I don't know about hesitation, but my '96 Z(68k) just doesn't jump when I mash it, I wouldn't really call it a hesitation. Is this what you guys are chattin about? Sorry, I probably sound like an idiot to you guys, hey, I'm kinda new at this!! Shred ya layda!!



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The Lunitik
1996 White Z-28
All Stock
Never ran

 

My car has the exact same problem, it just doesn't jump off the line like it used to. I would love to know what is causing this too!

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1badblack93Z
K&N cold air,
Jet Stage II
Borla Y-pipe
Morflo 3" CAT

Yamaha Vmax
No mods: That would be crazy!!!!!

Kawasaki Ltd....owning it is just crazy! POS

 

if you havent changed your fuel filter then CHANGE it. unfortunately i have already changed mine and my problem persists. unless your car actually drops RPMs, it wouldnt sound like an ignition problem IMO.


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1997 Z28 M6
T-tops, chrome rims, all options, SLP Dual/Dual, cutout, !CAGS, FIPK, LT4 KM, Air Foil, TB bypass, pro 5.0, TR55s, OBD1, !EGR, !AIR, CSI waterpump, 160* thermostat, 1LE intake elbow, PCM tuning by, www.PCMFORLESS.com , taylors, singe-cat SLP shorties minus the cat!

 

I changed the fuel filter right after I did the plugs and wires. It still has the hesitation problem. I don't think it is the fuel filter.

Also, if you just hammer it to the floor when it is hesitating, it will backfire a little pop.

 

Count me in too!! I have a hesitation just off idle and it stumbles at high RPM under load. I have changed plugs, wires, fixed header leak, coil, fuel filter, added an ignition box, and others that I have forgotten.

I am now going to try the intake manifold gasket. I know it is leaking and I suspect that it is fouling spark plugs by leaking oil down the intake port and bleeding air into the system after the MAF. That's the theory. I'll let everyone know the results as soon as I can.

If this doesn't work, a new LS1 car maybe my next solution. Sorry, but I've been tracking this problem for months with no luck. Car runs worse now than when it was stock. GRRRRRRRRR....

Scott

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1997 Z28 MM6 Moroso CAI, Flomaster American Thunder, Taylor, Air Foil, SLP Headers, Crane Ignition, MAF, HPPIII, 4:10's, Summit Girdle, Drilled Rotors,
13.75@ 100.98 MPH
2.055 60'

No New Times With Gears....yet.

 

My car is also doing the same thing. but the idle is messed up also....I have replaced everything that you guys have. Nothing helped at all. I just orderd a computer that is tuned for my car. I will let you know if this helps. If it does not it has to be my cam. I feel your guys frustration. let me know if you find the problem.......

 

how many people with this prob have stick or auto? i have the same prob but i wonder if it's just that my clutch does not want to grab... i have replaced opti, plugs, temp sens, KM, and have the car hooked up to a computer with everything reading normal....

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1995 Firebrid Formula M6: hurst shifter w/ Lou's short stick, !CAGS,!MAF, !TB, K&N FIPK, 1LE intake elbow, Borla catback, LT4 KM, 1300w sound system.

pic: 95 Formula

 

I have an auto. Kinda wish I coulda found a six speed....

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The Lunitik
1996 White Z-28
All Stock
Never ran

 

Auto,

Used to have a smoke show, now I don't even chirp!

 

i have a 6 speed with a centerforce dual friction clutch. I my self dont think it is related. but then again i can not find the problem. so who knows

 

how many miles do you guys have on your cars. i have 55,000. i am starting to think that our problem is internal.

 

MY PROBLEM IS SOLVED!!!! Everyone try this if it is occurring after the car has somewhat warmed up. The coil is bolted to a metal bracket along w/ the ESC (electronin spark control. Use a 9/16 deep socket and remove this (you may need to take a bolt out of the air pump too). then w/ a ....very small standard socket. remove the ESC and the aluminum heat sink attached to it. Now take the studded bolts that the coil and bracket were bolted on with and put them back in the head. THEN use two nuts on the outer studs to bolt the coil and grounds to these bolts. This makes a small space between the bracket the coil is on and the head, somewhat reducing heat-soak. Now find to nuts to go on the bolts that go through the ESC and heat-sink and bolt them back together. You can do this temporarily by using some heat-shield tape ONLY around the ESC and the flat surface of the heat-sink, leaving the fins to coil the ESC exposed. Now zip tie the ESC up by the fuel lines (this is within the wires reach, OR cut away some of the factory tape to lenthen the amount you can pull this harness away from the coil harness and move the ESC to a cooler place in the engine compartment. Worked for me and my intermittent code 42.

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95 Black Z28. 13.05/105.5 before following mods.
Complete 3.73 rear end w/ T/A girdle,LT4 HOT cam,springs,1.6 Comp cams RR's. New times to come

 

I just went through this problem with my wifes 2000 blazer, I bet all of you guys have a CAI system or at least an oiled K&N type air filter. Try this take off your MAF and clean the tiny wires inside very carefully with windex and a cotton swab hopefully this will cure the problem. Good luck.

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94Z,A4,FLOWMASTER,HOMEMADE CAI. 72 BIGBLOCK CHEVELLE 11.86@114MPH N/A. 90C1500 GMC MANY MODS,N20,12.47@117. 1930 MODEL A PICKUP ROD 12.86@112, 72OLDS 442 ALL STOCK 14.96@91. 55 AND 36 CHEVYS NOT DONE YET. AND SADDLY MISSED MY 99 C5FIXEDROOF 11.74@126MPH, N2O

 

Screw the windex if you are going to try that. Go to the parts store and buy some electric parts cleaner. It comes in an aerosol can and wont harm the sensor. Windex has water and other $hit in it that probably will do more harm then good.

 

I have a 94Lt1 and I was having the same problem, after spending all kinds of money on all kinds of sheat' I (we) decided to pull off the distributer...it was FILTY and after cleaning it, and replacing all the new parts, (Ohh, we cleaned the opti crappie too) the car ran incredible..no studdering or power loss. Thats my story and Im sticking to it. Good Luck