does anyone have the measurements to do this mod on a lt1 intake?

i have a distributor ready to go!!!!!

 

NO i dont have any measurements for the cutting of an lt1 style intake. I know it can be done, and has been done. Also have heard good things about www.lt1intakes.com, but you have already found that site. Good luck.

 

i have 1 intake cut up for the egr boss removal... which i think is going to be a must for this mod, all i did was take a sazzall and a grinder and remove the material off of the back of the manifold. its looks a lil messy, but once i go over it was a small grinder wheel, i'll be able to clean up the holes and the cut lines before i weld them clean with a plate of aluminum..

i'll try and get pics up of the finshed product before i weld by the end of this week, pics will be process by process!!!!!

good luck to all who try this... looks like its a 100$ to mod the intake for the hole... then you need to remove the egr boss and weld up... shop told me 50$ but i'm gonna try myself and it was 150 for the msd #121-84697

so thats 300 and i'll never need an opti fix again!!!!!

 

I ordered a MSD #8489 and #8531 to be delivered 2nd day from jegs for $195!

The Intake need to go back to the welder for some other work so I will just get this done while I am at it

Hope fully I will not have to cut up the EGR stuff to much as we would like to keep it. The intake Is the prototype for a prodution run if all goes well

 

well then where's the pics of your intake? we wanna see too. if all goes well, how much you gonna ask w/exchange?

 

I'm a little confused. What distributor are you using? Where does the 'puter get it's reference signal from? Are you using a crank trigger?

 

His post is a little misleading. He still has the Opti, and he's using the high and low res pulse signals. I clarified that in a post several below the one you quoted. Gotta read the whole thread.

 

With all due respect Fred, I did read the whole thread and I was still confused. There appears to be two different people talking about doing this swap. One is altjar. Who started the thread, he is still using the optical part of the optispark and the stock PCM. I understand that.

The other guy, the person I quoted, is 96Z/28SS. He is using the Fast system and claims to have removed his optispark all together. No where in his post did he mention anything about still using the high and low res pulses from the opti. That's why I asked.

 

he would have to be using the crank trigger and sends that to the FAST system.

 

Yes thats right with the FAST system I took the opti out, I'm running a crank trigger infront of the crank pulley. on my website you can see pictures of the crank trigger and picture of the timing cover with no opti holes in it, I had them welded shut.

 

REGARDING CUTTING A DISTRIBUTOR HOLE IN THE BACK OF A STOCK LT-1 INTAKE.....

There is a guy by the name of John Millican over on Thirdgen.org (and other places) who does conversions of LT-1 intakes for use on earlier (non-LT-1) small block Chevys.

Who cares? Well..... one of the things he does is drill them out for use with a typical gen-1 SBC rear distributor. Might want to track him down and ask a few questions. The few times I have corresponded with him he was very cordial and freely gave information on what he knew.

In fact, I asked him about this procedure specifically and, as I recall, it was pretty simple and didn't require super-tight tolerance machining to make it work properly.

 

nope with a slip collar Distributor like the one listed it should be easy to set up.

I am going to just have it built up where the Dist goes and then mill it flat. next i will bolt it to the block and use an old distributor to mark and cut the hole

Hope fully it works out!

 

On your website, one of the pictures mentions that it was "a bit of a pain" to get the distributor in. Does that mean you can get it in and out with the engine in the? Or is the "pain" the fact that you have to drop the engine down. I always figured you would have to lower the engine a little bit. I suppose that dropping the engine down a little bit is not much harder than getting to the optispark is anyway.

Dustin

 

Its a bit of a pain cause you need to drop the k-member just a tad.
Its alot easier than swaping out an opti-spark. With the removing the opti you need to drain the coolant and need new waterpump gaskets and its just a big pain in the butt. With the distributor in the back the way I see it is, its maintenance free, if you need to change the cap or rotor its easy to get to no need to pull the whole distributor out. So droping the k-member you only need to do it once. You only need to remove the 6 bolts on the k-member and lift the body an inch or so, you don't need to completely drop the motor you can leave the brake lines, coolant lines, and swaybar all attached its so simple to do.

 

Well I got my Distridutor today. It is much lower then the one 96Z28SS is using so it might come out a little better. I am hoping any ways