He said they are 649. But I'm sure they are 643. Sent me a pic of the casting close up and I can't really tell if it's a 3 or 9. But he only wants $100

 

This is what little I know (and there are smarter people than me who are already helping):

Your baseline ET isn't worth anything because you didn't hook up.
Buy some drag radials and practice launching to establish a decent baseline.

All the fuel pressure on the world will not help if you don't have good flow. Have you replaced the stock fuel filter?

Heads are where power is made but they need a matched cam and valves to do their job efficiently and at the minimum mail order tune to match the capability of your modifications.

Have you changed the coil? Is the opti working properly? Older wiring harnesses become brittle and can be a source of many little problems that can be difficult to track down. Same for an old ground wire.

As far as chassis mods, I am a believer in as little as possible until something needs to be changed. Yes I have drag springs and shocks on my car, the front sway bar is removed, and I have an airbag over the passenger rear. But that is it. The six point welded roll bar provides enough stiffness so I never needed any extra suspension work.

If the transmission is soft in second that is a problem in my experience. I have been through a few transmissions and second is usually the first gear to slip in my experience.

I also highly recommend a blanket over any transmission that is going to be used at the track to go along with a good quality transmission cooler. Even my slow street car was able to blow up the transmission and put a piece of case through my right leg...

Anyway, good luck, have fun, and be safe.

 

I though about drag radials. But I don't want the rear to explode on a launch that hooks. Yes i have changed the stock fuel filter. I changed the coil just not the wire because it has a 8mm wire on it. My cousin changed the opti when he had it. The only suspension mod I know of is subframe connectors. My trans shifted hard into 2nd before I got my torque converter. It still kind of does at WOT. But normal driving it shifts smooth. Honestly until I see my new track times. I'm disappointed in the torque converter. I feel it was not worth the $700 unless there is something wrong with my car which is hindering the performance feel you get from higher stall.

 

The person that will port my heads I'm sure will guide me on what camshaft to get.

 

If it is a lockup converter you should add a switch if you are going to drive it on the street. Easier on everything (less heat) and better fuel mileage... Of course I elected to not have my tranny electronically controlled so my info may not be valid in your case.

 

I think it's lockup. Yank ss3600. How do I add a lockup switch? I'm Guessing mine is electronically controlled so then ya it wouldn't work.

 

Some cars need retuned after a higher stall converter is added to work properly.

 

Got a nice set of core parts for porting for $125

643 heads.

 

As you all can see im trying to get parts together slowly. Im pretty sure I want the CC503 Camshaft, if anyone has one used they can sell me that would be great.

My girlfriends cousin will be porting the 643 heads for me. This is what he is doing for me.
"Half money due upon delivery, Half when finished. Gonna charge you a total of 400 for the porting, valve grinding, competition valve job, milling the heads and re-doing the guides if need be, cleaning and assembly. On top of the 400, you need to supply new valves (preferably Ferrea, Ill give you part numbers), springs to match your cam, retainers and keepers. The viton valve seals I use comes out of the 400 you pay for porting. Im charging you about 2/5ths of the normal rate. Basically to cover my gas to Houston to use the machines to do the work, plus about half my labor. The heads won't be top fuel when I get done- they will flow around 260+ which is enough for 500hp. If I feel generous, Ill get you right around 300cfm which is good to 600hp all motor. More power if boosted of course"

If you all could recommend what parts I need to support the camshaft that would be helpful too. Not too expensive crazy parts though, I dont want to spend a whole lot. Used would be better. Im thinking 1.6 roller rockers for sure and maybe some new LS7 lifters. But what springs and pushrods?

 

Ok I want a CC503 camshaft for sure Ill get that later though.

For the springs Im thinking the Crane 10308-1 set.
Or LT1 VALVE SPRING KIT Includes: SPRINGS, RETAINERS, LOCKS & CUPS. - Alex's Parts Sales but im guessing alot of people have not used these.

Valves for my heads Chevy (16) 305 400 350 327 Stainless Steel Valves 1.6 2.02 ELGIN PERFORMANCE | eBay

Possibly LS7 lifters, and ill wait on pushrods.

If anyone has a the spring kit for sale used that would be great. I want to get my valves and springs in soon so I can send them down to be ported since he will take a while.

 

Just bought the Elgin 2.02 valves and 1.6 exhaust. And the crane 10308-1 spring kit. Now I think all I need is the cc503 camshaft. Pushrods. Lifters (maybe engine only has 100k). 1.6 roller rockers. Maybe a timing chain.

 

I would reconsider the approach you are taking on the heads. More often then not home ported heads are a step backwards and in many cases leaving them STOCK offers better performance. Not to mention once they are ported up by hand most competent porters won't touch them should you choose to make a wiser head porting decision.

 

He is using a shop to port them and he knows what he is doing. He ported his own mustang heads and he's running 640hp and he plans on building a 1000hp engine because he is bored with 640hp so I trust him.

 

He ports Mustang heads, not LT1 643 castings. Just because an engine builder can build "impressive" engines doesn't mean they are a qualified QUALITY cylinder head porter or know the ins-and-outs of LT1 heads. His claim of 300cfm is typical of self-proclaimed know-it-alls who actually don't.

Trust me - you're only going to want to do this once, and for $400 and all of his stipulations you won't be blown away by his results.

 

He is a machinist. He went to school for it and has done other cars. I'm just using his mustang heads as an example. He normally charges
$900 but he is giving me a discount because I'm basically family.