Doing LE2 heads, cam, intake and installing all of the bolt-on`s I have been collecting on my 97 Z. Was looking into the LTCC kit for it`s features such as two step and the timing retard. Today I tore into my opti and discovered it has a non Mitsubishi sensor. So my question is has anyone had any luck with the off brand sensors or should I source out a Mitsubishi sensor ?

 

The Chinese rip-off sensors have quality issues. But I'm not aware of the ability to buy a new Mitsu sensor by itself.

 

From my research thats what I found also. Guessing I would need to source a used one or run the china junk that I have. Does taking the high voltage out of the opti help the life span of the cheep sensors?

 

Don't see why it wouldn't help the life span.

 

The sensors are often blinded by rust, particularly in the non-vented units. But that rust is caused by the ozone from the high voltage discharge. So that problem goes away.

A problem with the rip-offs appears to be sloppy construction. One of our members took apart the module from a no-name Opti, and found the soldered joint for the ground wire had cracked. After running for 15 minutes the crack would open up from the heat soak, and the engine would stall. He was able to repair it. Whether removing the high voltage will decrease the heat soak is an unknown, at least to me.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...-bench-881339/

Sort of a crap shoot - they won't all fail, but the probability of failure would seem to increase. And there's nothing to say a Mitsu wouldn't fail. I've had good luck with a factory Opti, running it without the high voltage for 14 years..... not a lot of miles on it though, but it has demonstrated an ability to survive 8,000 RPM.

 

Fair enough but even a Delco/Delphi opti will fail if the solder job is bad on the connectors. Then again, they are probably built by a $10 million dollar robot instead of some guy named Chin.

 

Thanks for all the input everyone. Going to order up the system and use my existing pickup.

 

Sorry to hijack but when using the LTCC do I need to remove the rotor from the opti or just leave it in there and should I put vacuum caps on the spark plug wire terminals of the opti, thanks?

 

I just unplugged everything.

 

The OEM vented Opti requires the rotor/screws to retain the slotted shutter wheel for the cam position sensor. On the OEM unvented units, the shutter wheel was tack welded in place, but still sandwiched between the rotor and the rotating support. I left everything in place (95 vented unit). No need to cap the plug and coil wire terminals.

Aftermarket, or even current Delco or Delphi units may be different than OEM with regard to holding the shutter wheel. Honestly do not know.

 

The only reason to remove the rotor is to avoid it shattering at high RPM. I would carve it down to a "nub" and leave it in so that the shutter wheel is properly clamped.

Bob

 

I never capped the plug wire towers on my car, its up to you.

Bob

 

No worries, I want to learn and read any suggestions on the install.

 

If you know a competent machinist it would not be difficult for him to machine a spacer to replace the rotor.

 

Thanks for the input guys I am building a new all forged 383 and I got a great deal on a new MSD opti so I too your advice and just loctited the rotor screws. I will cap off the coil and plug wire openings just to keep junk out. I'm also going to get the EFI Connections coil brackets, but which coils are you guys using? I've heard the LS2 or LS3 coils are the ones to use, any advice?