What kinda lifters you using?

 

stock comp replacements..

 

Springs and spring pressure?

 

THEY ARE BEEHIVES.... unless the pushrods are junk and the wrong size along with some rocker and stud problems the springs and cam lobes work fine together. He didn't make the 443rwhp with valve float.

Bret

 

Chill, just asking questions trying to help others out...
What kind of lobes is in this car? How many miles on the set up?
And I dont see that he made 443 with what ever problem there is either

 

They are a special lobe I had designed.... so I'm not giving that out.

He made the 443rwhp before, this is a new problem.

Bret

 

When you guys figure it out, please let me know, it would be nice to have some follow up.

 

well Im using stock length pushrods if I remember correctly.. and comp NSA rockers. Lloyd had said they would work fine. I really dont see it being valve float being that the power is not dropping off..

 

This is a good question, must have gotten lost in the Bert rampage.

10k+ miles or very little miles?

Did you notice this issue after doing more mods or has the car been the same from one dyno session to another?

You got a way to log the car? What does the MAP/RPM/MAF/Spark Advance do at this point?

EDIT: I have re-read all post.

Start with the easy stuff, take the MSD box off and see if that helps or hurts. if it helps then rebuild the box, if it hurts then I would look at possible plug gap. What compression is this set up? Double check all grounds for anything PCM/MSD related.
Have you set up a Fuel Pressure gauge to see if the FP is dropping out at this point?
Check all plug wires to be sure non have gotten burnt.

I still say a log file would be helpful. did someone do some additional tuning and this start? Could they have "fatfingered" a number? This happens at times and is tough to find.

With that list you have some work to do, it sucks for sure but this is what you have to do, we can not just say replace this and all your problems will be fine, it dont work that way.

 

I've seen some variance in the BEEHIVES and when running them on edge on a moderate to aggressive cam, they sometimes dont agree.

 

I will try to datalog the car, and look it to the file. It just sucks, because I really dont have time to put the car on the dyno everytime to check to see if its missing up top. This SUCKS!..

 

You shouldn't have to throw it on the dyno to find the miss... especially if you get the same miss when you drive around. Drive around with the datalogger running and drive it in the miss so there is some data as to what is happening.

Shon has some good advice, follow that.

Another thing to test.... take a rocker arm off a cylinder and paint the tops of the valve tips with a sharpie and then reinstall the rockers. Run the motor or turn it over and then take a picture of the pattern that it leaves... if you have to get farther away from it to get it in focus DO SO and then e-mail it over to me. The stock length pushrods might be the wrong length... this is a simple thing to check so might as well do that. I've rarely found that stock length pushrods on a setup with head or block work was the correct length.

Don't worry about the beehives, I actually know what they can and can't do and how to make them work. If people actually understood what aggressive and non aggressive cam lobes where then they could make some ASSumptions to how the world works.

I've had your lobes and spring setup run to 7500rpm on a hyd roller without float or bounce, so I'm 100% sure it's not that either.

Bret