My New BRE ProRam
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 309
From: Detroit
Re: My New BRE ProRam
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Actually designed to work really well between 3000-7000, since a high performance LT1 works in that range in anger.
it was still a pretty good guestimate for just lookin at it...
i make the "half sheet metal intakes" from ltx castings for turbo and supercharged guys (being a supercharged guy myself)....them engines love big plenum short runners...
i very much like the idea/route you went with and hope that it performs to all of your standards.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,827
From: Waynesboro, PA
Re: My New BRE ProRam
Originally Posted by SAR2K
Oh man... my car would LOVE that intake given it's RPM needs! I can also see the DFI/FAST cars responing well to that intake given the fact that they've eliminated the 7K computer barrier. Once again, nice work man!
Steve...
Steve...
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Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 2,407
From: Windsor, Canada: Home of the FASTEST LT1 & LS1 6 spds :)
Re: My New BRE ProRam
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
Actually designed to work really well between 3000-7000, since a high performance LT1 works in that range in anger.
Anyone with a blower CAN'T have one! I promise, not really worth the cash, I'd rather save my time and your cash and make a LT1/4 intake for you.
LOL I told Ken straight out, it's bright red or black. That's it. I tried the bead blasted and clear powder, looks like cement. aka crap. Black gives about the best performance benefits AND LOOKS GOOD! If we wanted to spend more time and money I would have made it a air gap with the part below the runners made out of phenolic, still might do that too one.
Problem is that you still have to setup a hogan to fit under the hood, bolt up to the fuel system, run a throttle cable bracket, fuel lines, and vacuum and PCV connections, those parts are what adds to the $1800 projected price before. As I said this is for a intake which will bolt in, making the customers job installing the package/motor/intake a ton easier.
Well anyways Ken should see the intake and heads/cam in person on Thursday.
BTW not commenting on the casting it started from, but it was the best canidate I could find to start with, still was more work than I planed on it being but it was much better than doing one from scratch. If that was the case I would have pulled out the epoxy and carbon cloth and gone at it rather than have a heat conducting sheetmetal deal. Besides the best way to do a sheet metal takes a CNC mill and 8 blocks of Al to carve out the runners.
Bret
Anyone with a blower CAN'T have one! I promise, not really worth the cash, I'd rather save my time and your cash and make a LT1/4 intake for you.
LOL I told Ken straight out, it's bright red or black. That's it. I tried the bead blasted and clear powder, looks like cement. aka crap. Black gives about the best performance benefits AND LOOKS GOOD! If we wanted to spend more time and money I would have made it a air gap with the part below the runners made out of phenolic, still might do that too one.
Problem is that you still have to setup a hogan to fit under the hood, bolt up to the fuel system, run a throttle cable bracket, fuel lines, and vacuum and PCV connections, those parts are what adds to the $1800 projected price before. As I said this is for a intake which will bolt in, making the customers job installing the package/motor/intake a ton easier.
Well anyways Ken should see the intake and heads/cam in person on Thursday.
BTW not commenting on the casting it started from, but it was the best canidate I could find to start with, still was more work than I planed on it being but it was much better than doing one from scratch. If that was the case I would have pulled out the epoxy and carbon cloth and gone at it rather than have a heat conducting sheetmetal deal. Besides the best way to do a sheet metal takes a CNC mill and 8 blocks of Al to carve out the runners.
Bret
nice work, i am sure it took a fair bit of time to complete! i am sure once you get the next few made the process will become easier! oh and my motor is sportin' AFR227's
Banned
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Re: My New BRE ProRam
Steve,
Yeah you might even see some gains with more runner length!
As for the strokers.....
there is a 383 getting one soon, and a 396 I am building from the crank up that is a sleeper/driver that I want to make big power with that will get one too. I want to have some 450+ rwhp HR cars out there for the LS1 guys like me to look at and be scared of.
Bret
Yeah you might even see some gains with more runner length!
As for the strokers.....
there is a 383 getting one soon, and a 396 I am building from the crank up that is a sleeper/driver that I want to make big power with that will get one too. I want to have some 450+ rwhp HR cars out there for the LS1 guys like me to look at and be scared of.
Bret
Banned
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Re: My New BRE ProRam
Originally Posted by taner
i'll volunteer my stroker as a demo vehicle
nice work, i am sure it took a fair bit of time to complete! i am sure once you get the next few made the process will become easier! oh and my motor is sportin' AFR227's
nice work, i am sure it took a fair bit of time to complete! i am sure once you get the next few made the process will become easier! oh and my motor is sportin' AFR227's
Best 60': 1.277 Best mph:141.70mph Best N/A Mph: 128.65
9.58@141.70mph N2O/ 10.91@125.30mph,NA 1.44 60'
Fastest m6 F Body, 1st LT1 m6 in the 9's. "
The 227's might make some work, but how many more MPH you need?
Bret
Thread Starter
Advanced Tech Moderator
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,262
From: Nashville
Re: My New BRE ProRam
Originally Posted by jnjspdshop
Any dyno proven horsepower on this intake??? Cause $2500-$3000 seems alot for something that in theory should make horsepower.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 6,518
Re: My New BRE ProRam
Originally Posted by jnjspdshop
Any dyno proven horsepower on this intake??? Cause $2500-$3000 seems a lot for something that in theory should make horsepower.
Seems to me that runner length is a pretty proven theory in making NA HP. When is the last time you made 650hp on the engine dyno with a 383 and LT1 castings NA?
Ken will get it on soon enough, if anyone should be hyper about seeing gains it should be me. I'm not going to rush him, I did my job he will get it all installed and tuned and keep us informed of the results when they come. That will be a whole new thread when it gets done anways. This is a thread for the guys who wanted to see what this thing looked like, that is all.
Bret
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 368
From: Indianapolis, IN
Re: My New BRE ProRam
Comparing the Hogan's sheetmetal LT1/LT4 intakes to the BRE intake, does this one have longer/shorter/same length runners? Is it expected to pick up power in the same RPM range as a Hogan's intake or at a different RPM? I'm curious because I will be eventually replacing my LT4 intake with something that allows my AFR heads to breath better and if the price on this piece is the same approx. as what a Hogan's intake would cost, I was wondering which applications each are suited more towards or are they intended for the same application? I realize that the Hogan's intake is customizable and can be had in different runner lengths but just as a standard comparison.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 2,407
From: Windsor, Canada: Home of the FASTEST LT1 & LS1 6 spds :)
Re: My New BRE ProRam
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
"1996 Camaro SS Harshaw Racing Engines 399 m6 FULL BMR suspension
Best 60': 1.277 Best mph:141.70mph Best N/A Mph: 128.65
9.58@141.70mph N2O/ 10.91@125.30mph,NA 1.44 60'
Fastest m6 F Body, 1st LT1 m6 in the 9's. "
The 227's might make some work, but how many more MPH you need?
Bret
Best 60': 1.277 Best mph:141.70mph Best N/A Mph: 128.65
9.58@141.70mph N2O/ 10.91@125.30mph,NA 1.44 60'
Fastest m6 F Body, 1st LT1 m6 in the 9's. "
The 227's might make some work, but how many more MPH you need?
Bret
answer: All I can get
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 222
Re: My New BRE ProRam
Originally Posted by SStrokerAce
If you are going to be critical at least spell it right.
Seems to me that runner length is a pretty proven theory in making NA HP. When is the last time you made 650hp on the engine dyno with a 383 and LT1 castings NA?
Ken will get it on soon enough, if anyone should be hyper about seeing gains it should be me. I'm not going to rush him, I did my job he will get it all installed and tuned and keep us informed of the results when they come. That will be a whole new thread when it gets done anways. This is a thread for the guys who wanted to see what this thing looked like, that is all.
Bret
Seems to me that runner length is a pretty proven theory in making NA HP. When is the last time you made 650hp on the engine dyno with a 383 and LT1 castings NA?
Ken will get it on soon enough, if anyone should be hyper about seeing gains it should be me. I'm not going to rush him, I did my job he will get it all installed and tuned and keep us informed of the results when they come. That will be a whole new thread when it gets done anways. This is a thread for the guys who wanted to see what this thing looked like, that is all.
Bret
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,462
From: smog zone adjacent to a great lake
Re: My New BRE ProRam
It would be helpful to the posters of the more recent posts, to start at the beginning of this thread, where the 'ground rules' for this intake, were established. The questions/posts lead me to believe that has not been done.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 292
From: Philly, PA
Re: My New BRE ProRam
HAHA...alright ladies, calm down....
Anyway, Ken did you get my PM back to you then about your fuel rail question? There is parallel post going on in LT1 tech, and I just sent the kid a huge email back, he had a bunch of questions, although he already has some of the parts at his house...
Luckily, he found some cheaper options, for example: Instead of an Aeromotive Y-block for the feed line to split in 2 (and then of course have to use 3 fittings to accomodate the 6 or 8AN line from the stock 10AN), he said there is a NOS Y-block for only $20 that all 3 bungs are 6AN as is...which would probably be ideal imo for a 350/383 street setup, especially with how the BRE PRORAM is setup, fuel needs, etc....no??
Let me know if you have any ideas about this, or if you are scrapping the idea...Thanks
Anyway, Ken did you get my PM back to you then about your fuel rail question? There is parallel post going on in LT1 tech, and I just sent the kid a huge email back, he had a bunch of questions, although he already has some of the parts at his house...
Luckily, he found some cheaper options, for example: Instead of an Aeromotive Y-block for the feed line to split in 2 (and then of course have to use 3 fittings to accomodate the 6 or 8AN line from the stock 10AN), he said there is a NOS Y-block for only $20 that all 3 bungs are 6AN as is...which would probably be ideal imo for a 350/383 street setup, especially with how the BRE PRORAM is setup, fuel needs, etc....no??
Let me know if you have any ideas about this, or if you are scrapping the idea...Thanks