Do strokers REALLY run quicker?
Originally posted by Camaro37
My stroker is nothing amazing, I'm just showing what kind of improvement it made for me.
Originally I had a 350 w/ a hotcam and couple of bolt ons, I spun a bearing and built a 383. The only thing I added to the 383 was headers, it's still had same cam, etc as the old 350. Here are the best time/mph I ran with both engines, keep in mind I rarely go to the track and have serious traction problems; so take it easy on the criticisim guys
350 w/ hotcam & bolt-ons
60': 2.19
1/8: 9.0
MPH: 77
383 w/ hotcam, headers & same bolt-ons
60': 2.15
1/8: 8.5
MPH: 87
IMO the power is more in the top end but a good bottom end isn't gonna hurt.
My stroker is nothing amazing, I'm just showing what kind of improvement it made for me.
Originally I had a 350 w/ a hotcam and couple of bolt ons, I spun a bearing and built a 383. The only thing I added to the 383 was headers, it's still had same cam, etc as the old 350. Here are the best time/mph I ran with both engines, keep in mind I rarely go to the track and have serious traction problems; so take it easy on the criticisim guys
350 w/ hotcam & bolt-ons
60': 2.19
1/8: 9.0
MPH: 77
383 w/ hotcam, headers & same bolt-ons
60': 2.15
1/8: 8.5
MPH: 87
IMO the power is more in the top end but a good bottom end isn't gonna hurt.
It seems to me that everyone is saying a 383 will make more power and WILL be faster assuming all other things are equal, but you won't believe anyone. You want me to find a stroker that runs faster than the 350 you mentioned? There many on the internet, I could go dig one up right now, but the main thing is running conditions, driver, and other mods that will separate the 350 times and the 383 times, that why some 350s are faster than 383s.
I dont think no matter what anyone says, he is going to change his mind. He has already made up his mind that it is not better, and cant be proved. Myself, I deceided to go with a 396. I wanted the cubes and the stroker, so I did it. And I cant say I have any times, I am still assembling the moter.
I have made one pass on BFG dr's with a soft 2.0 short time, shifting at 6400 rpm's. I ran a 12.40@118, this is in a M6 that weighs 3555 on SS rims. I also have 100% stock suspension other than the fact that the car has Eibach lowering springs.
The car makes peak power at 6800 rpm's, so you tell me what you think is faster? This is on a prety tight budget build up with ported stock heads.
Oh yea one last thing, this was on a stock 3.42 rear end before the 12 bolt.
The car makes peak power at 6800 rpm's, so you tell me what you think is faster? This is on a prety tight budget build up with ported stock heads.
Oh yea one last thing, this was on a stock 3.42 rear end before the 12 bolt.
I built a 383 for a friend that has the stock top end, up to the cam. Yes this does kill some hp, but he didn't have enough money for the extras. Either way, this car went from running what.. 13.9's to probably low 13's. I can't say for sure exactly what it'll run b/c it spins the tires almost out to the 1/8th mile marker.. It ran 104mph with some improvement comming. If anyone wants to buy him a 12bolt, and some dragradials, We'll see what she can really do :-).
Originally posted by Mindgame
No, consistency does.
If we're strictly talking drag racing (namely bracket racing) then ultimate power output takes a backseat to consistency. So what class are you building for? Then we'll go into specifics there.
From what I gather, you're looking to build a street car that can run good numbers on the weekend. Or is it the other way round??
For the record.... my 401 powered 66 Nova with solid roller cam, 11.8:1 compression, Dart RR heads, TPIS MiniRam, Accel DFI and other goodies would turn consistent ET's of ~10.4 @132 mph with 1.4-ish 60' times.... no power adders. I put about 5k miles a year on that car. I had a 385 cid Vega that was quite a bit faster but wasn't fuel injected and ran low 9's on the juice.... all on 10.5" tires.
So what's the question here??? Can a stroker go fast? I dunno, how fast do you want to go?
I'm expecting my current combination to go low 10's and it's N/A. That's my guesstimate based on my experience with other cars just as fast and faster. So how much power do you think you need??
-Mindgame
No, consistency does.
If we're strictly talking drag racing (namely bracket racing) then ultimate power output takes a backseat to consistency. So what class are you building for? Then we'll go into specifics there.
From what I gather, you're looking to build a street car that can run good numbers on the weekend. Or is it the other way round??
For the record.... my 401 powered 66 Nova with solid roller cam, 11.8:1 compression, Dart RR heads, TPIS MiniRam, Accel DFI and other goodies would turn consistent ET's of ~10.4 @132 mph with 1.4-ish 60' times.... no power adders. I put about 5k miles a year on that car. I had a 385 cid Vega that was quite a bit faster but wasn't fuel injected and ran low 9's on the juice.... all on 10.5" tires.
So what's the question here??? Can a stroker go fast? I dunno, how fast do you want to go?
I'm expecting my current combination to go low 10's and it's N/A. That's my guesstimate based on my experience with other cars just as fast and faster. So how much power do you think you need??
-Mindgame
Frank
I have been racing five years. My car is slow my most peoples standards but I want it to be consistent as I bracket race. I also drive it to and from the track. When the stock bottom end went I had run a best of 12.71 at 107. We put the stroker short block in and ran 11's. I already had a 12 bolt, ET Streets, 700R4, 3600 stall, CNC Heads. The only major change was the shortblock.
To me the difference was really in the sixty foot times which dropped from 1.7's to 1.5's. The increase in torque was very significant.
To me the difference was really in the sixty foot times which dropped from 1.7's to 1.5's. The increase in torque was very significant.
Originally posted by tnthub
The increase in torque was very significant.
The increase in torque was very significant.
Originally posted by LYSFASTZ
I have made one pass on BFG dr's with a soft 2.0 short time, shifting at 6400 rpm's. I ran a 12.40@118, this is in a M6 that weighs 3555 on SS rims. I also have 100% stock suspension other than the fact that the car has Eibach lowering springs.
The car makes peak power at 6800 rpm's, so you tell me what you think is faster? This is on a prety tight budget build up with ported stock heads.
Oh yea one last thing, this was on a stock 3.42 rear end before the 12 bolt.
I have made one pass on BFG dr's with a soft 2.0 short time, shifting at 6400 rpm's. I ran a 12.40@118, this is in a M6 that weighs 3555 on SS rims. I also have 100% stock suspension other than the fact that the car has Eibach lowering springs.
The car makes peak power at 6800 rpm's, so you tell me what you think is faster? This is on a prety tight budget build up with ported stock heads.
Oh yea one last thing, this was on a stock 3.42 rear end before the 12 bolt.
12scndz I believe the 377 is a destroked 400 but it's been a while since I looked it up...
Originally posted by IrocManiac
12scndz I believe the 377 is a destroked 400 but it's been a while since I looked it up...
12scndz I believe the 377 is a destroked 400 but it's been a while since I looked it up...
Originally posted by Josh-'97 WS6
Not in my case. Elected to maintain standard bore size with a 3.75" stroke crank. Felt the upcoming T-Trim Vortech would tax block integrity and wanted to have an overbore or two available in the future.
Not in my case. Elected to maintain standard bore size with a 3.75" stroke crank. Felt the upcoming T-Trim Vortech would tax block integrity and wanted to have an overbore or two available in the future.
Rich Krause
12secZ
I have a question are you simply interested in the quickest et or fastest mph? The car is a whole combination which has been stated, but let's say you stay 355ci and you stated you want to run 10's you will have to spend money on more than just your engine to get there. You will still have to spend money on the proper suspension, rearend, the correct gearing for your rpm range and vehicle weight etc. It's like the old saying goes speed costs money how fast do you want to go? And for 10's you're going to spend plenty.
The other point I want to make is that the head and cam requirements will be different for each engine, heads/cam which are correct for a 355 will both be too small for a 383/396 so that needs to be stepped up as well. But if you are building from scratch I would go with the stroker everytime as well.
The other point I want to make is that the head and cam requirements will be different for each engine, heads/cam which are correct for a 355 will both be too small for a 383/396 so that needs to be stepped up as well. But if you are building from scratch I would go with the stroker everytime as well.
I'm Reminded of a great Statement:
"There's no REPLACEMENT for DISPLACEMENT"
More cubes equals more power. . . Bottom line! but you have to do it right! Call Nu-Tek they seem to have it all wrapped up!
"There's no REPLACEMENT for DISPLACEMENT"
More cubes equals more power. . . Bottom line! but you have to do it right! Call Nu-Tek they seem to have it all wrapped up!
Re: Lets get back to the guys original question...
Originally posted by yorkie
NO, strokers dont always run quicker, there are some 350's out there that will romp some 383's out there.
NO, strokers dont always run quicker, there are some 350's out there that will romp some 383's out there.
no one is saying its the end all determinant as to which is faster here


