ok get continiuity readin from blue 30 to either 105 or 220... correct? if its gettin continuity it should connect to computer.... but also here is my connections right now that ive done from you... power to D on c100 powwer to D30 on back of pcm... #9pin adl to cavity E..... whats the wire in the back of the pcm for serial data? maybe thatll fix my problem like the injectors... and plus i looked at a diagram on the ADL i noticed #6 had somethin about the diagnostics... any hunches there?

 

If the injectors are working, and you have fuel, and you have spark(which you claim to have all three), something else is wrong.

How long did the motor set up before you tried to crank it?

How did you check for spark?

 

good lord hope my swap dont go this bad.

hey MADWOLF, how do u know so much about this? you done a lot of swaps or suttin?

i got a few questions myself. i'll create a post some other time soon.

 

checked for spark with a lighted tester hooked to eack spark plug wire... checked injectors with a noid lighted tester... pull off timing cover today not to mention havin antifreeze drip on me the whole time, but double checked timing marks. all were lined up perfect. the motor sat maybe a week before gettin it back in the car.

Ion didnt have a continuity tester but i did notice somethin with the ADL ports... on the 95z28 pin number 8 (top right corner) had a black/white wire in it... is this a ground i might be missing. the 97 doesnt have this wire. and like earlier the 97 key will only turn the motor over... so could this mean the security is still set on the 97 ad that not causin any cranking

also sometimes zooin it over it will backfire through the throttle body... dont think its combution but some sort of back pressure ... but itll only do it a few seconds after the motor stops (not while turnin it over ). i try to give every little detial i can think of that will help.

 

oh gerard14 pm me when you post your thread so when i get it cranked ill try to tell you everything i had to do so maybe thatyll save you a few headaches, but man im tellin you even if everything goes smooth its still a nightmare

 

I would try starting fluid but for not very long. Spray it in there and see if it wants to run. If so, you have a fuel problem. If not, you know it's spark. I know you said you checked those but this will double check.

I had problems with my install too but it wasn't the wiring. I managed to get that part right. My motor had set up so long, every injector was gummed shut. Took me a month to figure that one out. I was checking everything a million times. Anyway, your injectors shouldn't be a problem as they only sat up a week.

Try the starting fluid.

 

injectors are new

 

i wouldnt be concerned with the motor sitting or a physical problem with the motor, as u said it ran fine b4 you pulled it, don't waste your time thinking that it just all of a sudden went bad. thats a crock.

did you do all the mechanical work urself? honestly how mechanically inclined are you as far as mechanics and wrenching go so i get an idea..... I mean what kinda other bigger repair jobs have you done,etc.


so far i got my v6 and v8 motors,k-frames and tranny's ripped out. i got the v8 out in about 2.5 hrs flat. i couldnt believe how easy it was.


get back to me

 

ive dont the work myself, but my Dad owns his own mechanic shop for 20 years and hes been supervising makin sure ive done everything correct but ive done 95% of the work

 

yea i had no problems gettin the motors out and in... i just dropped the whole suspension with motor and tranny and that was fairly easy

 

ok so lemme just verify. you got it now so the car is turning over physically when you turn the key. also the fuel pump is running with the motor turning over and the cranking correct?

u got me a little confused on the lock cylinder and key thing.

which year lock cylinder and which year key exactly are you using?

 

fuel is runnin yes... lock cylinder im refferin to what you stick the key in... im usin the 97 key because the 95 wont turn the motor over

 

ya i knew what u meant by lock cylinder, i just was curious what year lock cylinder is in the column, the 95 cylinder or the 97 cylinder. i'm guessing its the 95 lock cyl and key you are using?

 

nope 97... tried the 95 cylinder and key. it would turn everything on but wouldnt turn over the motor... only the 97 key and cylinder will turn the motor over

 

I got a 95 motor myself. i'm putting it into a 94 v6. i'm also adding all power accessories which my 94 didnt have along with cruise control. plus i gotta convert this 95 z28 over to a t56 standard as well. fun fun fun.

apparently you can do a motor swap and not have to swap keys and lock cylinders if you leave the VATS module alone it seems? i guess its not the computer itself that recognizes the resistance in the key its the module. seems it must be that way if your 95 key and lock cyl wouldnt work.

why do people say u gotta do a vats bypass then