffer in structural applications than a rectangle. I'm thinking that the triangle configuration would be stiffer/stronger.

Regards, Michael

Last edited by grammerman; Dec 6, 2006 at 08:15 AM.
Old Dec 7, 2006 | 01:34 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Zdaddy
Found that there are two different carrier sections for the 10 bolt 7.5 and the stronger of the two is the 2.32 carrier section and also requires a thinker ring gear (more durability!)
Is this the same carrier that comes in 2.73 cars? If so, I like this idea. If not, what cars did it come in?

Also, I think it would be beneficial (if it's not too much to ask) if you posted a simple parts list of what you've used.

Is a 2.73 gear going to be stronger than a 3.73 gear?
I'm considering going back to the 2.73 for the turbo project.



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