Well, ya, sorta. I'd bead blast, and clearcoat it. Rear end cover looks good that way.

Hate to technical in this post, but not sure 'bout the heat factor, whether anything coated on intake is superior to raw aluminum for heat dissipation.

 

I wish it had been closer to about what headers are... about 1% per 100 bucks on a stock motor anyways, but I can completely understand why its not...

 

Cool... a different viewpoint. You know where I stand on this arnie (posted in Advanced Tech here recently) so I'd like to hear where you're coming from. Never learned anything from anyone who agreed with me.

-Mindgame

 

i think a thin wrinkle coat black would be sweet....ferrari does it on their 8000 rpm engines so it cant hold too much heat in the intake..

 

I think people get to hung up on price and dollar amounts. I mean this isn't meant for a bolt on car. There are many cheaper things to do to gain power before dropping the dime on a custom intake. This is meant for gaining that last bit, especially in the n/a field. Boost or n2o you just add more, you can't do that here. If you want to make more power n/a, things start costing a lot...

 

Looks damn good! Is that a Stealth Ram base?
Steve...

 

Well said. Basically for someone looking to eek that last bit out of the head/cam route.

I'm curious, say someone had a good set of heads, and a custom cam. How much would this intake possibly throw off the custom cam?

 

will there be any comparison to a Hogan intake?
they are about the same dollar amount $2500+

 

That's true, but even for those who don't sweat a forged/FI 383 build, the cost is still pretty steep, and I never suggested it was meant for anything else other than a max effort engine. It is obvious that its application is intended for a max effort N/A engine, and more power to you (no pun intended ).

I'm very interested in seeing some test results.

 

If memory hasn't failed completely, recall in original thread, when this ? was asked, there probably won't be a comparo with an oem intake, let alone any other aftermarket.

 

Did a quick search of relevant threads back to a month ago, wasn't able to find much in the way of intake coating responses, other than chocolate covered pickles, so not sure what you stated. Anyway, sure silver and black are good heat 'radiators', but wonder (no scientific data, just wonder) how non specific heat conducting coatings would inhibit this, compared to a bare surface. In reality, with the thickness of the coating (paint) used, may be a pointless/none issue, not worth the concern.

 

The cam needs to compliment the entire intake system. If the runner lengths change, the intake tuning changes and the valve timing needs to change. Probably the optimum cam for the system would take into account the intake runner length, which is significantly different on the BRE ProRam from the LT1/4.

My advice would be to have a cam designed which takes into account the manifold runner length, flow, plenum volume, head flow an port volume and the vehicle. It would depend on what cam you have. There's a good chance it would be close to optimum. It would then be your choice is a new cam would be worth the $.

My gut feeling, after seeing and measuring the ProRam manifold, would be that it needs slightly MORE cam than an LT1/4 manifold. The good news it that most people, IMO, overcam their engines, so maybe the cam you have would work. If it were my car, and my Impala SS is looking like a good candidate for a BRE ProRam , I'd get a cam with the manifold.

 

thats why i said it looks STEALTHy...lol

 

Actually designed to work really well between 3000-7000, since a high performance LT1 works in that range in anger.


Anyone with a blower CAN'T have one! I promise, not really worth the cash, I'd rather save my time and your cash and make a LT1/4 intake for you.


LOL I told Ken straight out, it's bright red or black. That's it. I tried the bead blasted and clear powder, looks like cement. aka crap. Black gives about the best performance benefits AND LOOKS GOOD! If we wanted to spend more time and money I would have made it a air gap with the part below the runners made out of phenolic, still might do that too one.

Problem is that you still have to setup a hogan to fit under the hood, bolt up to the fuel system, run a throttle cable bracket, fuel lines, and vacuum and PCV connections, those parts are what adds to the $1800 projected price before. As I said this is for a intake which will bolt in, making the customers job installing the package/motor/intake a ton easier.



Well anyways Ken should see the intake and heads/cam in person on Thursday.

BTW not commenting on the casting it started from, but it was the best canidate I could find to start with, still was more work than I planed on it being but it was much better than doing one from scratch. If that was the case I would have pulled out the epoxy and carbon cloth and gone at it rather than have a heat conducting sheetmetal deal. Besides the best way to do a sheet metal takes a CNC mill and 8 blocks of Al to carve out the runners.

Bret

 

Oh man... my car would LOVE that intake given it's RPM needs! I can also see the DFI/FAST cars responing well to that intake given the fact that they've eliminated the 7K computer barrier. Once again, nice work man!
Steve...