Thanks Dan & good luck with the install. Let us know how you like them. I'm planning on mine for mid January.

 

The starter tube with the MACs is 3". I ordered a 3" universal cat, so they had to be butt welded together. As I sais earlier, my cat and my off-road pipe have the same flanges, and are the same length, so I can interchange them very easily.

Frank

 

Thanks. I'll keep you all informed.

Dan

 

do these headers hit the floorboards? thats what i herd, just wondering.

 

Nope

Frank

 

Dan,
Just noticed you lived in Saginaw. I am from Clio which is damn close. You will definately have to let us know how you like the headers. I had RK sports on my last z and this time I was thinking about putting the mac's on my 94z vert. Good luck!
Brandon

 

Those are nice lookin. If I ever get shorties again, I will get those.

 

Do those things come with a CAT elminating pipe? It looks like they give you an extra length of pipe to either weld or bolt in to eliminate it. Do you know if it is?

 

I will be installing them this winter and will let you know how it goes. Maybe you can cruise over after it's done if you want to see them in person to decide if they are what you want to get.

Thanks.

Dan

 

They come with the starter pipe that you could weld to a straight pipe. It's there to either weld into one side of a CAT or an ORP(straight pipe).

Dan

 

For some reason I was thinking that you could get a MAC ORP and it would just bolt right up to the y-pipe, at least in all the pics I have seen it looks like thats what happens. Maybe you can get it with a starter pipe as well??

 

.....nice headers! ... although the welds are a little sloppy. Grind 'em down, If the header diameter is 1 3/4" and the pipe has a 1/16th. of an inch of weld sticking out all around it?
Well then your diameter is now 1 5/8th inch's. I was a welder for 15years {structual and pipe} and the jobs that I was on would have run you off for work like that. Although I doubt very seriously that a $24dollar an hour welder is doing the job, some kid is probably only getting $8 bucks an hour. Its not his fault, he just needs some training, the only problem is that once he gets his training then he goes and gets the $24dollar an hour job!
Look for any holes or pits {perosity} at the spots you grind. I'm sure that the welds will hold, they just look sloopy.... In fact thats my next step {headers for my car}. And now that I think about it, I'm glad that I saw this post as when I get my headers I'll order them uncoated, check out the welds, grind down the bad spots
and then have 'em coated.....

Bill...

 

The only reason I would say not grind them is that it defeats the purpose of having the coating. You grind off the coating and that's the place it will start to rust.

 

...yes, very true, it could rust at those spots.Then I would send 'em back, ask them to grind 'em and re-coat them. Where I live rust really isn't a big thing {not at the beach or anything}. My reason for getting my headers coated will be to keep the heat down in the engine bay, not really for rust reasons. Plus I'm not really one to worry about what things look like under the hood. And being on the inside of the headers it will be harder for rust to get to it..... Yeah, that one spot where the wire is just coated over is something, huh? Bill....

 

Yeah, the welding is a little sloppy, but if the performance is there, that's all that matters for me. I also got them coated mainly for temp. If I grind the inside, the rust will probably never see the outside coating anyways, it would have to rust all the way through.

My car never sees salt since I store it winters.

I really like the headers, and having them in hand, the quality looks very nice.

I will remove that wire in the collector though. I'll probably just clip it off.

Dan