Jon, after looking through your website, I took notice of your brake duct setup. Is it efficient coming from the front corners? Was going to be running mine off the air dam since there is more "air pressure" there. Many of the LS1 guys perfer to run off the front or air dam due to little air pressure there is at the front corners or we would see more of them running the ducting from the fog light.

Good looking setup, just don't find it efficient.

http://home.earthlink.net/%7Ejonaa/Brakeducts.html

Also, regarding this...

http://www.jonaadland.com/Z28/Z28/Camdyno.JPG

Just cam & headers, your heads were not ported That's the best I've seen just from a cam and headers

...and those brakes, they are truly a work of art

 

A warning light would be a given with an electric pump but the bigger concern is even when working perfectly it just won't keep up for continuous WOT running above 4000 RPM--and that after you find this out the hard way you will have gotten a timing chain that won't work with the stock pump making it a PITA to go back. That's why I'm trying to give you fair warning now.

On the brake ducts: There's a difference between efficiency and total output. If you do some research on NACA Submerged Ducts you'll find that they are very efficient. They don't have to be in a really high-pressure area in order to "suck in" quite a bit of air as opposed to a ram-air type scoop--that's not how they work. The amount of air they can take in vs. the drag they cause (another measure of efficiency) is quite impressive.

That said, mine aren't going to flow as much air as large ram-air scoops mounted in the air dam. It was a compromise. I scrape the air dam all the time at my ride height in daily driving, and the last thing I wanted to have to worry about at the track was ripping them off and/or packing them full of gravel every time I go off track a little (like this).

Also, once I start getting serious about aero on this thing, I'll no longer have an air dam anyway.

Yup, that dyno is with 100% stock heads. Just wait until I get some ported ones here in a few months....

 

Got the LT4 chain going in, so I'm safe to swap back if electric water pump does prove incompatiable w/ my wants "if" I do go w/ the electric wp.

Yea, I went ahead and googled it and the first site I came too...

linky

...seemed to be pretty informative. An added bonus looks to be a reduction in drag Still makes me a bit weary of cutting into the front end of my car though I see what you mean about the gravel, I thought about putting a screen up, but that wouldn't stop the large amounts of finer elements from finding their way to the rotors.

What cam are you running? Would love to put down that type of numbers, but doubt that is possible for me w/ stock heads and meeting smog requirements here in Cali

BTW, love that vid of you working the Ferraris

 

I'm running a custom cam from Bret Bauer. CA emissions? Well, anything's possible I suppose but realistically toning it down a notch or two might be wise. You can go a fair amount bigger than the cam you listed though.

Glad you liked the video.

 

Well, things are obviously running behind schedule, but it's almost together. Thanks to classified section here, have achieved many of the parts I've needed for the motor, such as the roller rockers, pushrods, headers, injectors, and clutch plate which have been purchased thru members here on CZ28

Here's a few pics, there are freakin huge, meaning they haven't been shrunk.

Heads getting torqued down

LT4 timing chain assembly purchased thru Dal

Another view of the timing chain assembly

...and now w/ the cover and opti installed Opti was purchased thru Dal also

Intake manifold and RRs installed

...and the headers Got them brand new from a member here on the board Should get them coated, but I've put to much money into the car already

Here's the back of the intake manifold, really gooped the sealant

Got the motor and the tranny bolted together, hopefully get that dropped into the car tonight.

Quick question, on the Edelbrock headers, we want to weld the new piece to the y-pipe w/ the motor out of the car. Does the angle change much w/ the connection of the headers and y-pipe?

 

That pretty much has to be done in the car to get the angle correct. I did it on a friends car once, he welded it out of the car and had nothing but problems getting it to seal right. What made you choose those headers? He picked up 2rwhp with them over stock manifolds..

 

Budget, wanted the JBAs

 

LT1's don't have any weaknesses, no achilles heel. They run forever and take beatings every time they're driven. They're easy to work on, tons of space in the engine bay, and I take my family on road trips regularly with mine breathing primarily through an N20 tube and don't take off with anything less than 6,000 rpm clutch dumps through a stock 10-bolt rear end wrapped with 10" slicks soaked in VHT.

 

Noticed you got the CSI waterpump, how did you get it in the housing w/o cutting the ears?

 

You have to make small radiuses in the housing itself to fit the pump. I filed off the ears the first time around, and then had a leaking pump. Those ears are there for a reason (as I found out the hard way). There are mounting screws inside the ears. If you take this chance, and it leaks, CSI will NOT warranty a new pump for you.