speed specialty, if you can just send me a new one that would be great b/c i already have holes drilled for switch and leds , If you could give me an address to ship it back to that would be great thanks

 

SpeedSpecialty - After over 2 hours connecting, disconnecting, reversing soldering processes, trying diff. groungs, measuring every possible V, A, everything - I have come to the conclusing that the resistors in fan wires are taking away 10.89V, alloving my fans to operate on under 2V (not possible), so in return, the fans do nothing. When I remove your resistors (I forgot the resistor values, but you get the idea), the fan runs fine. However, the purpose of the resistors is to prevent a check engine light. I have the feeling the wrong resistor value was shipped with my unit.

So after all, it is not the switch - but the pre soldered/heat shrunk wires, with the resistors.

What I would like done is this: please, send me a replacement unit for a 1997 OBDII LT1 Z28 w/ a BLUE LED for LO FAN and a RED LED for HI-FAN. I don't know what value, etc the resistors are in the other units you ship, but I would like a replacement send ASAP. I WILL get you the unit that does not, and will not work on my car back to you, I assure you of this. I just do not have the time to wait for my unit to reach you before I am sent a replacement, so please get the replacement out ASAP - I need it by the end of the week. I know you may have little control over this, but please alert your supplier, and let them know my findings - in that the resistors to the fan wires were allowing very little current to the fans.

I emailed shipping information and PMd it if it is not on file. I hope that this post serves useful to those experiencing similar problems. Remove the resistors (on the blue and green wires, NOT the resistors to the LED), your fan will work....but you may throw a code. Thanks.

 

The problems are not your fault - I understand. What I do not understand is why you have to receive the original first to examine for craftsmanship errors before you send a replacement. Im assuming that this is because as you stated, there has yet to be a craftsmanship problem and you would have a bunch of custom switches that would be difficult to resell if you just sent replacements out left and right.

However, I'm hoping that since I have examined it and reported the problem, that you can just send me the replacement I asked for above. I would just let your supplier know what I found to be the problem, so they are sure to get to proper resistor values to prevent an SES code, AND allow juice to the fan to run. Sorry for the push in time, but I need this replacement as soon as possible. Thanks.

 

Well, technically, it still is our problem. You bought something, it does not work as promised so we need to get it worked out for you.

We sell many of these, and they all use the same parts. I suppose errors can happen, so we still definitely want to make it right for you.

Because we have had a problem once before with a similar situation on a different item where we never received the original back. This is not implying anything about YOU personally, of course.

Regardless, we'll get something worked out for you. Check the e-mail I just sent.

 

Thank you.

What I'm willing to pay for the faulty product and have it refunded when you receive the original. I'll contact you via email. Thanks again.

 

speed specialty i pmed u

 

Honestly I didn't have any problems. Just grounded the ground wire, gave the hot wire a key on 12+. Then just found the two switch wires for the fans and connected the corresponding wires from the switch. Shoebox on here has a PCM pinout of all year models. Look his web page up and that will tell u exactly what wires from the pcm are your fan activator wires. Alsowith a volt meter ya can quickly find a key wire. My was a little different being as it is in my s10 but princilpe is still the same.

Hope ya get it straight,
Howard

 

Yes - I understand that. I took voltage readings of every pin to be sure I in fact did have the correct one. I even ran a 2ft wire from the pin to the ground directly, and the fans turned on. Knowing that, I thoguht it may be the switch, so I ran extra wire I had from other projects from the switch to the fan wires. It worked, but as soon as I put the blue and green wires back into play, it didn't...so obviously something was wrong on that end. The only thing I could think of was the resistors in the wires. So I removed that portion of the wire, and the fans worked. I tried switching the resistors around thinking maybe the wrong value went to the wrong side, but that also didn't work. When measuriing Voltage then, I noticed the resistors were taking away almost 11V, not giving enough to get the fans running.

 

The value of the resistors in the fan wires is supposed to be 47 Ohms to prevent SES code. There should be 3 of these. 1 for the green wire, 2 in parallel for the blue - making 23.5 ohms. The resistors I have didnt quite make this mark.

The resistor I have looks like this: {Yellow Violet Brown Gold}

That comes to 470 Ohms...NOT 47 Ohms.


Only thing I can think of that may have gone wrong when they placed these resistors in my unit, is that the Brown band on the resistor looked black. It would then have looked like this: {Yellow Violet Black Gold}
--And if it looked like that to them, they would have read it as a 47 Ohm resistor, the correct value that should be in my car.

 

fredmr- i have a 93z i dont think it will throw codes if i pull the resistors , did you just slice the heat shrink and cut them out and resolder the wires? thanks

 

I cut the heat shrunk portion out compltely, and connected the ends w/o the resistor. If it wont throw codes, this will work - and if it does, you can always splce the resistors back in if there are other problems. This loses you about 4 inches of wire though, but you can always add more wire. I would first remove the resistors, and tie the ends together, start the car - wait a while to see if it throws a code - that way if it does, you didn't waste your time soldering wires together. Also, let me know the resistance in your resistors if you have a multimeter. Hope everything works out for ya.


---If you have resistors in your fan wiring, remove them - you will not throw codes on OBDI...if fact, what's the difference between OBDI and II switches if yours has resistors? The only resistors that SHOULD have been in your unit are 470 Ohm resistors to the LEDS.

 

speed specialty I pmed you. I need help with this switch.

 

I received my switch a few days ago, and it also doesn't work This is after waiting almost a month. I'm chalking it to another bad buying expirence. Man I've been burned about 10 times in the last month.....guess it's time to stop buying on the net.

 

Now things are really getting interesting. We are starting to wonder if there was production problems after all.

We will not let this turn into a bad buying experience. If this is a fault of ours, we will make it right. I am currently working with our supplier to narrow down what could have possibly went wrong.

 

Thanks for the reply...but I already stomped the sh## out of the parts. So it's not going to help me. But honestly thanks for at least accepting that there is a problem.