So I just figured out the miss on my new 396; started it up this morning to begin the break-in, and about 5minutes into it the revs start jumping around. So I hop out and notice a good size puddle of coolant (thanks to the poor clamping force of the stock pos clamp on upper heater core line on wp). I quickly hop back in, but before I can turn the motor off, it turns itself off.

I tend to the coolant leak, get it fixed, and now the motor won't fire at all.

So by the looks of it, the top connector of the opti got doused with coolant. Is this all she wrote on my 1 day old GM opti? or will it dry itself out somehow (BTW: 1994 non-vented unit)?

I really, really don't want to have to tear this whole thing apart again; but will do what I must.

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks,

 

Did you dry the outside of the Opti and the wires? Did you try cleaning the Opti harness connector? Did you check the plug wire towers for coolant?

 

Let it sit and dry out and see what happens. Other people have been in a similar boat, they let the opti dry out, and the cars would fire right up.

 

Yes, some people's cars start and run just fine after the opti dries. It seems as if some only take a few hours, while others may take two or three days.

 

the plug has a seal on it so water can not go into the plug... You should pull the connector and clean/dry the plug and connector.

The opti is no toast from a little water or coolant getting on it.

 

I pulled the opti harness connector and hit it with some compressed air slowly drying everything. Dried all spark plug connections, wiped off any residual coolant, or blew it away with air, from all external services.

When you turn it over it wants to fire-up. It fires every few cranks, but never keeps it going. The tac is jumping up like crazy.

I have a feeling I should stop f'ing with it, until it's dried out.

 

sounds like a plan to me

 

also realize if you keep trying to fire it you might foul out your plugs

 

Yep, all the plugs were fouled. I pulled and cleaned them all, again. I think to avoid this next time before I attempt to start it, I'll pull the injector fuses and crank her over a few times. With my DTC codes cleared I should see if the PCM is receiving the Low-Res and High-Res signal like it should. If it's not, it should set the trouble codes again which the scanmaster will pick-up.

Hopefully, this will work.

It's been raining today, so much moisture in the air I don't think this coolant is going to go anywhere for a loooong while.

 

I figured I'd update this a lil' bit so people can perhaps avoid the same problem.

My brand new GM opti is completely dead. I finally tore apart the front of the motor again after 2 days of "drying" alleviated nothing. I pulled off the front cover, and turned the distributor on its side. Coolant slowly started to dribble out the seem. I proceeded to remove the rotor, and various covers to expose the optical sensor and 360* wheel. Coolant moisture was everywhere. I cleaned and dried everything to the best of my abilities. A lil' compressed air did wonders.

After the unit was completely dry I reinstalled, and cranked her over a few times, only to witness the "Low Res" and "High Res" signal trouble codes instantly trip.

I was pretty shocked at how much coolant found it's way into the opti strictly from the upper heater core hose. So, thanks to the stock "spring" hose clamp not yielding enough clamping pressure...I have another GM opti on it's way here.

BTW: Is it okay for me to RTV around the harness connector on a "non-vented" opti? There's a chunck of foam there that allowed all the damn coolant in...I would like to remedy this problem on the next one, however is this purposely placed there to act as some sort of vent?