I did a search and have found a world of conflicting opinions.

The motor has become a part of an unexpected rebuild due to a blown headgasket. The car sees a lot of road racing, so my goal in the rebuild is to make sure I cover all the LT1 weaknesses. The car will also be tuned by a highly recommended engine builder fron North Carolina who will be here in Cali on the weekend of the 29th(linky ), so the goal is to get this car done by then.

What I've seemed to discover, many of you are running ARP bolts on the main, but what I'm unsure about, is whether it is more appropriate to go to a 4 bolt, is that possible? With my application and use, is it needed?

Also, who are some of the ppl I can turn to for an oil pan where I won't suffer from oil starvation. Is Canton my only alternative?

Are rods that big of a deal on swapping on a mildly built motor, but one that sees quit a bit of road racing?

A list of mods that have been purchased or awaiting purchasing (please keep in mind, I'm trying to keep my budget quit low and more willing to put my money towards proper tuning):

• Comp Cam 212/218 (a cam my roommate had sitting in the garage, works well w/ stock applications, especially ones w/ stock exhaust manifolds )
• Isky valve springs
• 1.6 RRs (still awaiting purchasing)
• Heads have already had a valve job and milled so they are no longer banana shaped )
• Injectors (will be going w/ the ford motorsport)
• CSI electric water pump
• oil pressure sensor
• OEM fuel pump (still awaiting purchase)
• Front O2 sensors (still awaiting purchase)
• OEM headgasket set
• OEM head bolts

Should I bore .030 over if not needed once the shop sees the block tomorrow afternoon or Wednesday morning? Will more then likely just go w/ hypereutetic (sp?) pistons again (I'm working on a budget )

I apologize if some of these questions are stupid or lack proper knowledge, I'm still learning about this motor build-up stuff, I'm just a suspension guy

Cliff notes: What are things that should be replaced during a rebuild for a car used quit a bit for road racing

 

In my opinion, the LT1 doesn't have any more weaknesses than any other 350 engine. Perhaps the only weakness is the fact that there aren't very many head/intake options available to us. Yes, the heads can be ported to work very well, and the intake can be fitted with a larger throttle body and flow pretty well but as for bolt on parts, we are somewhat limited. You have no need for 4 bolt mains given the cam you are running. That cam is really only good to a max of 6000 rpm or so. Plus, the rods you have with ARP bolts will be fine for your application. Stock rods and bolts see 6500 rpm in my engine every week at the track. As far as the bore goes, only bore if you need to. If piston to wall clearance is over .006, you need a bore. Engines typically make more hp when the engine is "loose" but more than that is a bit excessive. I would suggest new valvesprings when you install the 1.6 rockers and make sure you use the LT4 module. A good tune will be your best friend too from Ion MADZ. I wouldn't use those injectors either, the stock ones are plenty for your setup.

R

 

Weakness = spark distribution.

 

If yo have the cash get the block squared and add some 4 bolt main caps, will really help it out. A 30 overbore would not weaken it, but would help the breathing. The only true weakness I have seen is like said the ignition system, the heads have almost limitless option and potential, the intakes flow great and massaged flow greater.

 

Yea, the cam is very mild

I purchased new valve springs and chromomely pushrods, so I think I'm covered in that regards.

and what do you mean by LT4 module, sorry for my lack of knowledge

 

LT4 knock module it's less sensitive then the LT1 module.

 

Alright, thanks

 

Since we have such high compression in these engines 10.5 to 1, GM installed a knock sensor to detect pre-ignition for those who want to use cheap gas. The computer pulls timing advance out to kill the detonation when "knock" is detected and prevent possible engine damage. When you use roller rockers (I think you said you had some on order) you should use an LT4 knock module that easily plugs into the bottom of your computer. The LT4 was a high performance engine option in 96 and 97 that came with roller rockers from the factory. GM engineers learned that the LT1 knock module was picking up the frequency of the roller rockers and misaking it for "knock". The result was the computer then pulled timing advance out and reduced overall power. They came up with the LT4 module that is less sensitive to the roller rocker frequencies and should be used whenever roller rockers are used to eliminate that problem. I forgot to mention that I agree with an earlier post that the opti ignition is a bit of a weakness. While it is adequate, a crank trigger ignition would bave been much more desirable. I also agree that the heads can be massaged and ported to do about any reasonable power level. It just comes down to how much JACK you want to spend. What I meant by limited options was you can't just go out and buy a pair of Dart Pro1's or World heads complete and race ready for under 1000 bucks. Our options are ported LT1, LT4 heads, AFR heads, TrickFlow, Edelbrock LT1,s or converted smallblock heads. The Edelbrocks are around 1050 a pair but aren't any better than a set of LT1 heads with race-flows or Ferrea 6000 valves and bowl work. The water pump drive off the timing gear is a bit strange too. It tends to wear the front cam bearing down through the babbit pretty quickly. That's why I changed mine when I installed the new cam. Figured it was cheap insurance.

 

I'll go ahead and call around for the knock sensor then, hopefully Dal has them

The heads will remain unmolested and I got a electric water pump, so I should be safe in that regard.

Thanks

 

There are 2 parts to this system: the knock sensor , which is like a microphone mounted on the block; and the knock module , which is a small circuit that plugs into the computer (this interprets the signals from the sensor).

You need the knock module .

 

Thanks

 

Skip the 1.6 RR and get the Scorpion 1.7 RR. More HP and I believe they are cheaper ($220?) than most 1.6's. Just a thought

 

Jerm, You might want to check with someone that knows for sure, but I thought it's been stated before that electric water pumps are not up to stuff when it comes to road racing.
Good luck with your project.

 

I went on the Canton site for an oil pan and came across a few things regarding the oil pan for the 96 LT1 fbody.

Was there any issue in dealing w/ the fitment of the pan?

Last time I checked, larger then 1.6 means I have to get different valve covers

The biggest complaint I hear about them is their reliability, many have experienced them only lasting them 6 months at the most.

BTW, the shop has yet to complete the motor, so I'm going to get the tuning by a local guy that comes highly recommeded.

 

Not with the scorpion 1.7s you don't.