Injuneer

ridiqls

Hey Gary, just wanted to say thanks again. Your tool is invaluable and I'm impressed at how much can be done with it. First time working with a scanner so I had a lot of to learn but now that I know, I can really appreciate it more.

If you follow my thread, your program was very crucial in helping me understand my car in order to deal with the emissions issue.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1-based-engine-tech-9/new-engine-wont-pass-emissions-high-nox-887047/

GaryDoug

You are very welcome. Thanks for the feedback.

tylerwerrin

Thanks again for creating this software. It's so easy to use and works every time.

y5e06

This software works great! thanks
I had a really old laptop with RS232 and Freescan. that died a few years back but the car has been sitting the better part of 5 years too, so I didn't need anything. I'm reviving the ol' girl and so I followed through with updating.

I used Scan9495 and made my own cable.
-I used a FTDI USB cable, 1 Diode, 1 1K Ohm resistor, and a 2-pin weatherpack type connector.. just like this write up: Impala SS Forum Post
It worked great. cable was $7 or so on ebay. diode and resistor are cheap. also, I cut off my OBD II type port years ago which is why I used the 2-pin. I had been using alligator clips to the tan wire & ground with my old AKM serial port cable.... This is a race car and I only need the tan wire and ground anyway. I soldered the components together, lots of heat shrink for reinforcement, added a 2-pin connector for car/cable and tested it all out. Works great. I also tried EEHack but I like the Scan9495, especially the ability to easily toggle fans and other components on/off for testing.

I think I have windows 10 (sorry, I don't pay attention to such things), the cable driver auto-updated from windows, and everything fired right up without a hitch.

A number of these forum posts just wire the RX and TX wires together for the USB and connect to the ALDL. I added the diode and resistor as I came across that recommendation a few times.

Injuneer

Goose86d

Thanks Gary! We need to keep this thread alive for folks who need to review codes on their 94/95. Crazy these two years are so odd. My reason for needing this was a check engine light. I simply made the cable, downloaded the program, and bam it works. I ran into a bit of trouble with the cable but corrected my issue with Gary's help. Thanks for responding so quickly Gary!

GaryDoug

On the 93-95 cars those components should not be needed although it won't hurt to use them. Before 93, the ECM data output circuit was over-loaded by the cable components, so it needed some isolation, especially when using either the RS232 and/or 2-transistor inverter circuit. On the newer ECM's the output drive is more robust and the USB-serial FTDI module does not load very much. However I have noticed that on my Chevy/Mercruiser 5.7L boat engine, the cable does need those parts in order to work reliably.

chevykid

GaryDoug

I just remembered i have a Hypertech #345752 that i bought years ago, is this of any use with your program?

Thanks

GaryDoug

No, it is not. My program does no tuning/programming.

chevykid

Maybe i can trace out the cable and use it with USB FTDI cable and use it for you program and Hypertech too.
I'll just put a DB15 Male end on the USB FTDI.

Does it have to be a 'FTDI' chip or can you use a silabs CP2102 chip? it says its ttl 232 output.

GaryDoug

Must be FTDI. I know of no other device that supports the oddball 8192 baud rate.

chevykid

I did some searching and found that this chip can be programed to do 8192, but i also found out that the port on the car is really doing 8228 baud rate and the reason people use 8192 is in the old days that was the closest baud rate computer had to use. But i guess this chip can also be programed to do 8228 too! the specs i found was Baud rates: 300 bps to 1 Mbps.

DonLivingood

Just checking to see if this thread is still active.

Thanks

DonLivingood

GaryDoug are you still avalable?