What do you mean effective duration? .05" lift? Some people actually think rrs can change duration. While I can see the valve staying open longer past a certain point of lift, it won't stay open any longer from the start to the finish of the ramps.

 

RRs could change duration if you were considering it from valve open to valve closed rather than measured as-is ground into the cam, or with the intended rocker arm ratio.

(I am talking about duration @ .050")

If you were to increase the ramp rates your .050" duration would eventually converge on your advertised duration as ramp angle approaches 90 degrees. (IE impossible ramp angle or infinity:1 ratio rockers)

 

Yea, 99% of them don't realize these cars can actually handle quite well

 

That is what I am talking about. I have seen some people that actually think the valve opens sooner and closes later when you increase ratios. Can a jump from 1.6 to 1.7 actually make a difference in hp when considering the increased duration after .05" lift?

 

do u know what a 2 bolt main is?

 

No /sarcasm

I'm assuming you're still referring to the thread's original topic

 

Cliff notes: What are things that should be replaced during a rebuild for a car used quit a bit for road racing

i read that and thinking how i'm doing the rebuild and the topic's name (lt1 weaknesses) i said the 2 bolt is weak

 

But those of us who do, sure have fun don't we?

A couple things:

Durability. Proven quantities.

I don't know of anybody who has used the Scorpions in a roadracing environment long enough to prove their worth. I do know of some who have gotten rid of them after "less than desirable" results. I'd rather have steel anyway at the temps they're likely to see. Comp Pro Mags are my choice here. I'd much rather get a cam with more lift than use 1.7's. Your valvesprings will thank you. Don't go cheap there either.

Forget the electric waterpump. That will save you the all the trouble of multiple overheating problems at the track and having to convert back to stock. Put that money into something that will actually do you some good--like an oil cooler.

 

I have had the pleasure of many open track days here in sunny California and still had a dependable reliable car during the week.That ended when #5 & #6 rod bearings spun @ Laguna Seca in Feb. What I have learned since is:

#1 The Canton pan #15242T will not fit a '97 Camaro with dual cats. The sump on the left side has to be cut off at a 45 degree angle-eleminating the low oil pressure sensor and about 1/2 quart of capacity. Then using a block of wood hammer the curve from the tray to the sump to clear the steering rack.

QUESTION: Is their a electric water pump setup that works well for a street/ track car???

 

Not that I know of. A good SBC pump will do in the 130-140 gpm range at 6000 RPM. And it won't consume any more power than an electric that could pump that much (if such a thing existed). And a blown fuse isn't going to cause a cooked engine.... Our stock pump may not be that good, but at 6000 RPM it's a hell of a lot better than the available electrics (if you're going to stay in it for more than 12 seconds and actually need it to cool the engine).

 

Jon-

I need to change to an electric pump because of a disintegration of the water pump drive gear. This gear on the back of the cam timing sprocket meshes with a small gear on the water pump shaft (as you probably know since this is the factory design). With only 1000 miles since the rebuild I am on my second one and this after replacing everything including the timing set, the water pump shaft w/gear and the water pump. I drained the oil yesterday and their were those telltale metal filings on the drain plug. I have spent hours on the phone with Wayne @ Cloyes and I don't know what else to do.

Jon- I hear what you are saying but I hope their is a electric setup that will suffice. I will take my question to the "road racing" forum and see what comes up there.

 

Are you running the ED LT4 setup? Are you replacing the waterpump drive gear with the hardened one?

 

The first setup was the Cloyes High Perf. aftermarket kit #9-3151 for $376.92 with the new waterpump drive gear pressed on my OEM shaft. What I have now is the E.D. timing kit #12370835 (from G.M.) with a brand new water pump shaft with the gear pressed on (#10219554) and a brand new water pump ($$$). This is a nightmare and I want it to be over. I have changed everything on the front of this engine that has anything to do with the water pump drive.
Cloyes said they did not find anything wrong with my first setup but refunded my money through the Parts Distributor. As far as I know they are the only manufacturers of this Sprogear since it is such a specialized process and limited demand. What happened on the first setup was the wearing away of the gear on the back of the cam sprocket. It looked like it had 500,000 miles on it. I had metal in the oil showing up after 50 miles on the rebuild. The gear that it meshed with on the water pump shaft looked fine.

 

Thank you for the advice

...and yes, there is an oil cooler going in already

More on regarding the Elec. waterpump, I'll be having my roommate wire up a warning system if the elec. waterpump does fail. Plus I have a perfectly good stock waterpump I could easily jump back to if I find the elec. not suitable. Which sounds like that may be the case after reading this...

That sounds like enough time to banana shape my heads again

I've had this electric waterpump laying around for about 2 years, but after hearing all the negative feedback regarding it, selling it sounds like the best option

 

So the ill reality is, there is no pan that fits the 96-97 Fbodies suitably.

One day I plan to take atleast a few laps around that course and be able to drive my car home afterwards 5 hours south