Alright, I'm bored at work and have been thinking of why I am going to get a window switch. 1)So it doesn't spray below 3k rpms, 2) So it doesn't spray during the shifts.
Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but when it shifts, the rpms will drop below the shut off rpm (say 5500rpms), and as soon as it drops below 5500rpms, it will turn the nitrous back on while it is still shifting. So, the nitrous will still spray while the tranny's shifting, just not the whole length of the shift. BTW, I have a A4.
Instead of a window switch, I'm going to being getting only a rpm activation switch and shift light (to let me know when to turn off the nitrous with the switch).
I do have a wide-open switch, too.
Anyone else ever think of this, or am I making no sense at all with my window switch/shifting theory?

Later
Crazy

 

Lower rpm in the window prevents activation at low RPM where the high cylinder pressures will break something. Higher rpm in the window shuts the nitrous off before the PCM hits the rev limiter and cuts fuel, and breaks something.

 

Injuneer:
I completely forgot about the whole revlimiter/fuel cut-off. I guess I'm forcing myself to spend the $ and get the window switch now.

Later
Crazy

 

I have a clutch switch; is a window switch better or pretty much the same?

 

I presume a clutch switch is a momentary switch on your clutch pedal somewhere, that would turn off the nitrous system when the clutch was depressed, right?

In that case, it's unrelated to a window switch. A window switch will shut off the nitrous below a selected rpm, and above another selected rpm.

Dave

 

With an M6, I'm not sure why you would need a clutch switch, as long as you have a WOT switch. Lifting throttle slightly on the shifts will deactivate the nitrous. I guess if you were keeping your foot on the floor on shifts, the clutch switch would make sense. With the TH400, I spray right through the shifts, so that's not an issue.

 

Fred said most of it. One other thing: a window switch can be a help in getting the car to launch. Bring in the N2O too low and not only may you break parts, you may also lose traction. I use mine that way, bring it in lower on a good track, higher when it's slippery.

Rich Krause

 

That's a good point about traction rskrause.

redcamaroz28, feel free to write me at mike@bmnracetech.com to discuss your setup!

 

Just got back from the first time spraying at the track and here's what I ran:
1st run:
R/t . . .575
60' . . .2.185
330' . .5.880
1/8 . . .8.803
MPH . .83.29
1000' .11.378
1/4 . . .13.491
MPH . .107.93

2nd run:
R/t . . .828
60' . . .2.241
330' . .5.884
1/8 . . .8.770
MPH . .83.79
1/4 . . .13.354
MPH . .109.56

First run I only sprayed in 2nd and 3rd, and the last run I sprayed briefly in 1st and in 2nd/3rd.. I need DR's, as I was running on my street tires and couldn't get good traction till almost the 330' (My best 1/8 N/A is 8.563 w/ nittos, and todays best was a 8.770 ). With some DRs and a little traction, I should be in the 12 sec club.
This is with the jettings for I believe a 100 shot. I see now how the window switch is a MAJOR safety device, as I almost didn't shut off the n20 in time before it shifted and hit the rev limiter. So now the window switch/FPSS are on the way. Also, if I had anywhere decent traction, rskrause's suggestion about the launching would be a great idea for launching on the spray.


Thanks
Crazy

 

Can you provide some more info on this "clutch switch"?

I've got an M6, and I don't lift the gas pedal when I shift.