WD-40 is NOT a "good rust penetrant"..... get the real thing.

 

yea , that crap didn't work. EDIT: Got the pulley off ,ended up prying it off with a screwdriver and some rags to keep from breaking it , Fell right ontop of my head , but I'd rather it do that then fall on the ground and crack.

 

Got everything off , put the new dust cap and rotor on, now my opti harness wont line up with the pins due to the dust cap, tried using different angles and wiggling around, looks like it is a hair or two from lining up. any suggestions? EDIT: Ended up having to use the original dust cap in order for the opti harness to line up and plug in. Therefore I had to pull off the rotor again , pull the new dustcap off and put the old one on , reinstall the rotor. Tomorrow I will be putting everything back together, Starting with the waterpump, already got the two gaskets and some permatex water pump and thermo housing gasket maker. I've never done a waterpump before , Do I just put the gasket maker on the w/p then put on the gaskets and bolt it back on? Thanks for all the replies!
Oh yea, I think my problem was the rotor , the second "button" had came loose . Hopefully everything will work out now. any input is appreciated.

 

Got everything back together and the car is still doing the same thing, feels like its missing then smooths out a little as it gets higher in the rpms, Not too long ago I replaced the map sensor and map sensor pigtail, so I thought maybe it wasnt making a good connection, rewired that and it feels a "little" better but its definately still doing it, I could stomp the gas at 40 mph and it wouldnt even downshift, then all of the sudden at a redlight the SES light came on , mashed the gas and the car took off like a rocket..... What the hell? gonna take it to have it scanned tomorrow, dont know what to expect... Also I thought maybe its the driver side o2 since I recently replaced the passenger side, but then again @ WOT the o2's arent being used are they? Any Ideas or suggestions?

 

Good luck getting it scanned. Unless you find a reputable shop, the average joe can't do it. OBD I computer with a OBD II aldl connector.

Second if you suspect anything to do with the closed loop controls like O2s, then simply disconnect one and force the PCM into open loop control. See if the engine runs better then.

 

The missing happens sometimes and then it will go away. When it does miss it does it until 4500 rpms then smooths out... I found the number 7 plug wire laying on the exhaust and it is black, not sure if this could be the problem , its not burnt completely through i dont think, Anyways I moved it out of the way , would this cause the miss, Will I have to replace the plug wire? Could that cause the car to throw an ses light? after I moved the wire out of the way I havent gotten a ses light since. The missing comes and go's but always smooths out at 4500 rpms. What are the symptoms of a bad ICM? Any help is appreciated. EDIT: The car runs like a bat out of hell with the driver side o2 unplugged

 

Well I found two burnt plug wires so far, the number 6 and 7, they werent even touching the headers! Also no Idea how the boot got split like this on the # 7

 

Time to go back to school. Plug wires are the first place you look for misfires. Now you can change them ALL out with the plugs. I assure you at least one plug looks like crap now. This time use tie wraps to hole them where they aren't next to anything. If need be, use shorty plugs and header wrap at the problem areas.

After that is done, then you can focus on the closed loop control problem.

 

The plugs and wires are new, waiting on the number 6 and 7 wire replacement from jegs.I will pull the two plugs when i put the new wires. Why would I need to change them ALL out?

 

ttt

 

Have you carefully examined all the wires and verified that they are not damaged or burned? The fact that you had a problem in such a short period, and managed to crack one of the boots as well would indicate that the install was not as clean as it should have been. If 2 wires are screwed up, there's a good chance more are. Replace only tow and you'll be back here in a couple days asking why its still missing.

 

im sure that they were the only wires burned. Do I really need to pull all the plugs again?

 

Replaced the two burnt wires and changed out 3 of the plugs. Car is running like a champ for the first time since I've had it. Free of hesitation and misfiration ! Oh I also did the ICM cooling mod, though I'm not sure if it helped because I did it at the same time as the plugs and wires. So its fixed in open loop..The car is running better than ever. Its never been smooth like it is now. What If I leave the driverside O2 unplugged? bad mpg? Is the pcm still reading off of the passenger side o2? Im guessing its the original w/129k miles on it , I know I should have replaced them both because I replaced the passenger side about a month ago it smoothed out tremendously,

 

With one of the O2s disconnected, the PCM is open loop control and ignores both O2s. You need to find out what the problem is so you can go back to closed loop control of the fuel/ignition system. There's a reason why OEMs use all of the closed loop system for control.

You will probably need to look at both the O2s signals as well as the fuel trims.