I swapped my 12-bolt in totally alone, rear subframes on jackstands, and a floor jack. Dropped the old 10-bolt, jacked up the 12-bolt, and never disconnected the brakes at all, hence no need to bleed.

The "hatch" should be done carefully, and correctly. Rounded corners (not square), fully sealed patch panel with adequate pop rivets or sheet metal screws.

 

Electric shear made quick work of the hole.
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I dropped the tank, wasn't hard, but time consuming alone. My first full fill up and I think the float is stuck up because the tank hadn't moved from full since. Car is getting painted now, so I haven't had a chance to run it lower to see if it breaks free.

Would have been no sweat fix if I had gone trap door. DOH!

 

Here is a video of my old runs, the car would have done so much better if when I floor it from a stop it didnt take forever to get into the higher RPMs.

The 10second runs were because the track was cold and when my car shifted to 2nd my tires would just spin and not hook up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dbORYu2eTk

 

My car stays full for much longer than any car I have ever owned. One time on a different car I had the pump turned a little from the original setting and the float would not work until I adjusted it. Dropping the tank the 2nd time was not what I wanted to do.

 

I'm going to change my FPR for the heck of it. And my pump shouldn't be here till Friday...

I'm planning on putting a 160thermo in, think any speed shop can turn my fans down to turn on earlier? If so what should I tell them to turn te fans on at?

 

Yes that should work fine,i was looking @that same option over 2 yrs. ago when i was checking for a replacement if necessary.

 

W/a 160 t-stat i have the first fan to come on @180 % & the other @190.I had Madz28 do this ,& some other things when i sent him my pcm.

 

Have you tried to maximize your combo yet?The cleaning of the maf was a start but other things like new plugs,a scanner to see if you have kr,a hi flow cat,new injectors,etc & then run the car again at drag strip& then if no improvement shown then do the fuel pump as a last resort.I just bought some remanufactured Rochester 24 lb. injectors which i will install along w/ new plugs , a leakdown/compression test,and test the fuel pump w/ fuel pressure gauge test &3.73 gears as soon car comes out of storage.I could easily replace the fuel pump if i really "wanted something to do" but that isn,t cost-effective.Just my Opinion.

 

While I'm waiting on the racetronix pump from Canada... I went ahead
And bought a 160 thermo and put that in, and I plan on making a manual fan switch today as well. Also bought an OEM regulator just cuz... Torque converter should har
Been shipped out yesterday, 3600 yank SS baby can't wait for the freaking pump though. I want to see what my car is really capable of.

 

What did you find out about the cam ?

 

Idk if there is one or not. My grandpa called my cousin and all he said was he had the computer sent out and tuned and the mods that I can see. My cousin says he also has some chip for the computer but I don't think you can chip a 94.

 

No chip for 94, but I had a resistor for one of the sensors. Might be something like that. You can usually tell from a sound video if the cam is stock. I always wondered if you could tell the old tune and what was done or if that was not readable. I was told mine had a cam, which it didn't so it is usually to sell for more money and make the car look better.

 

I'll record a sound clip of the call for y'all, and i got the manual fan switch made. Was real easy only using the high setting.

 

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Here's the idle. drag race was put off till next Thursday. Maybe I'll get my pump, stall and regulator in.