Yes ideally you should move the coil too, i didnt. Just ran the longer coil wire.

The ECM controls the coil. Think of the opti hi/res wheels as a basic crank trigger, it tells the PCM where it is. Fires the coil.

I phased it at about 6 degrees right now. Honestly havent gotten a chance to test that out and see how it runs. May play with it later on to 0 as suggested by some members.

Part is MSD8489
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...32&prmenbr=361

You need to get rid of the bronze gear unless you have billet cam gear.

 

I don't mean to hijack your thread (that is not my intent) but when you start adding up the cost of a distributor and time the Delteq system comes in to be cheaper and with less headaches to install. Plus you don't have to worry about drilling the back of the intake..... Just a thought because drilling the back to place a disturber is a really cool idea but if it’s not done right you will have more problems then you like

Even from a maintenance perspective (if you have take the intake off for some reason you would have to drop the motor down to get it out and set up again.

Jim

 

David....

If you think about it, all he did was replace the cap/rotor of the Opti with the cap/rotor of his rear mounted distributor. The 4 wire connector for the Opti is for the optical sensor, not for the cap/rotor. He has left that "half" of the Opti intact. The only connections to the Opti for high voltage are the plug wires and the coil wires. He still has "guts" in his distributor... you need the rotor to be pointing at the correct plug wire contact when the coil fires. The ignition timing, firing sequence, etc. is controlled by the PCM, and the "fire" signal is sent to the IC Module (white wire from PCM to terminal B on the module) at the correct time. He has simply moved the high voltage out of the Opti, and to a rear mounted distributor.

Clutter???...... find the 8 LS1-style coils on this engine :

http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun.../DCP02764c.jpg

 

MALDO....why are there multiple people with their LTCC boxes screwing up then? Not even trained techs could find the problem. Try to help out Hot Rod Hawk with this problem...I solved mine already.

INJUNEER...I do agree that the radiator bracket hides alot of the "clutter", if you want to call it that. I made some custom brackets that held the coils in place right wear the new distributor is going.

96Z28SS...do you mind pming me with your measurements? I know that ours are not going to be the same because I milled the manifold out larger than what I should have, hense me having to make that collar. But I could still be wrong and off a few milli. Thank you for your help!

Has anyone else thats done this relocated the coil???

 

if i did this.... would i be able to use a msd box and a sbc distributer like he did... i like the ltcc and delteq set ups.. but i cant use thm because i need a rev limiter and i have one now... i'm not buy more ignition equipment later on!!!!!

 

Yes it works with the msd box. Im running the 6al, nothing wiring changes or anything like that to run it compared to how its wired standardly.

 

Where to "set" the rear distributor for best phasing......hmmmmm ................

I'll take a crack at this. The LT-1 Opti distributor is given ALL of it's timing advance by the chip programming. From 0* ECM-supplied advance to a maximum of probably about 45-50* advance at high RPMs under light loads. Divide those numbers in half for the amount of phasing variance at the distributor's rotor (in degrees). So, if it's 50* from minimum advance to maximum advance in the chip that would be 25* of rotor "sweep" inside the distributor from minimum advance to maximum advance.

I'd split the difference from there. 12* (actual rotor angle) AFTER the rotor tip passes the plug terminal at 0* ECM-supplied advance to 12* (actual rotor angle) BEFORE the rotor timp passes the plug terminal at maximum ECM-supplied advance (our theoretical 50* max advance at the crank supplied by the ECM).

Above is the THEORY of how I would set it up.

Here's how I would ACTUALLY do it.....

Get a spare cap for the "crab" and drill a big assed hole in it near the #1 plug terminal so you can actually SEE the direction of the rotor if you put a timing light on it while connected to the #1 plug wire. (Sorry, I'm sure caps for these things ain't cheap, but it's the only way I know how to do it right.) With the motor revved up to about 2000-2500 twist the distributor back and forth until the timing light shows the rotor is pointed straight at the #1 plug terminal. THAT is where I would set it for best rotor phasing.

I am in NO WAY and EFI guru but I've set the phasing on a distributor or two and I beleive that despite the ECM controls of the timing doing their thing in the backround, setting rotor phasing in this very simple, basic, easy to understand way is probably still quite valid. I welcome imput on this from those more experienced in electronic timing control while still using a distributor.

 

Damon..that makes a lot of sense because thats the way my old man taught me how to phase...but what I think is happening is that when you actually turn it to a certain degree...it doesnt do anything except when theres so much advantace timing it kills the motor. It might work though, wish I had this on my car right now to help with the problem. Then again, I have my doubts because the computer is retarding and advancing constantly anyway in various conditions. Am I there or not even close???

 

Yeah, but it's advancing and retaring within certain limits. I beleive those limits will be along a spread of about 0-50* from the minimum ever possible to the maximum ever possible. So you shoot for a happy medium and do the best you can. When you're wide open you'll probably only cover a spread of about 16* ECM-supplied advance to about 36* ECM-supplied advance. That's not much rotor sweep (10* in this case: 36 - 16 = 20*. Divided by 2 = 10* sweep at the rotor).

Old non-computer controlled distiributors were easy to set phasing becuase the centrifugal advance mechanism kept the rotor in phase with the cap at all times becuase it moved the rotor and the advance plate at the same time by the same amount. The phasing was the same regardless of RPM (assuming you kept the vacuum advance disconnected).

With the ECM controlling timing the phasing is CONSTANTLY changing with the advance the ECM is calling for. So you have to find a "happy medium" and give it a try. That's why I suggested 2000-2500 RPMs in neutral. That's probably going to put the ECM-supplied advance somewhere in the middle of it's range and so should be a pretty reasonable starting point.

Now, if you could find a daredevil midget and have him check your rotor phasing with a timing light while crouching under the hood of your car as you make a full throttle run down the dragstrip you could nail it dead-bang perfect for WOT phasing in an RPM range that matters while you're drag racing. I'm personally fresh out of daredevil midgets or I would loan you one, which is why I'm trying instead to "estimate" a decent, sane, middle-of-the-road RPM to check phasing just revving the engine up in your driveway.

 

Hmmm..

This thread changed alot from the first post LOL. I came equiped to prove the man wrong and then it was pinted out we were not fully informed of the Mod

This one I might try!

Altjar can you get the distributor out with out pulling the motor with the intake on?


GREAT way to go man thanks a TON!

 

Ellis its going to be very close pulling the distributor without dropping the motor out. I think you may be able to to it, but it would be so close. Id say you have 4 inches between the cap and the cowl. Remove the cap and the rotor, and you have about 5, plus the depth you have to play with in the lifter valley, and well its really close.

I would say yes, or if not, if you loosened the front suspension and got the body up an inch or so from the K member, you would get it for sure.

 

It would be very important to be able to remove it at the track when needed. As we know dropping the K-Member at the track is out

 

In that case, with the intake still bolted down, id say its not possible. You will need to unbolt the intake and move it torwards front of car as you tilt the shaft to get it out.

 

The spelling error on Jeg's website cracked me up: "Chevy V8, Super Tall Block Crank Trigger Distributor with Crap Cap"

 

Sorry as a vendor I really don’t want to comment or add my 2cent about other products that have problems but, with our Delteq units there was a ton of R&D time that went into this product to make it work and to get rid of all those gremlins that others can’t seem to shake. Trust me the engineers who worked on that little Opti direct box did an awesome job to make sure there were no problems before it was released to the public.
The opti box from Delteq is truly a masterpiece and many of you on this board can testify how well it works (Especially you high HP guys who run a ton of boost which had problems breaking up at high rpm). So I am not sure why some would go through the trouble to cut up your intake to drop a distributor in that cramped space. (I am not trying to bash the idea just merely offing an alternative because our system will also work with DFI too)
If you are looking to removing the high voltage out of the opti we offer a solution without having to cut up the intake and has zero maintenance for about the same price or less. This system also does not need the aid of an MSD box to get a hotter spark and has been tested in cars up to 1200 hp. So whether you run a blower nitrous etc this system can provide plenty of spark to keep all of you happy.
You can bolt one of my systems and go with out modifying one thing. Check out some of the install pictures from my link and you will see what I mean.