I'm not sure why moving the distributor gives the results - "Yeah, but it's advancing and retaring within certain limits." The distributor can't alter the timing, unless the rotor is so far behind the contact when the coil sends the voltage pulse that it delays firing until the rotor gets close enough to the contact to jump the gap. You will lose advance, and you will loose spark energy in that case. Get the rotor far enough from the cap button and its not going to fire the plug at all, giving exactly the results described in the initial post.

The objective in locating the rotor with reference to the cap contacts would be to insure that over the full range of advance settings for the "performance" part of your application, the rotor contact is immediately adjacent to the cap contact. You could simply look at the Opti to see how GM chose to phase the FIXED relationship of the rotor to the cap contacts.

 

We put a Motown 427 in a 94 trans am and we were able to remove the HEI that came on the motor "without" droping the subframe!.
Now you have to remove the cap & rotor to do so but nothing to bad at all. We replaced that hei with a msd 8570 pro-billet small dia without moving the motor from its place.

With those that have a intake conversion to a single plane why not go rearmount since you have the provisions all ready there for it?
The cost of a crank trigger dis is under $160 and most every one who has a LT1 already has some sort of ingition box on the car so the fire power is there and the abilty to expand without throwing to much money away.

 

hey guys,

i'm gonna do this.. will this work okay with thew pcm... i dont care about screwing around with a extra manifold... i just wanna know that this will work witht the computer and that we can tune this to work seemlessly!!!!

i wanna know that this will work before i go ahead any futher ya know?

 

Yes it works fine with the stock PCM. I have the stock obd1 computer. In the future it will work with a fast/DFI setup too if you ever get that far in your modding

Fred... Good post as are a bunch of the others. Just phase it like the opti was, KISS right?

As for the LTCC/Delteq issues. I wasnt trying to start anything at all by my poor mans delteq comment. A few of my buddies have that and the system runs really well. This was just much cheaper for me to go this route.

 

so let me get this straight atljar. you have a supervic intake w/inj. bungs, w/the crank trigger dist., using the opti just the same w/the rotor removed, what are you using for a throttle body/maf/airfilter setup? sounds very interesting.

 

Check out the single plane intake thread!

 

sweet. me searching now. thanks. must have missed it.
chris

 

so how do we make this work on a regular lt1 intake?

 

Maldo Please do not be offened by our attempt to make our low budget system work. Your system is great and it is on my list. BUT I have got to tell you I can do this for $200 and not have to find a place for the coils

I am in. I already have a prototype intake built why not cut one more hole and try it?

 

I also like how the dis. is mounted in the back like they should be. Now people that have never seen an LT1 can see the dis. How many times have we gotten the..."Your distributor is WHERE?? Doesn't it get wet???" or another famous one..."Why would GM put the bleed screws for the coolant system right above of the distributor??"

Even though this got off topic a little bit....this is going to be a very useful thread in the future.

 

i'm sending a intake out for machining on monday guys, anyone use a lt1intake.com intake?

i figure i'd use there intake and remove the rest of the EGR boss's to make clearance and then weld any holes up!!!

 

anyone know what distrubtor will fit behind a lt1 intake?

 

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...06_14_full.jpg

Just got some pics back. Nothing of the distributor specifically, but you can at least see it here, and get a rough idea of clearance.

 

it does sit nice and low that is for sure!

 

Look's great Atljar..