That's why I love posting on this site. P.S. Try some slicks!

 

Alright guys, I finally made some time to write up a short install on mine. It has a list of parts, where to get them and prices of everything.

http://www.geocities.com/duragizer444/install.html

 

dude. Once again
thank you for all this info. Very much needed

 

No problem.. good luck with your project

 

STICKY! STICKY! STICKY!

 

I know this is old, but I'm gonna go ahead and bump this.. My buddy found this thread for me seeing as I had a HARD time finding it, for some reason...

I'm pretty sure I'm gonna go ahead and do this.. Cheap and easy first, ya know? My buddy and I are basically building street cars.. Both are already Heads and cammed at over 500 hp.. But we don't do a lot of drag racing (if any) and our rears are still stock (2000 and a 2002) and we both want gears on a TIGHT budget. (And I'm concerned about weight)

I'm wondering, if there was the problem of the axle tubes walking FORWARD, couldn't you place the reinforcement braces on the FRONT of the rear housing?? Brace them from the front of the axle tubes to the gussets near the 'rear' of the pinion?? Radiused tube steel on one end, and fab something up for the 'pinion' end. I just noticed that you're basically risking strength on a metal that is weaker than steel = ALUM. Granted, the weld SHOULD be stronger than the original piece, but still.

You may have more room..

Just an idea, and no I didn't read too far into this to see if anyone else had suggested it..

Something like this.. (Sorry for the MSPaint, I lost my Photoshop CS3 when my Hard drive crashed. )

 

The problem I see in it is that it is very difficult to get a strong weld on the nodular iron center section. This is one of the main reasons why it is so hard to fab up a torque arm mount on a rear end that doesnt have one, such as a 12 bolt or ford 8.8"... And speaking of the torque arm, the drivers side link on your setup would hit the torque arm that is mounted on the side of the housing...

 

I hear ya... I like to fab stuff, and I thought I found a different way to do it.. I'll eventually get the rear off (or buy another one) and sit and stare at it for a while.. I'll most likely end up going with your original idea.

Still, good work do0d! This'll be perfect for my car...

 

Bayer - I suppose a tubular torque arm might allow you to configure this on the front, but the loads would try to compress the rods and the housing instead of putting tension on the rods and rear cover assembly. With thin or curvy hollow stuff, compression is not the best loadcase.

Note that with the rear mounted configuration, if set up right, the loads are carried by the cover section, or separate strap across the 2 inboard heim joint bolts. The strap in the kits is aluminum and needs to have the chamfered holes and tapered fasteners to better carry the tension loads and keep them out of the cover. I should probably make a steel one. Hazard's cover is so beefy I don't think it is the weak link.

Mine has dozens of passes so far (75 maybe?) and is AOK. I used a bit more tension preload than suggested; they are pretty tight. Maybe 1/4 turn past 'no slop', so they slightly pull the tubes rearward, although you can't see that.

 

Bayer.... did you ever get this fabbed up?

 

What type of wire/electrode did you use to weld the axle tubes to the iron center section? Did you preheat the casting or did you weld it in small passes to keep it cool?

 

Glad to see this post still gets some hits. Love to see the "alterations" in design and different thought processes.

I have destroy a couple T5 transmissions lately, but the differential is still holding up to the extreme RWHP.

Later guys,

Zdaddy

 

This should definitely by a sticky.

 

hazard2k THANK YOU for the writeup!

This should definitely be a sticky! I always have a hard time finding this thread also.