Stock panhard still fits with this solution. I agree about the weld on part. I think that it could definitely be designed as a bolt on kit but then it would probably need to be vehicle specific for the axle tube bracket to bolt on. The tubes came about 17" long each but as it turns out for th fbody to get them to fit we needed them to be exactly 8" long each so I only used one tube and cut two 8" sections out of it. Other bracketry on the axle prevented them from being any longer.

If anyone does this kit and wants the aluminum bracket drilled out I'm more than willing to do it since I bought the 60* countersink bit which was $30 and I've got 6 more bolts since 10 came in a box. Shipping plus $5 for two bolts and a little towards the bit.

 

my 10 bolt has been holding up fine with the A4, but I plan to go 3.73's soon. I guess in the meantime I'll gather parts and maybe a new rear end housing all together to do the work on and build her up! this looks promising and I would really love to learn how do this type of work myself.

 

im thinking of gathering parts for this.. will probably go with LPWs kit and maybe even their rear cover too. Do most of you guys doing this get new axles as well? Im trying to get a rundown of what im getting myself into

 

I didn't get new axles when I did it.

 

Neither will I get new axles. I was going to, since I was worried about losing a wheel if I broke an axle. But then I realized the disc brake caliper should keep the wheel/broken axle from coming out if that happens.

 

Cool setup, I'll bet an automatic transmission wouldn't have an easy time killing that 10 bolt. I think a 400rwhp M6 with a good clutch would still do it in though.

 

We'll find out. I've got an automatic but will be around 450 rwhp. My brother-in-law has a M6 and will be around 380. We both installed this setup and we both drive really hard.

 

I ordered the 341-A LPW Standard Brace Kit. Looks the same as PWIRCH used. Now I see there is also a '343-A for Minimum Depth Applications' that is recommended for F bodies. Anybody know the specific differences?

From: http://www.jdsperformance.com/index....=item&inmake=0
"The minimum brace provides minimum chassis interference and is recommended for 1982-02 Camaro/Firebirds and 1979-04 Mustangs.

 

I think it's just the length of the tubes. I got the standard which has 2 17" long tubes. I had to cut them down to 8" each (I only cut up one into two 8" pieces). With the heims on the ends that was as long as they could be to not interfere with other brackets on the axle.

 

ever think about building up some more and selling them?

 

I've thought about it but there really isn't much too it aside from the arms. The brackets still need to be welded to the axle tubes so it isn't much more to weld the arms together. I'd be more than happy to weld up the arms for anyone who wants them done.

 

btw, does this have everything for abs to work?

 

Not sure what you mean? This is just a differential cover and arms that weld to the axle. Nothing internal in the differential changes.

I haven't had any ABS light or issues with driving.

 

Maybe, but I would call that 'minimum width'. I think it's likely that the minimum depth style recommended for F bodies would have a different fastener/spacer setup, avoiding the need to countersink allen bolts for panhard clearance. Anybody else using this approach may want to try that version instead if they want the minimal effort approach. Note that a JEGS search did not even list the F-body version, but LPW and JDSPerformance do list it.

Mine is finished now. I actually like PWIRCH's inboard-rod-end mounting approach better than what comes with the kit. The countersunk heads will prevent any lateral slip at the inboard ends of the rods, whereas the stock bolt has a small radial clearance and would thus rely largely on preload to prevent sliding at that joint. With axle hop or reversing, I think there could be some slipping there, which would allow more flex of the bolts and axle cover. I will keep an eye on the modified center strap in case any cracks develop where material has been removed. Looks fine, but there will be very high loads on that strap; it is the actual stressed member that takes (almost) all the tension. Easy enough to make a steel strap if necessary.

ZDaddys welded cover setup that started this thread is cooler yet IMHO, but I wasn't too confident welding aluminum that thick, and I told myself when I bought my TIG that I'd have to stop paying welders! Thanks to both of you for the examples.

 

So do we have any results on this yet? I will be doing my rear in about a month, and if it works I wouldnt mind getting one too. Anyone tested on on ET Drag Radials?